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So I've decided to go with a 302/t5 setup. I need everyone's opinion as I will be doing all the work myself. Beginning as a 2.3/A4LD what all will I need to do? I know I have to change the rear-end to a 8.8 and up. I know If I go with carb setup I will have to go with a low pressure fuel pump. It was be best for me to grab a t5 from a 94-04 mustang as they are better than all previous years as far as torque and hp limitations. I know these trannies require a slight mod (shaft) to work in foxbody. My question is do I need to grab a specific years 302 to pair up with this specific t5(94-04). Should I grab an explorer roller block or is a 351w a good pair w a t5? I'm just in the research stage now. Thanks for all you guys' knowledge, it's highly appreciated!
 

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Only change to a 94-95 T-5 would be to swap the input shaft and bearing retainer for a Fox unit. After that, it would be essentially a 90-93 T-5 and can use the fox bellhousing
 

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The best version of the t5 is the Z spec box and is your best option. Not cheap but worth it. If you install a decent shifter with stops, a rear cluster support plate and shim it real tight, it will take quite alot of torque. I ran mine behind a mild 408 for 2 yrs and it didn't give me any troubles. Of course you can't expect to power shift it or dump the clutch at 4k on slicks.
 

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because of the age of used T5's from fox body and SN95 cars, figure on rebuilding it--or at the minimum, pull it apart and inspect. They're most all worn, unless you KNOW it's history, and/or have documentation of a legitimate rebuild/repair.

No, I don't trust anyone anymore.

So if you have to rebuild a T5, price the cost of what you pay for the transmission + the rebuild parts. A full rebuild kit (bearings, seals, synchro's) is going to be $500+ and that does not include any damaged hard parts (gears, shafts). Some of the kits don't come with bronze fork pads either. Shop wisely.

A new T5Z can be found for under $1800 if you shop around. That's still a chunk of change but everything's NEW and not "rebuilt". If you paid $500-$600 for a used transmission and then had to put $500+ into a rebuild, you're halfway to a brand new one--and still have a used transmisison. If you have to replace a gear? LOL...they ain't cheap anymore. Hence the reason I did not buy a used transmission for my 92. My brother got duped on a TKO600, guy said it's guaranteed good...paid $1200 for it, installed it and found out that it won't stay in 3rd. So it's gotta come back out and likely needs a slider and a gear or two at the minimum.

Sn95 trans will work fine in a fox body and it's already been discussed how to make it work. The other way to do it is to use the SN95 bellhousing. Doing this will move the shifter back a little which isn't a huge issue, in fact as tall as I am and as far as I have the seat moved back, I need the shifter back a little--which is why I relocated it with a simple bracket that bolts to the transmission, then the shift handle bolts to the bracket, about 2" rearward give or take.

302 vs 351. Obviously the 351 has a lot more torque and a whole lot more capability for more power later on but it's not a direct bolt in. It fits the 5.0 engine mounts just fine, and the bellhousing is identical to a 5.0/302 BUT that's really where the similarities end as far as installation. Headers, different and more expensive. Intake, hood (you will need a cowl hood unless you drop the K-member down, which screws up the control arm, steering, suspension geometry), and a ton of other things. It's discussed in depth in other threads, research them. I did a 351 in my 92 and while it's got a LOT of power, it's also honestly too much for a street car with normal street tires. Anything over 1/2 throttle in the first 2 gears is instantaneous wheel spin. 3rd you have to feather it. In the cold air, in 4th when it's making power (like 85+ mph, it can also spin-but these tires are old and harder than a brick. For just a fun cruiser, stick with a 5.0, it fits better, it's designed for the chassis, and you won't have to mess with putting in a heavier duty transmission. If you are just building a normal 5.0/302, say 350hp max, a 7.5 rear end will live a while so long as you're not dumping the clutch with slicks or drag radials. If you rattle the tires, the 7.5 will break. Don't forget that pre-1986 cars were all 7.5's, 5.0 or 2.3 they were the same rear end (except LSD). I have a 7.5 in my turbo car, and I have over 40,000 miles on it as of today, so they're tougher than we give them credit for but they aren't indestructible. I broke 3 of them in other cars, one was a 2.3T the other two were in the same 5.0 84 Mustang.
 
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