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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok, i blew the auto today so can someone please shed some light on this subject for me,Im going to swap to the t-5 but want to know what would be problems, im really looking at the super duty t-5 but noticed that it has a 7 tooth speedo gear and 94 mustangs had a 8 tooth gear with the original t-5. Has anyone put a "world class t-5 in their 94 or 95 stang and please let me know what problems you encountered..ALSO, what all will I need for the swap?? I know some but dont want to start on it and not have everything i need....Thanks in advance...Dave

Please e-mail me at [email protected]
 

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Just completed the swap...

I just finished the swap over the holidays. Took awhile just because I have a new baby in the house and a 4 year old so I've been working in bits and pieces.

There are excellent instructions on www.alfordmustangs.com in their tech section, very detailed.

I ordered my parts directly from Delk Performance and transmission and yoke from D&D Transmissions.

Comparing prices to my friend who also did the install, I think my "kit" from Delk was the same price as him shopping for every piece--and paying shipping for everypiece (My bud is a hard shopper so I'll so go with Delk, good prices and much easier and a HUGE time saver in getting parts.)

My only complaint is that the Clutch Kit didn't have a clutch pilot tool...not a big deal, but not fun huting down a 26 spline GM pilot tool in the middle of an install.

Problems.... Hmmm, there were little things that aren't covered, but you do need a heads-up.

1.) If you have a Kenne Bell blower, AND you have an adjustable clutch at the firewall, install the adjustable clutch BEFORE you put in the pedals. Also, the adjuster will be hard to reach because of the KB.

2.) Get an adjustable clutch cable, much easier with one.

3.) If you get a TKO, install the tranny before cutting the tunnel. You need to cut far "up" but not wide! If you get a T-5 you'll have to cut before you put in the transmission. I just say this, because it will be a cleaner cut and easier install for the dust shield. (meaning you can line it up like in the instructions with the two rear holes and drill new holes in the front. If not, you'll have to "turn" and fiddle with the dust shield to make it fit and drill 4 new holes versus two (no biggie, just cleaner".

4.) Get GM synchromesh fluids.

5.) Package every part of the job (removal of seats) bolts, nuts, etc. into a Glad bag so you know what goes where when its time to put things back together.

6.) Get a tranny jack, and if you have air tools use your air wrench to raise and lower it (www.harborfreight.com) I got mine on sale for like $50. The jack I have uses a 1/2 inch drive to raise and lower it. Best money I spent. I used it to support the brace and later to lift and align the brace, transmission, and X-pipe.

7.) Go through and make sure you have all the parts. I was a bit rushed and didn't check my parts because of the Holiday rush and what not...missing some small stuff--just took time to get it; loc-tite, engine oil (did an oil change while I had it up on stands), little stuff like that will kill you. Make sure you have the righ ttools, torque bits for the console, torque wrenches, etc., etc.)

8.) Having friends around for moral support is a good idea.

9.) Definitely take out the driver's seat.

10.) Stuff that will slow you down are old, stuck, or rounded off bolts. Taking my starter off took like two hours because the top bolt was stripped. (Oh yeah, that adds time, replacing stripped bolts, lost nuts, etc.).

can't think of anything else off the top of my head, but I'll think about it.

Best thing though is call Delk and have them put the stuff together for you.

The "pieces" will cost you around $900. Added costs and considerations are shifter (one comes with the D&D transmission but if you want Steeda or Pro-M add a $200. GM Synchromesh is $10 a bottle you'll need 3 bottles and a 1,000 miles later 3 more bottles (need to change thet ransmission oil after a 1,000 miles.)

Break in the clutch easy, go easy on it for 1,000 miles. I'd recommend an adjustable clutch cable. Your transmission is your other big cost. I could have done the swap for a lot less, but I went with a new TKO. My total was around $2500 after all was said and done, but my clutch was about $200 more than the King Cobra (stuff like that.)

If you have any questions, please feel free to e-mail me.
 

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I'm in the middle of swapping a T5 (which I blew) to a 4R70W. A 4R70W from a '99 V6 Mustang will handle LOTS more power than a stock AOD or a T5, even a Tremec 3550 or TKO. With the right converter it'll be quicker and the swap will be easier for you, but maybe not cheaper-the transmission will be cheaper ($400 in a boneyard) but a good conveter is expensive. I have some details on what you have to do to put a '99 V6 4R70W into a '94-95 on my website...

http://home.columbus.rr.com/dlasota/page6.html
 

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be careful Don

We don't want to give the 4r70w secret away to too many people....
hehehe... (evil laugh)

Don 95Vert said:
I'm in the middle of swapping a T5 (which I blew) to a 4R70W. A 4R70W from a '99 V6 Mustang will handle LOTS more power than a stock AOD or a T5, even a Tremec 3550 or TKO. With the right converter it'll be quicker and the swap will be easier for you, but maybe not cheaper-the transmission will be cheaper ($400 in a boneyard) but a good conveter is expensive. I have some details on what you have to do to put a '99 V6 4R70W into a '94-95 on my website...

http://home.columbus.rr.com/dlasota/page6.html
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks but no thanks guys, im sick of auto's , and will either do a tremec or world class but need to know what all parts i need, so i dont get caught without them...Dave
 
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