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I plan to build a carbed 351 to go 10's on just motor. there are many different stroker kits available and I want to know which one will last the longest on a bracket car?? Which kit offers the best bore and stroke ratio for a motor with 13:0-1 or higher compression?? I was originally thinking 408 but was talked out of it due to the rod ratio. I could do it with a 357 but don't wanna turn it to the moon to get there. I am planning a Jerico 4 spd and have a rear already built with 4:10's but may step it up to 4:30's or 4:56's. The Jerico's gears will most likely be customized to my setup. I have not yet decided on rear tire height but am leaning toward 28" or 29" tall.

would it be better to run 377cid or maybe a little less?? The motor will have to hold up to weekend warrior racing. I am also looking to build it with reputable internals and heads, cam, intake. Would like to keep it around $8K or less if possible.

anyone have any recommendations??
 

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10s for $8K are going to be tough. You certainly can't get there if your total budget is $8K, but if the $8K is just for the motor, you can probably make it. Be sure to get the rule book and learn it inside and out for the track and class you plan to run in. The first thing to study are the safety requirements and any weight and engine size requirements. This may determine exactly what you want to do.

The key is the weight of the car & driver. That determines how much power you will ultimately need. Once you know what weight you can have in your class, strip the car of all unnecessary weight, move the battery to the trunk, etc. for starters. Stiffen the front suspension just a little and get some skinny tires and wheels. Then go to the tech section and figure out how much HP you need for a bare minimum and plan on 20-30% extra for insurance.

You will need a roll cage, scatter shield, solid tranny, drive shaft, gears, axles, sub-frame connectors, etc. You will have to run some fairly tall slicks and will therefore probably want adjustable control arms. You will have to experiment around with the proper pinion angle based on your tire height, suspension and launch techniques. You will have to get your 60' time to 1.5 or better to compete.

Once you know how many horses you need you can decide what engine to build based on the cubes and compression ratio combos that will be required. About 12:1 compression ratio is where you will start having some serious tuning and reliability problems. You will need balanced & blueprinted, forged components for the short block. You will also have to turn some pretty good rpms so plan on lots of cam and have the pistons cut pretty deep. Do all of your cam math before you buy the pistons and then tell the vendor how much lift you will have so they can cut the pistons and still keep the compression you need.

Spend lots of money on your heads and have them completely ported and polished. There are many good ones to choose from. I prefer the Edelbrocks and the Victors will be nice for what you are trying to do.

Get a great cooling system and add some solid exhaust. You will need 1 3/4 or larger headers. The long tubes will work best and then add some 3" exhaust and high flow mufflers if required. Otherwise just run the headers open for max power. This will also depend on the class you choose to run in to memorize that rule book.

Tens are not cheap and easy unless you just like to read about them in magazines. Reliable tens are even more expensive. But are lots of fun.
 

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Couple corrections here based on my buddy's '87 'vert. Currently runs 11.1s @ 125. Backed by a Tremec 3550, 4.30s, spool, 28x12.5 ET streets. Spec Stage 3 clutch.

First......do the match for the mph you'll need and the 4.30 or 4.56 gears and 28" tires. You WILL be spinning a bit of rpm to get there. 150-175 shot of nitrous and it runs 10.4s @ 13?

You don't need balanced, blueprinted, forged, pro-ported stuff. You don't need big compression. And you can certainly do it for under $8k.

Here's what I've seen work on his car:

- basic 351 shortblock - Keith Black flattops, stock rods w/ ARP bolts, stock crank. NO balancing. 10:1'ish compression
- home cleanup Windsor Sr. irons. Flows 260ish range if I remember right.
- Comp Cams 294S solid flat tappet cam
- Crane gold rockers
- C&S aeresol 750 dp
- Vic Jr intake
- BBK 1 3/4" longtubes w/ full 3" exhaust dumped b4 axle
- manual rack, moroso water pump drive

Spins it to near 7k. No dyno numbers but the car weighs approx. 3300 staged. Combo is going in a light coupe this season. It'll run 10s.
 
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