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Discussion Starter #1
I have done all the mods myself in my sig except the 3.73 gear and 6-speed. And also the custom chip. My question is I would really like install a set of AFR 165's this summer along with maybe an ed curtis cam. I did the intake myself, but never went any farther than that. I just want to know what is involved with a head and cam swap. using basic hand tools and a tourqe wrench?

Also i have about 175,000 miles on the motor. i am the original owner. in addition to the cam and heads i was thinking new t-chain, water pump, radiator, lifters, p-rods.

with everything new except the cam bearings, main bearings and rings and oil pump. do you think i shouldnt worry about getting more life out of this engine? i change oil every 3000 with mobil 1. also this fall after the fuel system upgrade i pull 230rwhp on a mustang dyno (288 at the flywheel) that tells me the engine is still in ok shape? Just looking for everyones thoughts on weather i can do this myself or not.........thanks
 

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with everything new except the cam bearings, main bearings and rings and oil pump. do you think i shouldnt worry about getting more life out of this engine?

Id be a little concerned about those bearings. If it were me, Id take the block out of the car and completely redo it. atleast hone and rering and bearing it.


Seems like alot of miles on soem of the components.

Just my .02.
 

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To answer your question, yes you could probably do it. Its not that complicated, just time consuming.

But I'd be a little worried with that many miles on the motor..

Good luck
Andy
 

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Discussion Starter #4
the only problem with that is this is my daily driver. im a working student right now. I really cant afford the extra time to take out the motor and re-build it. I could swap in a crate motor. but that would have to wait till summer 04 as i dont have enough funds. with that being said should i go ahead with the cam and heads? or wait till i can get a whole new motor?
 

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Doing a head and cam change is not a quick job.

Seems like alot of work with so many miles on the engine.

I really cant see how all the internal components are in great or even good shape.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i just looked on summit. they sell a ford 302 short block for 1,200. i was wondering if i did the cam and heads what are the potential bad things that could happen retaining the old rings and main and cam bearings?

what im saying is, if i do the heads and cam, and somthing happens. can i just get a short block and swap everything over to it? or could the high mileage parts take out the new heads and cam costing me more in the long run?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i use pro-long and a mobil one oil and filter at every 3000 miles. alot of the mile were freeway miles. i dont burn oil. the car made power on the dyno typical to the mods i have. i would think if the ring were going i could tell?

seems to me the valve train would go before the main bearings?

again what problems could arise from useing the old short block? minus t-chain and lifters?


do you think i should just hold off till i can get a new motor?

how much longer does it take if i wanted to re-ring and bearing the block.....instead of just installing heads? and can this be done with hand tools? i know i would need a cherry picker. and i have a engine stand already?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
also i dont have any emmisions............no egr no smog pump thermactor tube.....ect. wouldnt this help speed up the head swap. i swaped in my #30 injectors in like under 2 hours. once the intake is gone and the rest of the air intake stuff. theres a lot of room in there. i'm more worried about valve geometery, push rod length....ect

also i did the upper and lower intake over a weekend, wasent to bad
 

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175k and your adding heads and cam...your gonna be getting into a lot harder and more often, thats the whole idea, right?

i would think your asking for problems. those new heads/cam and even new valvetrain parts are gonna put alot of strain on that "old" bottom end...she may come unglued ??? then ya gotta tear it all apart again. never mind how pissed your gonna be???

good luck...i wouldn't do it with that old bottom end..
 

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i personally don't like rebuilt motors...they don't seem to last. they tend to start smoking early....just me..iv'e seen guys buy those Tagetmaster GM motors and even ones from Napa and there junk in no time flat...like i say, just my opinion and what iv'e seen..

if you plan on keeping it, then i would go a crate motor..i would think a nice GT40 longblock would be a good base. you can add your top parts and your good to go. i can't remember seeing bad info on the GT40. if moneys not a problem then theres always DDS, Coast, and plenty of others..

i've got plenty of mods on mine with 65k on it. this Spring i'm adding heads, all new valvetrain pcs, RRs, Romac balancer, timing chain. this will pretty much give me the package i want for now...my plan is to run it til she goes. then a crate motor is in my future...but i plan on keeping the car..

good luck...i'm sure its a tough decision...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I plan on keeping the car. It was my first car i bought and i was 18.....good memories.

Is this a bad plan;

install the new heads and cam with new lifters and water pump timing chain and p-rods and all the assorted gaskets. And drive the car and see what happens.

If the lower end gives me problems pop in a new ford short block?

I really hate to spend the extra 1200 if i can avoid it. I like working on the car its fun. so if i had to pull the motor a few months after the heads i wouldnt cry to hard.

I just want to know if i re-use the lower end, do i stand a chanch of messing up the new parts? if so then its not worth taking the chance.

the gt-40 long block is nice but there are better heads out there to spend money on than the gt-40 stuff. not to mention the long block from ford comes with all fox type stuff (water pump timing chain) on it and a b-303 cam. not really the combo i want
 

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Use part of the money you were going to buy heads with and have a reputable machine shop rebuild a used block for you. Try to swing new forged pistons in the process. Save a little more to get your funds back up to new heads level and put them on the new block. Do a complete swap one weekend instead of the heads, cam, intake. It will probably take the same amount of time labor wise anyway. It will take a little more money but you will have a backup motor if you end up playing too hard or something goes wrong down the road. This is all assuming that you have the storage space available.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
instead of having a machine shop make a short block out of a junkyard block. wouldnt it be better to just get a ford racing shortblock? i dont plan on racing the car i just have fun with it on the streets. also i dont plan on boosting it. my original 5.0 is around 165,000 so i've been pretty happy with it :p just wondering what you think?
 

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throw your heads and etc on it, and have a go at it....half the problem is paying labor and sounds like you turn your own wrenchs anway, so you got nothing to loose...might be frustrating to have it let go right after you out it together, but, oh well...you wanna play...you gotta pay.:D
 

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Discussion Starter #17
yes i turn my wrenches. i plan on doing all the work myself.

one of my questions was if the short block goes after the new heads and cam.....................am i just out my time and money for a new short block, or am i taking a chance i will botch then new parts i just installed
 

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Discussion Starter #18
i always thought half the fun was saying i made this myself.

anybody can throw big bucks at a shop and get a fast car. i call that the corvette mentality. i want a mustang i can be proud of and know i did it my self.

not to mention you learn sooooo much more about the car doing it yourself.
 

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i would think if the bottom goes its gonna start smoking cause of the rings or a bearing could let go, causing a rap. most likely neither will hurt your new top end parts..and the new top end stuff could be thrown on your new shortblock..

i turn all my own wrenchs to, no one works on my car...mines a spitting image of yours, right to a tee, 98 Cobras, lowered, just Rio Red..i have the Saleen taillight covers in black..
 
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