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Discussion Starter #1
I have waited a long time to get someone from Steeda on this board, and now I finally found someone. Well, I was thinking about getting the STEEDA supercharger kit and I have have 2 questions....#1. I heard that with the Steeda dual in-tank fuel pumps you need to have the tank at least HALF-FULL to avoid sloshing problems....is that true, have you guys fixed that situation yet? I don't want to have to worry about my tank being half-full when some LS1 cars wants to race me.....know what I mean? #2. With your ECU calibration IS IT NECESSARY TO HAVE A CUSTOM CHIP BURNED? Alot of people are wondering the answers to BOTH of these questions....please help us out!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the brilliant idea,Chief, but I thought it would best serve the interests of the Corralers out there who were wondering the same thing as I was/still am.....maybe more people's questions can be answered that way.....don't you think I already thought of that? Some people.........
 

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If you use a 2003 Cobra pump with the stock GT gas tank you will have this problem. The Steeda dual pump system involves modifying your stock fuel pump can and installing 2 pumps inside it. By using your stock fuel can we don’t have this problem. The customer must send us his can along with his ECU for modification, which we can turn around normally within 24-48 hours after we receive it. With our set up you can typically go down ¼ to an 1/8 of a tank without problems. We normally recommend customers not to get into boost below ¼ tank simply because we don’t know how aggressively they may drive their vehicle. Below this level there is some risk of fuel sloshing away from the fuel pump can during acceleration, especially if you are road racing and you combine cornering force with hard acceleration.

To answer your question on the ECU program. The program is a complete computer reflash, not an add-on computer chip. It incorporates Ford’s adaptive strategy so it is able to work with and adapt to a variety of engine combinations. Just as your stock N/A GT Mustang responds well to basic bolt-ons such as pulleys, headers, X-pipes, and cat-exhaust systems, our program will adapt to slight variations between superchargers in the same fashion. There are certain limitations just like in the stock program, but as long as the car falls within a basic criteria the program can be used without any additional tuning. That criteria is as follows.

1) Vortech or Paxton supercharger making 8-11psi
2) Stock or Bullitt intake manifold
3) Stock cams
4) A totally stock exhaust system or an aftermarket exhaust system that mimics the stock configuration can be used. This includes shorty headers, H or X pipes, and cat-back exhaust systems. Our program retains all EPA/Ford Motor Company OBDII emissions diagnostics monitoring. This means if you go to an off-road pipe it will set off the check engine light just like with a stock calibration. MIL eliminators will need to be used in that case.

The calibration will support 3.27, 3.55, or 3.73 gears. The gear calibration must be specified when you send the processor to us so we can program it with the correct calibration for your speedometer. Also, to use the calibration certain components are required and cannot be interchanged. They must be used for correct, safe operation. These are:

1) 30lb Ford Racing Bosch style fuel injectors
2) Steeda dual pump system
3) Steeda 80mm mass airflow meter
4) Air charge temperature sensor relocated to the discharge side of the supercharger
5) Colder heat range spark plugs
 

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techguy said:

1) 30lb Ford Racing Bosch style fuel injectors
2) Steeda dual pump system
3) Steeda 80mm mass airflow meter
4) Air charge temperature sensor relocated to the discharge side of the supercharger
5) Colder heat range spark plugs
I know we get 1, 2 and 3 in the package but what about 4 + 5? This is the first time I'm reading about 4 + 5.
 

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Plus also what are options if we decide we want to add a inter/aftercooler to our cars after we installed the steeda kit?

Does the computer need to be reflashed? do you guys even offer a reflash with the intercooler considered? Any comments on intercoolers for this application?
 

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The spark plugs I'm pretty sure you need to buy on your own.. and I think there was a good write up on this site about them previously.. really good write up if I remember correctly.. but yeah, I wanna know both 4 and 5 are included or if Im gonna be ordering stuff from all over creation to complete this kit properly. Now you guys recommend not letting it below 1/8th of a tank. We know there's a few screwballs that have done it. Anyword on how they fair? Im sure it wont really hurt it and if your beating on a blown car that has the low fuel light on anyway your kinda asking for it.. but never the less.. Have you guys seen anything bad happen due to sloshing?


Also, the original pump is just reconditioned to fit the dual pump config.. so if it's basically a stock pump housing with dual pumps in it, I dont see how the sloshing would be a problem. It should retain the stock appearance on the outside.. correct?
 

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I know we get 1, 2 and 3 in the package but what about 4 + 5? This is the first time I'm reading about 4 + 5.
The part to do #4 comes with the package, and #5 we can supply you with. Most aftermarket tuners including us feel that a colder heat range spark plug is a basic change that should be done to any supercharged car. There are spark plugs we prefer but any autoparts store can supply you with them as well.

To elaborate on point#4, The normal Vortech installation calls for you to install the air charge temp sensor on the inlet side of the supercharger. What we ask you to do is move it to the discharge side. The calibration is designed to measure the actual air temperature after the air has been compressed, so this is important for proper timing. However, when you relocate the sensor, you have to plug the hole left where the sensor was originally located, so we supply you with a second temperature sensor. Simply install the one we supply in the correct location, plug it in, and leave the other one in its original place to act as a plug so you dont have a vacuum leak.



