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Discussion Starter #1
Need to get My 94 AODE Movin'. Want to go with H/I/C.

Im most likely going to go with Edelbrock 6037 Heads and Performer RPM intake. Ive been told by a couple sources NOT to do cam because computer in my year gives you problems with that. MORE sources DO recommend changing the cam. Anyone have a suggestion for the BEST cam(exact model) with this combo without giving my computer fits? I want it to work well now and also allow for ATI Pro SC-1 next year without changing it again.
Also do the rockers need to be changed too (70k miles)?
If so I would also like suggestions on brand/size.

(PS....3000 RPM stall and Shift kit will be coming soon!)

Thanks in advance.:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
BTTT!!:mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
BTTTA!!:eek:
 

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The best thing for you to do is to

"bite the bullet" and have Ed Curtis do you a custom grind for your combo. Off the shelf cams are hit & miss sometimes, and with your auto you can't afford to lose low end torque. IMHO. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Re: The best thing for you to do is to

Matt K said:
"bite the bullet" and have Ed Curtis do you a custom grind for your combo
"bite the bullet" - meaning fork over a little more $$ ?

What are we talking here?:confused:
Thanks
 

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Custom cams usually run anywhere

from the $300 price range up to the $500 price range. There are some Mustang places that have designed their own cams that would be cheaper, and are designed with an automatic in mind. What I'm saying is that In my opinion you'd be happier with the results of a custom cam rather than most of the mass produced ones. We're talking spending maybe more than twice what most "off the shelf" cams cost, but you're going to be spending all that money on your heads, stall converter, etc. why not try to optimise it as much as possible rather than settling for second best. I think that stick cars are a lot more forgiving with your options, but since you aren't a stick you're going to have to work a bit harder for the same results. Anyone have any other cam suggestions for him? Maybe what some of you auto guys have run with some success? Good luck!
 

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You should get new springs, lifters, rockers, etc. when getting a cam to keep things nice and matched.

Off the shelf cams are fine and work great for most folks. Unless you are doing something unusual, building your own special setup, or looking for absolutely every last horse in the motor, then you don't necessarily need a custom cam. Most of the time you simply get the cam builders favorite/standard grind anyway. They are merely buying blanks from Crane, Erson, etc. to begin with, so why not trust the original vendors anyway?

Of course, custom cams are great is you know and trust the person doing the grinding, but they aren't required.

The Edelbrock parts you have are a great choice and have been proven to work well with cams similar to the Ford E303. This combo is designed for street use - it generates lots of low rpm torque and mid-range horse power with a peak around 6000 - 6500 rpm. Edelbrock has their own version of the E cam that they advertise to crank over 300 horses with your combo - check their website for details. Similar cams are made by Steeda, Lunati and Crane.

I run the 6037 heads and performer intake with the E303 cam with my 94GT with AODE and it works great. I have a 347 so that helps a little on the idle. The E has a little more lobe separation than the Crane 2030 so it idles a little rougher. The Crane 2030 cam is a good choice for your combo and generates good low end and mid-range power with a very good idle. It will make the power nice and low so you don't need to mess with the rev limiter and other computer functions.

And these cams will all work well with the stock converter so you won't have to get a 3000 rpm stall since it doesn't match that combo anyway. Spend the money on a transmission cooler and you may not need a converter or any tranny mods. If the converter is bad then a 2000 or so stall is all you need.
 

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Get some better heads...

I would skip the edlebrock heads and go for AFR's, probably 165's. I have used both and the AFR's are a ton better across the board. My 95 has the smallest cam avalible, the "baby" Crower (212/531 both sides with a 114 lsa), and with the 165's and a stock intake it puts out great numbers (see sig).
Comp has a similar cam ground on a 112 lsa for less money. Keep the duration short and the lsa wide with your year car with auto. Go for torque, you will be happy! Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
How does Steeda Cam #19 or a Crane 2031 sound with this combo.. I know no matter what, someone will offer something "better" than this, but does this combo seem acceptable?

1.Edelbrock 6037's
2.Edelbrock Performer RPM
3. Steeda #19 or Crane 2031
4. 1.7 Rockers (brand?)

Thanks
 

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They key to happiness and high performance is a MATCHED COMBINATION. There aren't really "good cams" and "poor cams," or any other parts for that matter; it depends on what you want the parts to do when they're all working together. The key is matching all the components so they compliment each other and work in the same rpm range. That means, for your car, matching the MAF, throttle body, intake manifold, heads, compression ratio, cam, headers/exhaust, torque converter, and overall gearing.

You can select from quite an rpm operating range where you want to make and transmit your power, and be happy with the result as long as the components work together. For each component in the above list that doesn't match well, you throw a big monkey wrench in the end results.

