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Best way to modify a 1986 5.0

1264 Views 26 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  tmoss
Hey y'all i got a 86 GT aod which just crossed 130k miles. Car is stock and has been my daily for about a year and recently wanted to start modifying it. What mods could make me more power for relatively low cost or even a engine rebuild as it is 37 years old any and all help is appreciated thanks!
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After having owned an 86 as a first car all through high school (I loved it)

In my opinion...

The best bang for your buck would be to add boost. An On3 kit will fit it just fine (I installed one on mine without issue) and if you've got the means to do so gap the rings for cheap insurance. The HO motors have flat top pistons so piston to valve clearance can be an issue if you're wanting to just swap in a shelf cam.
A moates quarterhorse used to be the way to go for tuning the speed density cars. Now that they're out of business you may have to find another route.

I think some trick flow heads will work with the flat tops if you want to do heads, cam and intake but I am by no means educated on that so don't take my word for it.

The plus side of a turbo kit, is if you buy a sh1tty wastegate, youre guaranteed to end up rebuilding the engine.
since the 86 302 doesnt have valve reliefs, i would start building a separate engine and swap it. or you will have to grind valve reliefs. you wont be able to do anything for heads or cam otherwise

find a 302 from a 96-01 Explorer 5.0, at least it will be 10+ years newer, have GT40/P heads, GT40 intake, and they are pretty cheap
Rock4551 ran 119mph in the 1/4 with a stock 86 bottom end. No need to toss it.
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since the 86 302 doesnt have valve reliefs, i would start building a separate engine and swap it. or you will have to grind valve reliefs. you wont be able to do anything for heads or cam otherwise

find a 302 from a 96-01 Explorer 5.0, at least it will be 10+ years newer, have GT40/P heads, GT40 intake, and they are pretty cheap
I was thinking about swapping in an explorer engine but im not to sure how much of a hassle it would be for wiring and getting it to fit with the aod. I'd rather use the 302 in the mustang already and try its potential
After having owned an 86 as a first car all through high school (I loved it)

In my opinion...

The best bang for your buck would be to add boost. An On3 kit will fit it just fine (I installed one on mine without issue) and if you've got the means to do so gap the rings for cheap insurance. The HO motors have flat top pistons so piston to valve clearance can be an issue if you're wanting to just swap in a shelf cam.
A moates quarterhorse used to be the way to go for tuning the speed density cars. Now that they're out of business you may have to find another route.

I think some trick flow heads will work with the flat tops if you want to do heads, cam and intake but I am by no means educated on that so don't take my word for it.

The plus side of a turbo kit, is if you buy a sh1tty wastegate, youre guaranteed to end up rebuilding the engine.
My 86 is my first car too and i love it. i think i might swap pistons or grind in valve reliefs to fit gt40 heads, intake and maybe a cam. Im more than likely going to do these first since they are wallet friendly compared to the turbo kit.
Rock4551 ran 119mph in the 1/4 with a stock 86 bottom end. No need to toss it.
I dont want to toss out the 302, its a great engine just that upgrades are a little tricky.
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ls swap it.
i've thought about it but i dont feel like doing all that work when i got a perfectly running car already.
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My personal 86 experience.
1. Keep it speed density.
2. TFS twisted wedge heads
3. Comp XE270HR14 cam specifically for SD
4. Edelbrock performer rpm2 intake
5. 24# injectors
6. Wideband and adj. FPR.
7. 150-175HP wet kit if you need more.

The SD can handle of these mods NP.
tune for WOT AFRs 12.5-12.8 with the afpr.

Car will make around 320RWHP on motor… 450s on spray, mid 11s on motor mid 10s on spray and just clap cheeks.
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My personal 86 experience.
1. Keep it speed density.
2. TFS twisted wedge heads
3. Comp XE270HR14 cam specifically for SD
4. Edelbrock performer rpm2 intake
5. 24# injectors
6. Wideband and adj. FPR.
7. 150-175HP wet kit if you need more.

The SD can handle of these mods NP.
tune for WOT AFRs 12.5-12.8 with the afpr.

