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Car starts and runs when cold dies once warmed up
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That’s the only way I know of myself. I think you have a big vacuum leak somewhere causing your issues. 15 inches of vacuum is low. The hvac controls work?
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From what I’ve read, with the cams it would be lower than stock. Not sure how much lower.That’s the only way I know of myself. I think you have a big vacuum leak somewhere causing your issues. 15 inches of vacuum is low. The hvac controls work?
yes, HVAC works. It wasn’t switching off the defrost to the dash vents and I found a vacuum line disconnected from a black canister right behind the glove box. I hooked it back up, and now it switches to dash, but blows very weak out of the dash compared to the defrost (ac also no longer blows cold due to a blown seal in the compressor, but that’s a whole other aggravation). I pulled the stereo and HVAC controls and check all of the vacuum lines. Found nothing out of whack.
once I fix the valve cover, I’ll pull the stereo and hvac controls again and do the smoke test again to see if there is a leak in there. At the same time, I’ll pull the fender liner and make sure the vacuum line to the evap isn’t leaking.
outside of that, I have no clue what else to look at.
Just spitballing but maybe a higher than normal idle would result in lower vacuum coupled with a vacuum leak somewhere.
I had a bunch of issues on the last 00 gt I had. It idled funny and one of the o2 sensors was pegged rich. I did all the tests I could and found a couple things to note. I found that the iat and I think it was the maf were only getting about 3.5v reference while the ect sensor got closer to 5v, where they should all be. I’ve never looked over the wiring diagrams but I assume all share a common signal so something wasn’t right somewhere. I then found the po tapped into an o2 sensor return to power backlighting on a vac gauge. As soon as I removed the wire it idled great again but the o2 sensor still showed the same reading as before. I know it sounds stupid but my point is even if everything looks ok something could still be messed up somehow.
I had a bunch of issues on the last 00 gt I had. It idled funny and one of the o2 sensors was pegged rich. I did all the tests I could and found a couple things to note. I found that the iat and I think it was the maf were only getting about 3.5v reference while the ect sensor got closer to 5v, where they should all be. I’ve never looked over the wiring diagrams but I assume all share a common signal so something wasn’t right somewhere. I then found the po tapped into an o2 sensor return to power backlighting on a vac gauge. As soon as I removed the wire it idled great again but the o2 sensor still showed the same reading as before. I know it sounds stupid but my point is even if everything looks ok something could still be messed up somehow.
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125 Posts
I know there is nothing piggybacked off the O2 sensors. I did have to splice in new connectors for the rear O2s as the kid had no cats and no o2s so he left the connectors hanging and they got beat up while driving. Front O2s we’re fine. I looked over most of the wiring when I was removing and replacing the engine.
I’m currently waiting on a new EGR system to show up.New EGR valve, solenoid, tube and DPFE sensor. The kid removed it and just plugged the EGR valve, and the DPFE sensor is just open to atmosphere. It threw a couple of EGR codes the other day. Instead of having it deleted in the tune, I’m just going to fix it. We have emissions testing here and I don’t want the EGR monitor to show as not ready when the run the OBD scan.
I’m currently waiting on a new EGR system to show up.New EGR valve, solenoid, tube and DPFE sensor. The kid removed it and just plugged the EGR valve, and the DPFE sensor is just open to atmosphere. It threw a couple of EGR codes the other day. Instead of having it deleted in the tune, I’m just going to fix it. We have emissions testing here and I don’t want the EGR monitor to show as not ready when the run the OBD scan.
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125 Posts
Wel, I got the tune revised after datalogging and it seems to have fixed the issue for the most part. I’ve been driving it for a few days and it has stalled once or twice, but that’s it. It sucks, but I can live with that for now.
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125 Posts
I’m on the verge of giving up and selling this car.
i Started getting a couple of codes for EGR. I already knew there was no EGR tube, the nipple on the header was capped and the inlet on the EGR valve was plugged. The solenoid was installed and hooked to electrical and vacuum, and the DPFE was installed and hooked to electrical. The nipples on the DPFE were just open to atmosphere.
I decided I was going to reinstall the EGR system (it was gone when I bought the car), so I bought a new valve, solenoid, DPFE sensor, tube and the pressure lines to the sensor. I installed everything and right off the bat it sounded much better. Idle sounded stout and it never even considered dying. I drove it for a bit, and it started randomly making a popping sound and had a random slight hesitation (like a misfire) when cruising and light acceleration. I drove it to work the next morning and the check engine light came back on. This time it was P0402, excessive EGR flow. My exhaust also smelled funky. I can’t even describe it, it was an exhaust smell I’v never experienced. Even the security guard at work commented on it.
i did some reading and found some troubleshooting tips for the EGR solenoid and the dpfe. One was to probe the solenoid signal wire and at idle, ground the probe. This should cause it to stumble a bit and drop the voltage a bit (cut in half in the video). Voltage dropped from 12.8 to around 10.9, and no change in idle. This was a cheap doorman solenoid I bought on Amazon, so I reinstalled the original one. When I grounded the probe with the original one, I could hear the valve open and the exhaust gas flow through it and it started to stumble, as it should. Voltage dropped to around 8v. I shut it off, put everything up and decided I was going to just go to oreilly and get a new one (Standard ignition brand, not doorman). When I got in it and cranked it, it immediately stalled out again. I cranked it again and it stalled again, 2-3 more times. Eventually, I hit the gas and slowly let off and it held. I went to oreilly and got the new one, installed it in the parking lot. When I cranked it, it stalled again.
