Bought a 5.4 swapped mach 1..... so many questions

That invoice is hard to decipher. At least now you've verified 'some' work was done and they didn't just transplant an engine. I didn't see a crankshaft and rods? The stock crank should be fine at up to 500rwho.. but the rods are suspect.

It just seems a lot of work for 300rwhp.. assuming it's wheel and not SAE..

Hesitation at top end? Not a TO bearing. A TO bearing would be making a grinding/thrashing noise (different levels of volume depending how far gone) that stops when you push the clutch in. A hesitation at top end.. start with fuel. Make sure the fuel filter has been changed recently and if still a hesitation go to a competent tuner and let them tell you what's happening when the power falls off. Probably fuel. Probably Mach 1 injectors for a 4.6L engine being used on a 5.4L you're trying to get more power on. I'd guess a stock 5.4: should have 24lb injectors. If you get a quality set you could go bigger, say 60lbs and it won't cost you more.. but your tuner would have to immediately adjust for them.. Just because an injector can put out 60lbs, doesn't mean it can't be tuned for 24lbs. Ask you rtuner about thiis. As your power peaks he'll pick up different things.. fuel, MAF, air restrictions, ignition.. A good tuner is like your lawyer.. if you pay for their advise.. take it. No one will know better about what's happening with your engine.

Also.. get an oil analysis before doing anything. Make sure the guy you bought this from didn't know something was amiss with the new build. Check out these guys.. they've been good to me: https://www.blackstone-labs.com/ If there's a problem, don't spend a dime more until that problem has been taken care of.. and that might mea a fresh build. Just check it first so you don't go throw a lot of money on things you think you need.. only to find the engine is junk..

The oil test is definitely something to do. So the engine is under warranty for 2 years, so looks like there is a year left. going to try and take it up there and have them check it out, maybe have it retuned. Just an FYI going back to the hesitation, the clutch pedal shakes as well. Something I'm having trouble is figuring out whether that is in fact a 75mm throttle body. I dont think the car had the intake/TB on when it got dynoed. Shot him a message to confirm but something is up. BTW I'm currently overseas so my buddy has my car, so its hard to tell exactly what exactly happens with the hesitation and shaking in the clutch pedal.

An oil analysis is something I do religiously after a new build, especially during a warranty period. Detecting problems early is key to not losing it all.

No idea on the TB, but if it wasn't on the car it's an issue with tuning. I hope.. really hope.. you're buddy isn't out there pushing the car at the top end. Fuel issues might be the number one way to ruin an enginne, right up there with detonating.. You become starved for fuel, your AFR drops, engine goes poof. I'd tell your buddy to park it until it can get on the dyno and you know what's going on.

When I was stationed overseas (Japan, Korea) I got into the local flavor of cars. One story I tell is that while in Japan, back in the 80's.. all the cars where white or black. Mostly white. A car with color was unheard of. But when you'd go out at night for fun and were bleary eyed, it could take a while to find your car. So I went to the auto shop and found leftover paint and sprayed my Toyota Crown Royale an obnoxious green. And it stood out everywhere. My gosh it stood out and people would stare. That Crown Royale was a turbo charged monster.. one of the best cars I ever owned. It straddled luxury and performance like no other car did. But the odd thing, it was in the next year that flashy color Japanese cars became a thing.. soon they were called tuner cars. I can't help but think I started something.. People think I'm making this up.. but the other day I found this picture... That was my campsite when I took my Korean GF camping in Japan..which wasa bit odd I suppose. If the weather was good we took the Harley. Check out the local car scene, who knows.. you might start something..

It would be so wild to see that car again..

Torque Thrust wheels look good on older mustangs.. some of them. I really don't like them on newer models.

Are you sure you want to do new tires and then have it sit? Tires have an finite life span, only so many heat and cool down cycles before they loose their mojo, and they'll get flat spots in days. I've had to store my 99' for years at a time and I went to lengths to keep flat spots at bay, but never did beat the age. I learned to just get new tires righit before I started driving it again.

You'll also want to be careful with your tank.. removing and flushing it out before starting the car after it's been stored will pay big. I've got some stories about when a Ford Dealer said they did that for me.. they were supposed to go to my storage a few blocks away, tow the car back, flush the tank and lines, and get the car ready for me. They charged me for all that and other work I wanted done.. but drove it from the storage and never flushed the tank or lines. I ended up getting stuck while on the road, two sets of injectors, a ticket for excessive smoke of all things.. anyway, the insurance took care of it after a long fight..

Saving the 64 pounds is significant. More significant is the improved geometry, ability to use different A arms, coil overs, etc, etc.. and more. A K member is something you should consider doing as part of a system. As part of a system there is value there.. especially if you can now use components you couldn't before. But as a standalone.. your money is better spent elsewhere. Suspension period should be done as a system. Not front, not rear, but both.. And your body should be stabilized with preferably a matrix brace, f&r shock tower braces, and whatever else is called for. I went with Kenny Brown.. he designs and produces his stuff here in the USA and more importantly, he races his stuff. This is a lot different from crap that's built in China or Taiwan or somewhere, not part of a comprehensive system, and has never been proven.