Now you guys recommend not letting it below 1/8th of a tank. We know there's a few screwballs that have done it. Anyword on how they fair?
Yes, we have talked to customers that have taken it down to 1/8 of a tank even though we dont recommend it. During normal driving this should not pose a problem. What we are concerned with is the guy whos going to make a 1st through 4th gear blast at full boost and may not have payed attention to his fuel level. The higher volume dual pumps put a much higher demand on the fuel system. The can the pumps sit inside of is where the pumps draw their fuel from. The can has to be refilled by the fuel in the tank to keep the pumps supplied with fuel. If the fuel level is low enough to draw fuel away from the can during cornering or acceleration the pumps will suck the can dry, the motor will lean out, and we all know what happens when you run too lean under boost...
This is the situation we are trying to avoid by advising customers to stay above 1/4 tank. It is simply a safety factor.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Long tube headers?

I have the BBK ceramic coated long-tube headers on my car, as you see in the sig. Does that pose a problem? You mentioned shorty or stock headers, but not long tubes. I have a completely new exhaust: long tube headers, shorty catted X pipe, and a Magnaflow exhaust. Can you make the reflash work for my car?. I hope you can guys.....I have settled on the Steeda kit and I don't want to have to go searching for a new kit again.Thanks.
 

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Re: Long tube headers?

Zinc2001GT said:
I have the BBK ceramic coated long-tube headers on my car, as you see in the sig. Does that pose a problem? You mentioned shorty or stock headers, but not long tubes. I have a completely new exhaust: long tube headers, shorty catted X pipe, and a Magnaflow exhaust. Can you make the reflash work for my car?. I hope you can guys.....I have settled on the Steeda kit and I don't want to have to go searching for a new kit again.Thanks.
Good question. I have longtubes also with a catted X. I've been waiting to see what 02' supercharger kits come out and Steeda tune still looks like the best setup. I don't think the saleen IV tune can adapt like that :confused:
Will the steeda tune adapt to longtubes as long as you still have cats?
 

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Just a quick question:

Can the Steeda kit be used with an automatic transmission?
2001 GT

Anything special to look out for with auto trans?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
See how much interest there is about this kit? techguy, does anyone else on the corral work for steeda...I have a feeling that you may need help on this thread.....there are alot of interested parties here, and much potential business......so help us out!!!
 

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Zinc2001GT said:
See how much interest there is about this kit? techguy, does anyone else on the corral work for steeda...I have a feeling that you may need help on this thread.....there are alot of interested parties here, and much potential business......so help us out!!!
you always have the option to call steeda directly also. ;)
 

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Long tubes change the location of the front o2 sensors which can change how they read at part throttle, closed loop operation. However this has no effect on open loop, wide open throttle performance. We have several customers running long tubes and none that I am aware of have reported any I'll effects.

On the automatics, we do not have the ability to reflash automatics, only 5-speeds.

See how much interest there is about this kit? techguy, does anyone else on the corral work for steeda...I have a feeling that you may need help on this thread.....there are alot of interested parties here, and much potential business......so help us out!!!
We are aware there are some misconceptions, unanswered questions, and lots of interest concerning this program. We hope this thread has helped answer many of the most frequently asked questions regarding our tech transfer program. Currently my ID and Steedanews for our media dept are the only ID's we have on Corral. Due to the numerous projects I am involved with I may not get to your questions as fast as you might expect, so we appreciate your patience when it comes to this. We will continue to answer your questions as best we can. You can also give us a call at 954-960-0774 and get some of your individual questions answered that you may not see here.
 

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DeadLurker said:
you always have the option to call steeda directly also. ;)
That's what I did. I have the kit (already had vortech) minus the vortech. Everything techguy has said I confirm. He did however leave off powerpipe as one of the additional mods the tune supports. More power than I can use right now. Still have stock tires, I have no traction With better tires I can better handle the power. No more power mods for me until I get better tires. But there's still suspension stuff. If anyone has questions feel free to PM me.

edit: I'll be at the Waterford Lakes Ford Roundup on Feb 15. I won't be racing only car show. I'm showing my Torino so I and the stang will be available for questions.
Ed;)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
one more question......

Sorry to bother you again "techguy" but I have only one more question. Do you, in your professionaly opinion, believe that the reflashed ECU can adapt to, say a ported Bullitt intake with the Accufab single bore elliptical throttle body with the post removed from the inatke to accomodate for the throttle body? I know this will flow WAY much more air than the stock 57mm throttle body the Bullitt intake comes with. Thanks for the reply my friend.
 

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We have done testing with a box stock Bullitt intake, (on the Yellow Q car you may have seen in 5.0 and MM&FF)and have customers using ported Bullitt intakes as well. However we have not tested with the throttle body you suggest. Our suggestion just to be safe would be to dyno the car with your Bullitt intake and the 57mm throttle body. Take note of the horsepower and the air fuel ratio during that pull. If you are already approaching 415-420rwhp, then you are approaching the upper range of our calibration and there may not be enough room left for the calibration to keep the A/F ratio safe, but seeing your A/F ratio along with your power numbers before the throttle body would help us guide you in making the safest choice.
 

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techguy said:
On the automatics, we do not have the ability to reflash automatics, only 5-speeds.
Are there any plans/chances in the future for autos or is this package never going to be an option for us?
 
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