I did the same as before and got it to idle, then went for a drive. I drove all over town, spent about 30 minutes. Got up on the highway for a bit, drove through town, hard acceleration, light acceleration. Never stalled and no check engine light.
interestingly, with the new EGR solenoid seemingly functioning properly, isn’t didn’t sound nearly as stout and it feels slightly more sluggish by comparison (could be in my head, it’s not a huge difference).
I’m lost, and incredibly frustrated at this point. So much so I’m honestly thinking of just unloading it and taking a massive loss. We’re selling the house and moving to an apartment, so I won’t have anywhere to work on it. I either need it fixed in the next 30 days, or gone. At this point, I’m leaning toward the latter.
i Started getting a couple of codes for EGR. I already knew there was no EGR tube, the nipple on the header was capped and the inlet on the EGR valve was plugged. The solenoid was installed and hooked to electrical and vacuum, and the DPFE was installed and hooked to electrical. The nipples on the DPFE were just open to atmosphere.
I decided I was going to reinstall the EGR system (it was gone when I bought the car), so I bought a new valve, solenoid, DPFE sensor, tube and the pressure lines to the sensor. I installed everything and right off the bat it sounded much better. Idle sounded stout and it never even considered dying. I drove it for a bit, and it started randomly making a popping sound and had a random slight hesitation (like a misfire) when cruising and light acceleration. I drove it to work the next morning and the check engine light came back on. This time it was P0402, excessive EGR flow. My exhaust also smelled funky. I can’t even describe it, it was an exhaust smell I’v never experienced. Even the security guard at work commented on it.
i did some reading and found some troubleshooting tips for the EGR solenoid and the dpfe. One was to probe the solenoid signal wire and at idle, ground the probe. This should cause it to stumble a bit and drop the voltage a bit (cut in half in the video). Voltage dropped from 12.8 to around 10.9, and no change in idle. This was a cheap doorman solenoid I bought on Amazon, so I reinstalled the original one. When I grounded the probe with the original one, I could hear the valve open and the exhaust gas flow through it and it started to stumble, as it should. Voltage dropped to around 8v. I shut it off, put everything up and decided I was going to just go to oreilly and get a new one (Standard ignition brand, not doorman). When I got in it and cranked it, it immediately stalled out again. I cranked it again and it stalled again, 2-3 more times. Eventually, I hit the gas and slowly let off and it held. I went to oreilly and got the new one, installed it in the parking lot. When I cranked it, it stalled again.
I did the same as before and got it to idle, then went for a drive. I drove all over town, spent about 30 minutes. Got up on the highway for a bit, drove through town, hard acceleration, light acceleration. Never stalled and no check engine light.
interestingly, with the new EGR solenoid seemingly functioning properly, isn’t didn’t sound nearly as stout and it feels slightly more sluggish by comparison (could be in my head, it’s not a huge difference).
I’m lost, and incredibly frustrated at this point. So much so I’m honestly thinking of just unloading it and taking a massive loss. We’re selling the house and moving to an apartment, so I won’t have anywhere to work on it. I either need it fixed in the next 30 days, or gone. At this point, I’m leaning toward the latter.
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125 Posts
And this morning, I got in it to go to work, cranked it and it stalled, 3x. Managed to get it idling, backed out of the driveway and it stalled in the street. Got to the front of the neighborhood and it stalled. I turned around and went back home, it stalled again pulling in the driveway and when I stopped to park it.
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125 Posts
After exhausting every option I could, I've decided I'm pulling the cams and reinstalling the stock cams. If that doesnt solve the problem with it stalling, I'm selling it.
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125 Posts
Stock cams and stock tune went back in amd the car runs fine. Whatever the issue was it was with the cams.
Did you degree the cams? Or just install them straight up? I degreed my cams and my driver side cam was 4 degrees off and passenger cam is straight up. Not a huge amount off but the cams would've been fighting each other the whole time.
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125 Posts
They were degreed, and installed with trick flow adjustable crank gears. I’m truly lost as to what the problem was.
Did you degree them in the engine?
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I bought them from CMS and paid for the degreeing service, so I didn’t personally do it. They came with a card for each cam with the measured specs and the gears were marked with what to set them to. The crank gears were marked as well with the setting on them.
I don’t have the kit to degree them, and it was tight enough just installing them with the engine in the car.
I thought about just resetting them to straight up instead of pulling them just to try it out, but I really didn’t want to go through the effort of basically uninstalling and reinstalling them just to have it still do the same thing, so I just pulled them.
if I keep the car, I’m probably going to build an engine on the side over time. I’ll go a different route with cams if I do, but that is a ways out.
I don’t have the kit to degree them, and it was tight enough just installing them with the engine in the car.
I thought about just resetting them to straight up instead of pulling them just to try it out, but I really didn’t want to go through the effort of basically uninstalling and reinstalling them just to have it still do the same thing, so I just pulled them.
if I keep the car, I’m probably going to build an engine on the side over time. I’ll go a different route with cams if I do, but that is a ways out.
I personally don't like the "degreeing service" because you don't know the exact specs in the engine they use, if your engine jas been decked and heads be cut and theirs haven't then their engine is different as far as degreesing. I know mine are .5 degree off per side but the only way to get then exact is with adjustable cam gears.
Comp cams said that half a degree won't make a difference bur again every single engine is different.
Comp cams said that half a degree won't make a difference bur again every single engine is different.
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At some point, if I keep the car long term, I’ll build another engine on the side to swap in along with a 6 speed. That’s a bit IF. Right now we’re selling the house and moving to an apartment, so im losing my garage. If I build an engine, it would be built in a storage room. And im not 100% sure I’ll have this car still when we move out of
The apartment. We shall see
The apartment. We shall see
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