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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
After searching all day on what exactly i need to rebuild a 4v, i decided to look at shortblocks all of which are going to be around $3,000

From my knowledge what i would need is:

Block bored .030" over
Rods
Pistons (with Rings and wristpins)
Rod Bearings
Rod Bolts
New Gaskets

Is there anything else i am going to need? (i.e. billit oil pump gears)

Also can someone explain balancing and blueprinting to me? im a bit of a novice so please bare (bear?) with me. The pistons i were looking at are all balanced within 2.5 grams of eachother, is this good? bad?

Thanks in advance

Edit: Also can you give me a ballpark estimate on getting the block bored, and blanced (If Necessary?)
 

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yea some one help us out here im going to have to pull mine out to really soon b/c of it knocking, thats why i said us. so i need to decide which way is cheaper.
 

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Unless your both highly skilled in engine building I'd suggest buying one. The mod motor isnt easy like the old 5.0s.
Im getting a new DOHC shortblock installed at X2C Motorsports now that my engine spun a bearing.

http://www.x2cmotorsports.com

Call for pricing on the DOHC block - 818.901.8000
 

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i need the shortblock done in my cobra no 6 piston said goodbye, the price i was quoted was 3.000 and the parts were quality name brands, seems to be the going price for a decent shortblock.
 

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Unless you have access to a machine shop building your own shortblock really doesn't save you all that much. The assembly charge is minimal. Its the charges that incur from the prepping of the block like boreing/resleaving, decking, honing, exc. that add up ontop of parts.
 

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Like Jwilliams said the mod motor is a tough one to rebuild and not a good motor to do your first engine rebuild. Check with some machine shops for pricing but make sure you have it ballanced. The crank, rods and pistons have a rotating mass that must be ballanced to run correctly.
It depends on what you want to do with the car but having it blueprinted is a bit expensive and mostly done on race engines. There is a company in Lansing called VT Engines that posts on here. Several people have said good things about them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
99Roush, thanks alot! ill give them a call soon and see on there pricing, i had no idea of any machine shops around this area (at least of performance minded shops) other than VT engines which is in lansing.

hopefully if i provide the block, balancing and assembly wont be too much :)
 

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So many people saying the modular is hard to build without having actually tried it to prove that statement. If you dont have the tools and you dont plan on building them semi-frequently then just buy one and be done with it as the cost of the tools to do it are going to negate any savings on a one time build. Ive already started a second this year (12 calender months...not 2004).....the first is fine making 555 RWHP on 13# boost....this one is either backup or going into a fox body coupe daily driver im buying.
 

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GASVT, how lbs of boost are you running?
 

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Were buildin mine!
 

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Rods
Pistons,rings, and pins usually come together.
Main and rod bearrings usually come together.
If you decide to build it yourself, make sure the machine shop torque plate hones the block.If they do not know what that means, run like the wind from there.I pay about 200 to get blocks torque plate honed.
Either main studs or NEW ford main bolts
Either head studs or NEW ford head bolts
Gaskets.
I would definately go with oil pump gears and a new oil pump.
Definately a new oil pump pick up.
I always pop out the oil galley plugs so I can clean them thoroughly, then I drill them out and tap them to fit a pipe plug.

If you have any more questions feel free to ask.

Dont neglect the head.Maybe a valve job is in order.
 

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I wouln't try it on your own. I've built about 40-50 of em and they can be tricky if u don't have the correct timing tools and a detailed service manual. Bore the block .020 over not .030. When u get your new rods they come with ARP rod bolts. You'll want your rods and pistons balanced to +/- 1/2 a gram. VT, Livernois, or modular performance are all excellent choices. Consider Boring,honing, balancing, decking the block and heads, and a valve job mandatory!!!!! Don't price shop, it will cost you dearly if you have to do it again because of a mistake or an inferior part. hope this helps.

Mark
TRUE BLUE PERFORMANCE
 

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I have the same problem. Broke a ring bounced around in chamber. I don't know the extent of the damage yet but wondering if new shortblock would be cheaper.
 

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Just remember, if you really mess your block up, Mark8 is the same block up to "Romeo", I think was the new term. Which was 99+ I think. Can pick up M8 blocks at a decent price on Ebay. etc.
Shortblocks themselves can be picked up built by shops at a 1/2 decent price most the time cheaper than you could build it for, from what I seen. Expence was in the machining.
 

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A DOHC Buildup is not difficult if you already have experience assembling a 5.0 or any other motor. the only diffrence with the DOHC is getting all the cam tools, and setting up the timing chains and tensioners. The Factory shop manual spells out the the entire entire cam and chain set up procedure. I would say the most difficult part about building up your Cobra motor would be finding a good machine shop and dealing with the down time while your motor is apart. As far as the cam tools go, I know OTC( the company who makes the special tools for ford) groups the tools together as a kit for a reasnable cost.
 
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