Car will make around 320RWHP on motor… 450s on spray, mid 11s on motor mid 10s on spray and just clap cheeks.
What could i use to be able to tune the obd1 sd computer and would the tfs 170 twisted wedge heads work with the flat tops due to clearance even though im still going to check the clearances anyways
My 86 is my first car too and i love it. i think i might swap pistons or grind in valve reliefs to fit gt40 heads, intake and maybe a cam. Im more than likely going to do these first since they are wallet friendly compared to the turbo kit.
As far as the grinding tools go, there was a thread on here earlier where a guy was asking about them. It’s not the “right” way to do it, but it works. Another way to go would be a nitrous kit. The zex wet kits are dirt cheap and come with their own controller.
Yes, twisted wedge heads will clear the true flat top pistons, the cam I used cleared by a mile and is SD friendly.

you are not going to need to tune the computer at all, you will put the combo together and log AFRs of the wideband, if it’s a bit fat you may use the AFPR to pull a lb or 2 of fuel pressure until your WOT fueling is spot on.
Timing will be bumped up to 14* initial on 93 pump.
YOU WILL NEED TO PULL TIMIMG THOUGH IF YOU SPRAY. I would use race gas to up octane and pull 4* on a 150 shot, from reading what the plugs liked, auto lite 23s
Probably put a 255lph in tank pump in also.
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Yes, twisted wedge heads will clear the true flat top pistons, the cam I used cleared by a mile and is SD friendly.

you are not going to need to tune the computer at all, you will put the combo together and log AFRs of the wideband, if it’s a bit fat you may use the AFPR to pull a lb or 2 of fuel pressure until your WOT fueling is spot on.
Timing will be bumped up to 14* initial on 93 pump.
YOU WILL NEED TO PULL TIMIMG THOUGH IF YOU SPRAY. I would use race gas to up octane and pull 4* on a 150 shot, from reading what the plugs liked, auto lite 23s
Probably put a 255lph in tank pump in also.
Got it, so i need to look into a wideband kit with gauge to be able to log it on wot and get a afpr to adjust the pressure with the new injectors and pump. What would be the optimal afr and pressure with the set up? sorry for the dumb questions im new at this :confused:
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The stock heads are trash, it depends how much money you want to spend. I'd suggest gears, baumann shift kit and a stall converter first, then get into the engine, 11R heads, cam, 1 3/4 longtubes. good exhaust
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My 86 5.0 coupe was my first car I bought in 1990 at 16yrs old, still own and drive it still. It was a factory 5.0 AOD 3.27 geared mustang. Like David said above, start with gears, shift kit and exhaust. I did just that to mine in 90-91. 4.10 gears, 2800rpm converter, TransGo shift kit and exhaust mods. Went from running 15.20's to 13.30's on hard street tires and the engine was bone stock except for a K&N and pulley kit.
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I always wondered how much of a difference gears would’ve made in my car.

My 86 had a T5 and 3.08s (I think?)
The thing would eat my buddies trans am for lunch on the street but at the track it was the other way around. Best ET I could manage was a 15.5 @ 88 on street tires with basic suspension upgrades. He was in the mid 13s if I recall.
I was thinking about swapping in an explorer engine but im not to sure how much of a hassle it would be for wiring and getting it to fit with the aod. I'd rather use the 302 in the mustang already and try its potential
using the 96-early97 Explorer 5.0 as long block is basicly direct swap. the late97-01 with P heads will require headers i think due to spark plug angle

im not very familiar withthe 86 other than they have less desireable heads and no valve reliefs. is it even EFI? roller cam? metric piston rings? 1-piece rear main?

ive gotten to the point that im lazy and id rather pay for a pulled engine than pull it myself. ive pulled an Explorer 5.0 and a few sets of heads and im done doing that. i use www.car-part.com to find the Explorer 5.0 and in my area thats around 400-600 bucks. ive seen GT40 heads sell for that price before machining. i feel the labor to cut reliefs alone is more than worth it to me.
No need to cut valve reliefs with a custom cam. A custom cam can be designed to work around not having valve reliefs. Contact Mr.Ed Curtis at FlowTech Inductions for a custom cam.
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