Many guys buy "a k brace" or "coilovers" or whatever.. just so they can say they have one like it gives them street cred or something. Only install what you need to meet your objectives. No more. And only spend on quality proven gear.. nothing else is worth your time and especially your money.

500-600rwhp is totally doable, especially if they built your short block right. I'm making over 500rwhp out of a stock DOHC 4.6L and 10lbs of boost. A 5.4L, depending on your heads and assuming your shortblock is solid.. and say 9--10lbs of boost.. AND an upgraded fuel system. should easily get you to 600rwhp provided the tune is legit..

Why 500-600? What are your goals? Drag strip, road race? Street? You can have a lot of fun on the street with 400rwhp. You certainly don't want to end up in jail or dead.. these guys with 1000rwhp street cars.. why.. Unless you regularly also use them on the track somewhere it's a waste. Many just want a certain power level because it sounds good Don't be that guy. Have a purpose and meet that purpose with style by making sure your power is reliable, well cooled for all conditions, and the driveability is such that you can enjoy the car.

Wow, yeah my buddy has been trying to get me away from a k member and all that, says its a waste of time for my needs.

But what i really want to do is make it a street car for now with the intention of taking it to the track whenever i can. I don't want to modify it too much (the body) to keep the classic Mach 1 muscle car feel. but i may want to make it strictly a drag car and still be able to take it to shows on the weekend. I don't know how to still keep that in play and be conservative in my spending.

So my buddy is in the Air Force as well, he's driving it around every now and then to keep everything in working order. he deploys here in a few months, so its either going into government storage while I'm overseas (they take care of it apparently... starting it and keeping it off the wheels, etc.) or it going into a storage unit on jack stands. These tires I literally got where the cheapest summer performance tires i could get to last me a few seasons. because im going to get wheels for drag on my old wheels.

For K member... unless you need the clearance or really REALLY want the weight savings I say just do a set of bushings/balljoints in the stock A arms or get the BMR A arms with spring perches and call it good. The stock K member geometry is actually very good, some quality bushings/a arms, springs/struts, CC plates and a full refresh of the endlinks/balljoints/swaybar brackets will go a lot longer of a ways to get you where you want to be than the K member. And if you are dead nuts set on it and I'm assuming this car will be for drag with that heavy ass 5.4 iron block up front... UPR mild steel with spring perches, the BMR A arms with spring perches and roll. If you want to go coilovers... well UPR is good but they are noisy. MM makes the best stuff but the weight savings on their K is minimal over the stock stamped unit although it is strong AF. MM is more for handling too, same with the Steeda K. I'd love to do the Steeda K myself with the BMR arms but at that point I'm near $1500 plus needing to refresh some other stuff and the full MM K package is $1800... so... It all depends on your budget and what you want to do. BUDGET that will do well is to go get some Termi Bilstein takeoff struts, send them out to Bilstein to be rebuilt, springs of your choice, BMR A arms, stock K, MM or Steeda CC plates and there you go for the front end. The back end... well for a drag car the 4 link can do fine in a straight line but corners... hell no. 3 link or IRS or just stick to the 1/4 mile and go easy around corners on the street. There is the Steeda 5 link too but that looks like a nightmare to install even more than a TA/PHB. I did an IRS swap with the full bushing upgrade from FTBR by myself in a garage on my back with a floor jack and hand tools.

Yep, far too many people don't realize the value of having a knowledgeable shop do the work. They just buy parts and have Fred at the local Jiffy Lube slap them in. This goes to my personal opinion most people aren't really about performance, but rather just being able to say they have this or that part..


OP, do check out Kenny Brown's offerings. I like MM too, not so much Steeda though I have a set of their original forged wheels on my car.. Kenny races what he sells and when you compare the parts side by side you'll come away impressed. His K member for instance, the features:
AGS 3.0 Light-weight Tubular Front K-Member

Strongest, Best Engineered, “Bolt-In” K-Member available on the aftermarket!

Adds 1” to wheel base for incredible balance, steering, grip and braking
Lightweight, strong design takes 40 lbs. off front of car
Increased anti-dive for better braking performance
Stabilizes camber curve in cornering
Reduced roll center migration in cornering
Maximizes tire contact patch to maximize grip
Competition proven - available for street, open track or race

The Advanced Geometry Tubular K-Member optimizes Kenny Brown’s “fixed strut” advanced geometry suspension design for superior handling, grip, and braking with a distinct European sports car performance feel. The Tubular K-member reduces overall weight by 40 pounds over factory and improves weight distribution and balance by extending the wheelbase forward by one inch improving the roll center envelope, camber gain, toe curve greatly improving the handling performance. Designed to be used in conjunction with the Kenny Brown Tubular Front Lower Control Arms and coil-over shock package.