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Discussion Starter #1
Man, it is one thing or another with the engine on this car.
Semi local engine shop rebuilt my stock block this past winter. Car has been on the road and I’ve been troubleshooting some driveability issues and valvetrain noise. Happened to notice some odd sediment whenever I checked the dipstick, so cut open my last oil filter. Bottom of the filter can looks like copper metalflake paint. Amazingly, oil pressure seems good.
Contacted machine shop that did the work. Sent pics and video of recently developed knocking noise. I have to call them today to discuss.
From what I’m reading online, it sounds like I should expect thrust bearing wear when I open it back up. I’m using a T5 and a block plate. What could be the cause of this on such a common combination?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Talked to the shop. Gotta pull the engine and they’ll take a look at it.
 

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The shop doesn’t seem to be in any rush to crack her open for a look. So, I’ve been mulling over my options.

1) I chill and wait for the shop to get a round tuit. Probably means no engine this summer. Boo. That really sucks as I’m in Ontario Canada-summer is short and I spent the winter putting this engine together with parts I’d been stockpiling for over a year. No idea yet what kind of damage I’m looking at and if or when they can fix it.

2) I found a complete ‘89 Mustang engine with about 150k miles on it online for “decent” (not great, but decent) money. I’d probably still want to do a tear down on it and at minimum a rering and rebearing depending on the condition of the bores. The slippery slope of machine work is the danger here. “it ran good when it was taken out of the car” kinda deal.

3) **** the shop, buy a reman’d shortblock, transfer my heads and intake over and be done with it. Besides likely being the most expensive option, my issue is that I’m in Canada, and there doesn’t seem to be alot of options for reputable rebuilt shortblock builders. I could have one shipped from jegs or summit. Any suggestions here?

Keep in mind this is for a pretty mild build, so I don’t need Ford Strokers or other high end build. I actually emailed with Jim a while back but he doesn’t do stock block builds anyways.

The current broken engine is bored + .030, with hyper pistons, stock crank and rods, E cam (which I hate, I’d like a stock HO cam or maybe a XE264HR-14, no lumpy idle) Tmoss port explorer lower, Flotek 180 heads with PRW Sportman 1.6 roller tip rockers, AL9 with Quarterhorse and Decipha tuning. Mated to a rebuilt T5 and a 7.5 IRS rear with 3.27’s. It’s in a Miata so the rear is plenty strong enough.
I want to be able to take this car on long roadtrips.

I guess I’m just spit-balling here. Looking for some friendly advice or opinions.
Cheers.
 

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You ain't the only one. I paid a shop over $6k to "refresh" my engine. The totally screwed the pooch on the build. The engine is now at another shop to fix what these incompetent morons did to my engine. I expect that it will cost an additional $3-5K to make it right. So my race season is shot....well it was shot because of the Hoax called Covid anyway. Track is shut down for the year.
 
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That does blow.
It depends on budget really. If you have the $2000+ freight to drop on a blueprint short block, that will probably do you just fine. Plus you can have it to you in probably a couple weeks.

It kind of beats the unknowns of buying a secondhand engine, and you could have the one you pull out be a spare once it checks out. I will say that on average the used 5.0s I’ve seen and bought used have all been in good shape.
 

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If you want something to beat on this summer, check the boneyards for an explorer engine. Install your top end. Then sell the heads and intake.
Or, phone Beatty & Woods in Mississauga and see if they have a short block.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Talked to the shop today. Thrust bearing is chewed up. They say it looks as if something is pushing the crankshaft forward. Talked to the guy that did my trans. Sent pics of pilot bearing marks on input shaft. He says it looks dead on. What else should I be looking at?
I don’t want to have to pull this engine again for a long time.
 

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Talked to the shop today. Thrust bearing is chewed up. They say it looks as if something is pushing the crankshaft forward. Talked to the guy that did my trans. Sent pics of pilot bearing marks on input shaft. He says it looks dead on. What else should I be looking at?
I don’t want to have to pull this engine again for a long time.
Factory shortblock, or aftermarket crank?
 

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You ain't the only one. I paid a shop over $6k to "refresh" my engine. The totally screwed the pooch on the build. The engine is now at another shop to fix what these incompetent morons did to my engine. I expect that it will cost an additional $3-5K to make it right. So my race season is shot....well it was shot because of the Hoax called Covid anyway. Track is shut down for the year.
Hoax? As in a humorous or malicious deception? You don't believe that folks are sick and dying from Covid-19?
 
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Hoax? As in a humorous or malicious deception? You don't believe that folks are sick and dying from Covid-19?
There is a thread dedicated to this, lets keep this mans tale of woe on track.


OP I have also had a hell of time with parts recently. Finally got it all working and the lower intake is leaking now, lol. Good luck
 

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There is a thread dedicated to this, lets keep this mans tale of woe on track.


OP I have also had a hell of time with parts recently. Finally got it all working and the lower intake is leaking now, lol. Good luck
I meant no disrespect to the OP. It just irks me when I read comments like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Next time I chat with the shop I’ll have them make note of the crank end play. With the clutch and trans etc bolted up the endplay shouldn’t change right? What is the right way to check for endplay with engine and trans assembled, and without access to the crank since the oil pan will be in place?

I‘m getting them to replace the noisy lifters, and the E cam is staying out in favour of a new xe264 while it‘s apart.
 

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Next time I chat with the shop I’ll have them make note of the crank end play. With the clutch and trans etc bolted up the endplay shouldn’t change right? What is the right way to check for endplay with engine and trans assembled, and without access to the crank since the oil pan will be in place?

I‘m getting them to replace the noisy lifters, and the E cam is staying out in favour of a new xe264 while it‘s apart.
You can measure it off the front of the balancer or crank pulley. Where ever you can fing a good flat spot for a dial indicator to read. You shoukd be able to grab the balancer with your hands and pull it back and forth. You coukd also put a screwdriver or prybar behind it also to move it. Just be cautious of prying hard as to not damage the timing cover or balancer. You should see between .005 and .010 end play.

Another good check is before you install the flywheel and clutch is to install the bellhousing and trans. You should be able to look in the clutch fork hole and see if the input shaft is bottoming out in the pilot bearing.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #18
That’s great. I’ll be able to check all that out of the car before it goes back in and check again after a few miles are on it.

The pilot bearing bottoming check....If the shaft is bottoming out the trans won’t snug up to the bellhousing, right?
Thanks.
 

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Murphy's Law - "Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong."

O'Toole's commentary on Murphy's Law - "Murphy was an optimist."
 

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Next time I chat with the shop I’ll have them make note of the crank end play. With the clutch and trans etc bolted up the endplay shouldn’t change right? What is the right way to check for endplay with engine and trans assembled, and without access to the crank since the oil pan will be in place?

I‘m getting them to replace the noisy lifters, and the E cam is staying out in favour of a new xe264 while it‘s apart.
You should have received a build sheet with all of your clearances on it. Some shops are more detailed than others, but any engine builder should provide that.

It would be a good thing to know what the thrust clearance was when you started.
 
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