Let's say you want to stay with your automatic and the 373 gears that you already have, as those are major components. I agree with a previous post that AFR 165 is a better choice than the Edelbrock heads, if you can afford the few dollars more. If that's out of the budget, go Trick Flow Twisted Wedge for the same money as the Edelbrocks. The RPM manifold is satisfactory, but it dictates more cam than you're currently thinking about. Something like a 224/232 with lift in the mid .500 and lobe center of 112 degrees would work. Ought to have 10-10.5 to 1 compression. You want any torque converter to stall a bit below your torque peak, and that cam/head/manifold combo would do it with your proposed 3000 rpm converter.

On your cam, you definitely want to stay with more exhaust duration than intake, and a wide lobe center...112 - 114, because you said you don't want to change the cam when you do the supercharger, and you'll need this kind of configuration.

For a street car with an automatic and a mild supercharger coming later, I personally would go Performer 5.0, a 2200-2400 stall converter, and a fast ramp, shorter duration cam (like Comp Cams Xtreme Energy series) with about 212-216 on the intake, 220-224 on the exhaust, mid .500 lift, and lobe centers 112-114.
9.5-10 to 1 compression (which you can get by milling the heads and NOT changing your pistons). 65 mm throttle body, 73 or so MAF. You won't ever need to rev above 5800 rpm or so, and you'll LOVE the torque. You'll also have a wide, flat powerband later with the S.C. Your stock computer will like this setup as well.

If you're not changing to lower compression pistons with the S.C., don't mill the heads now and definitely go with the shorter duration setup, as the longer cams and low compression lack torque to pull the automatic.

Steve A.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Updated info!!

I found out today from Speedshop in Miami that they "misquoted" me...it IS the #19 cam that they wanted to use in my setup..
They quoted:

Labor: $600.00
Head set Felpro $121.28
Steeda Cam 18 $ 129.99 (which should be #19)
Timing chain $79.99
Intake Edelbr $549.99 --could do better
Heads Edelbr $1,200 ---could do better
TB 65mm $237.99 --not sure of brand

Total with tax $3123.00

Any thoughts on this combo/pricing?

Rockers/rods/valve covers "NOT NEEDED" according to them.
 

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Ive seen the steeda 19 work great in both n/a combos, and even better with the blower. if the place is going to sell you that cam for $129 that is a great deal. it normally costs $229

dave
93cobra
 

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Discussion Starter #13
fireball93 said:
Ive seen the steeda 19 work great in both n/a combos, and even better with the blower. if the place is going to sell you that cam for $129 that is a great deal. it normally costs $229

dave
93cobra
I think this is a misquote from them, because the Steeda catalog has this cam at $219.00

I have to re-negotiate the heads and intake anyway, but the TOTAL cost seems good, I guess.

Thoughts on "not doing" the rockers and push rods?
Thanks
 

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i would definetly replace the rockers. i would go with 1.6s from crane or ford motorsport. as for the pushrods why not replace them? they aren't that much, i think the motorsport hardened ones are only about $40. pretty cheap protection in my opinon. i'm in the process of doing a project similar to yours. I'm doing the labor myself and the way i look at I don't wanna do it all over if something was bad, so i'm replacing most every moving part.

dave
93 cobra
 

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Discussion Starter #15
fireball93 said:
i would definetly replace the rockers. i would go with 1.6s from crane or ford motorsport.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
fireball93 said:
i would definetly replace the rockers. i would go with 1.6s from crane or ford motorsport.
I found A "stud mount" or "direct bolt on" 1.6 at brothersperformance.com, both for $339....which one:confused:

There is also a 1.7 cobra roller rocker arm direct bolt on for $189.99

:confused: :confused: :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
This may be it...FINALLY

I visited Speedshop in Miami today. This is What Im going with, although it wont be for about 2 months:

Edelbrock Performer RPM
Edelbrock 6037's (O-ringed)
Steeda #19 Cam
Edelbrock 65 mm TB (still "up in the air")

This is for now, the injectors and MAF will come later.

Next week, they are installing Steeda Springs and Caster/camber plates, doing a GOOD tune, Timing Bump, and according to them: "clean out this pollution crap cluttering up the engine"

VibrantRed Can tell you the car needs the lowering badly..he saw the car..

What does everyone think of this combo?

You can see my "4x4" look mustang now on my web site, but I will put before and after pics next week when I get the springs.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
BTTT!!!:)
 

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BBandTracing.com has custom cams for $249, go this route with everything else will get most out of setup.
Personally if you cam wait until July I would go this route:

$135 - TFS stage 1 cam
$935 - TW heads
$405 - TFS Track intake

all from JD's performance

then add

$180 - Crane rockers
$90 - pushrods

I beat this will make more power than the Edelbrock setup
 

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Discussion Starter #20
redcoupe said:
BBandTracing.com has custom cams for $249, go this route with everything else will get most out of setup.
Personally if you cam wait until July I would go this route:

$135 - TFS stage 1 cam
$935 - TW heads
$405 - TFS Track intake

all from JD's performance

then add

$180 - Crane rockers
$90 - pushrods

I beat this will make more power than the Edelbrock setup
Just curious as to why you think this will "make more power" than the other setup. Is that your opinion, or do you have Dyno's that show this?:confused:

I dont know that much about it.
Thanks
 
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