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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm interesting in getting the Borgeson steering shaft with vibration reducer for my Fox to cut down on slop and get a more precise steering feel. I see Maximum Motorsports simply buys the Borgeson units and welds them. Is there any issues with just getting the shaft straight from Borgeson? Do the set screws constantly loosen up or something, making the welded shaft beneficial? I don't even think MM offers the vib reducer model in welded form.
 

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I’ve used several flaming river shafts (which are very similar to borgeson) and I’ll tell you just get the mm shaft. It’s much easier with the telescopic shaft as opposed to set screws and jam nuts. I installed my first one a few months ago and it’s so much easier.
 
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Jack Hidley explained why the MM shaft was a telescoping design. I think i still remember the gist of it. He emphasized that the steering rack doesn't like to have preload on the input downwards into the rack as it would cause premature failures. The telescoping design allowed for flexibility in install as well as eliminating that extra load on the rack.


I have the MM shaft on my car. Personally, I would rather not worry about set screws loosening up or potential issues with a cobbled together shaft, and like the MM design. I also like the fact that it's widely used, proven, and not prone to failures (i know of none). I will gladly pay more for something that's been vetted out and simply not worth my time to try and fab up my own shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks. I guess in my searches here, I was unaware the Maximum adds the telescoping feature. Sevral post seemed to make out that it was the same part, only welded. My bad. The need for the telescoping feature to avoid loading the rack in normal operation without the factory rag joint in place makes sense.

Since Maximum doesn't offer the vibration reducer feature, how bad are any vibrations transmitted back up to the steering wheel? Road feel is fine. I just don't want a steering wheel constantly humming and vibrating in my hands. Thanks.
 

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Same here, I have put several of the MM shafts on. The road feel gets much better, but I can't say there's any significant vibration transmission. One of these was a 4 cylinder application, which if there was going to be any vibration, it should have had it with the little 2.3L. I really like MM design, telescoping, and has a spline at the top. That spline is nice when the steering wheel is a little bit off, just take the bolt out of the spline clamp, slip the two halves apart, turn it where you want it and reinstall. Simplifies things; and lets you center the rack properly. The way that the SN95 racks are designed, if you simply install a u-joint on the end of a stock shaft with the proper end for the SN95 rack, the steering wheel will be 90 degrees off. You can't adjust that out unless you turn one tie rod all the way in and the other all the way out. At that point it will turn really tight (and tires will probably rub) in one direction and then when you turn to lock the other way it will take a 50 acre field to turn it around. Centering the rack is important. And yes I've made my own shaft in the past too using an SN95 shaft attached to a fox body upper u-joint. Not hard to do but you gotta get it centered up correctly the first time, tack it, then remove & weld, then reinstall. Not as much fun.

also the telescoping shaft has some benefit during a crash as well, obviously.
 

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I have the Borgeson shaft with some fairly serious hardware, including a PA Racing K-member and heavy suspension mods. I have had zero issues with the supposed "set screw loosening" ordeal and drive my car pretty damn hard with 30K miles on the build.
 
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