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Discussion Starter #1
I am upgrading the brakes on my 86 GT to the 73mm calipers. I thought this would be a good time to add brake cooling ducts for use at open track events. Does anyone have any experience fabricating cooling ducts - specifically- how to attach the them to the brakes/dust shield?

Do I need to put some type of screen at the opening to prevent rocks and debris from getting to the brakes?

Will the openings need to be closed off for street use?
 

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I'm running mine without dust shields, simply clamped to a hole on the spindle and around the reinforcement wire in the ducting. But others have cut holes in the dust shield and welded a piece of metal tube to it at an angle, and attached the ducting to the tube. In any case you want to direct the air into the center of the rotor.

I've seen the debate on screens go back and forth.

I do not close off my ducts for street use and have not yet noticed any ill effects but I'm open for input on all accounts.

I still don't have any usable pics of my ducts...
 

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Do a search under "brake ducts".
I asked the same question a couple of weeks ago. Check thread title "brake cooling ducts" by 95 GT RR.
I got the spindle duct from Brothers 2003 catalog for $100 (not listed online, must call a ask for it), and got the intake duct and hose by NACA Ducts from www.racerpartswholesale.com for around $80.
I have a 95 GT, so I removed the fog lights and brackets and fit the intake duct (part # SPA-D100) in its place. Attached the spindle duct to the spindle after removing the dust sheild. Secured the high temp silicone hose between the intake and spindle duct with clamps. Be sure to secure the hose to the frame and the sway bar very good. I used 3" plumping hose clamp from Lowes and zip ties. Also, make sure you leave enough slack in the hose, so it can flex with the wheel from lock to lock. In addition, realize that the tire location will be different, once the car is on the ground. I positioned the hose over the top of the sway bar. Check it prior to making any final cuts.
It works great. I check everything after every run to be sure nothing has shifted or got loose.
 

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To answer the rest of your questions.
I drive my car very little on the street, so I leave the ducts open.
I did not install any screens. I don't know if that will cause any problems or not. Can anyone comment on the use or need for screens?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the input. After seeing some of the pic's I think I will try to piece together my own and see what happens.

Can anyone comment on the effectiveness at the track?
 

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Do you have fade currently? I shy away from taking time to do mods on parts of the car that don't need it that badly...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes - severe. I just completed my first open track event at Watkins Glen and lost the brakes completely in turn 6 after about 30 minutes of full speed laps. I was using Bosch ceramic pads and DOT 5 fluid, both were installed new on the previous day. All the lines were bled when I changed to the DOT 5 fluid.

Remember, I have an 86GT and the brakes are pathetic (10" with 60mm calipers, rear drums). I am hoping the upgrade to the 73mm calipers and extra cooling will at least give me competitve brakes. At some point I will add rear discs too.
 

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stuck86 said:
I just completed my first open track event at Watkins Glen and lost the brakes completely in turn 6 after about 30 minutes of full speed laps.
Well happy cooling to you, guess you need it!
I was using Bosch ceramic pads and DOT 5 fluid, both were installed new on the previous day.
Check out this thread about brake fluid...
 

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Stuck86,
I've got an 8.8, 5 lug rear end complete with disk brakes including rotors and calipers. They are stock take-offs from my 95 Gt. I'm looking to get $ 400 for it all. If your interested let me know.
And, yes, brake cooling for a Mustang is very helpful. The parts will last longer and your less likely to end up with the pedal to the floor and no brakes halfway thru a session.

Dave - email [email protected]
 

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Discussion Starter #11
95 GT RR,
Thanks for the offer but I'm low on funds at the moment.

Lots of good feedback. Thanks everyone.
 

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wait, so ur brakes lasted that long?! woah, i plan on doing some OT events and am REALLY worried about how much my brakes are going to suck, but now it looks like i'm going to get at least a little use out of them.

how much were your pads and where did you get them from? thanks!

arron
 

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Stuck86,

You didn't specifically mention it, so let me suggest that while you're doing the 73mm calipers you should go ahead and upgrade to the larger '87-93 11" rotors. They're still inadequate, but that extra surface area and mass should make an appreciable difference in fade resistance.

I'm impressed you got your brakes to last that long at the Glen, that's a rough track on brakes.
 

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But to do that, he's going to need '87-93 spindles.
 

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Ooooohh, my bad, I didn't realize the spindles were different.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Stang Man, remember that was my first open track event so I am sure that I was not using my brakes as hard a more experienced driver would. Also, I did start to experience fade pretty quickly (about 2 laps) but it would get to a certain point and then stay at that level for the next 5-7 laps and then it would get really scary.

I don't think I will be able to run with the more experienced drivers or better braking cars without an upgrade.

I have purchased and reconditioned as set of '93 spindles and I do plan to upgrade to the larger rotors if they will fit in my 15" phone dial rims.

I have to say that I am pretty impressed with the Bosch pads. For a small premium over stock replacements they held up well and since I had to drive 300 miles to and from the event I needed pads that could be used on the street. I have put about another 1500 miles on the cars since June and the pads are still good.

Also, the DOT 5 brake fluid has not caused any problems that I know of. I have heard that the silicone based fluids are not compatible with the Mustang brake systems (?). I did completely flush out the old DOT 3 fluid first. Does the silicone fluid break down the seals in the system?
 

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if they are just stock LX/GT brakes from a 87-93 fox body then yes they will fit with the 10 holes, i ran mine with turbines as well as some BBS mesh 15" wheels with no problems whatsoever.

thanks for the help, i recently got some 17" cobra R's (4 lug) so it will be a while before i upgrade brakes, lol.

arron
 

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I'm new here so feel free to correct me...

I've got a 1990 Lx w/ the 73 mm lincoln calipers. I did notice a change from the stockers. I am running brake ducts & Perf. Friction "Z" pads. The "Z" pads did great at the track & are ok to drive on the street. I raced at Hallett in OK, its a shorter, twisty, technical hard on brakes track. My brakes would still fade after 3-4 laps. Due to the lack of straigtaways the brakes never really get a brake. I would take a couple slower laps & the brakes were back. I had just flushed the system & used all new Ford Racing fluid & it looked like cok-a-cola by the end of the day.

We use the hight $$ Motul in my dads '96 Cobra & other club cars with awesome results. Motul is worth the money!!

Love the forum!
 

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stuck86,

While your upgrading the brakes...You might get the stainless steel caliper bushings & upgrade hoses to braided stainless steel.
The bushings are to stop the caliper from deflection under braking. I think the bushings are $20 from either Steeda or Maximum Motorsports. I think I paid $119 for the stainles brake hose kit, then I fabbed up my own for my rear discs.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Good thought hwyracer, I have heard that the steel bushing make a big difference.

Did you upgrade your master cylinder with the 73 mm calipers?
 
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