Can I rebuild my shortblock myself?

New rings require a hone. Best to let a machine shop hone the block if you have never done it before. Many places to get bolts and gaskets. One suggestion is actual from Ford for the bolts.

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cre8d2go said:

New rings require a hone. Best to let a machine shop hone the block if you have never done it before. Many places to get bolts and gaskets. One suggestion is actual from Ford for the bolts.

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Okay, I just drop it off and have it honed and I can do the rest?

You should spend a bunch of time reading how this is done and collecting information. You will need some specialized tools, so factor that into the plan.

Or would you guys not bother with the rings? If they seal fine; just do the bearings? The engine does have over 200K miles on it

I'd buy a done short block and swap everything onto it. But you may want to have the heads freshened, install a new oil pump, inspect and possible replace the camshaft and/or roller lifters at that elevated mileage. I'd also want to make sure the rockers were still serviceable (or swap in some pedestal mounts) and the push rods were of the required length.

tjm73 said:

I'd buy a done short block and swap everything onto it. But you may want to have the heads freshened, install a new oil pump, inspect and possible replace the camshaft and/or roller lifters at that elevated mileage. I'd also want to make sure the rockers were still serviceable (or swap in some pedestal mounts) and the push rods were of the required length.

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Well that’s going from about $500 to over $2000 to fix something that isn’t broken in the first place. I’d rather not do that. I’m just trying to be proactive and go ahead and freshen up the short block.

Cams are getting replaced and so are valve springs and sensors. And this engine doesn’t have pushrods. 2011-14 5.0.

HA HA!! I read your screen name and the list in your sig and my brain went to the push rod engine. 200K+ on a DOHC already?!?! wow

Take it for what it's worth, Jasper won't touch these coyotes, or the mt82.

tjm73 said:

HA HA!! I read your screen name and the list in your sig and my brain went to the push rod engine. 200K+ on a DOHC already?!?! wow

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Lol all good. I figured my sig is what got you. I haven’t updated it. It only lets you do 4 lines and I’ve had more than 4 mustangs so I quit updating it

Pianoballer86 said:

Take it for what it's worth, Jasper won't touch these coyotes, or the mt82.

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What does this mean? I don’t know who jasper is.

jasper is a major engine rebuilder.

90lxhatch93 said:

Nothing wrong with the engine, just has 200K miles.

All I want to do is fresh bearings and rings.

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90lxhatch93 said:

Well that’s going from about $500 to over $2000 to fix something that isn’t broken in the first place.

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IF IT AIN'T BROKEN, DON'T FIX IT.

If you run a leak-down test and all is well, your rings don't need to be replaced. You can also hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge and check your hot oil pressure...if the oil pressure is good, your bearings don't need to be replaced.

90lxhatch93 said:

Question is in the title. Nothing wrong with the engine, just has 200K miles.

All I want to do is fresh bearings and rings. Can I just pull and replace to factory spec and replace the torque to yield bolts.

Does it require a hone with fresh rings? If so, can I do that myself by buying a honing tool and putting it on a drill?

Also, does someone have a list of which bolts are torque to yield. I assume just main, rod, and head? Does anyone know where to get the OE bolts? I can only find OE head bolts.

Thanks in advance!

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I'd go with ARP bolts. You can give Jegs or Summit a call and they can help you get what you need for your rebuild.

https://www.jegs.com/v/ARP/070

Any reputable engine builder will tell you if the stock crank comes out you’re going to want to have the block align honed (or aligned bored if far enough out of spec.) The mains have been worn in with the stock main bearings. If you just throw new bearings in without mic’ing and align honing you could easily spin a bearing. With that being said it’s your motor and people do sloppy mechanic stuff all the time to save money. Just do so at your own risk. Also like the guys said above... if it aint broke dont fix it. Do a compression test, leak down test and look at oil pressure when warm. If everything looks good keep driving it till the wheels fall off unless building for more power or racing purposes.

Pianoballer86 said:

Take it for what it's worth, Jasper won't touch these coyotes, or the mt82.

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Because Jasper is stuck in 1969 NASCAR mentality.