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I just got a 93 and rebuilt the motor, wjile I was at it I put on some bbk shortie headers, when installing the acesories in the car I saw the botom hose of the smog pump was resting on the header so I used some zip ties to try to get them out of the way. Well it gave it about an inch clearance. But the first time we got back from a spin aroubnd the block there was a burning smell and it is that lower rubber hose on the smog pump.

Is there anything I can do besides take off the smog pump? Anyone else run into this delima?
 

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When I installed my MAC equal shorties a few years ago I had the same problem.

I was able to trim one of the hoses to make it shorter for clearance. My problem was the one that has the curve in it, I trimmed the end to make it shorter, and no more problem.
 

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Bill Lumberg said:
I just got a 93 and rebuilt the motor, wjile I was at it I put on some bbk shortie headers, when installing the acesories in the car I saw the botom hose of the smog pump was resting on the header so I used some zip ties to try to get them out of the way. Well it gave it about an inch clearance. But the first time we got back from a spin aroubnd the block there was a burning smell and it is that lower rubber hose on the smog pump.

Is there anything I can do besides take off the smog pump? Anyone else run into this delima?
Had the same problems with my longtubes. I just tie wrapped them out of the way, but they still touched sometimes. So where it was touching I put a whole bunch of ultra copper. Never burned the tube since.

Greg
 

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Sorry if this sounds ignorant what exactly is ultra copper? And you put it on the rubber hose or the header. I am just asking because nethier me or my dad has heard of such a thing.
 

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Same thing happened when I use to run MAC equals. What I did was loosen up the clamps holding the AIR valve and turned it sideways to help hold the lower AIR line clear of the header pipe. The lower hose that ran from the AIR valve to the H-Pipe air tube used to burn on the header primary. By turning the valve to the side and then tightening the clamps back down, it kept the hose from touching the header.

See if that helps!
 

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mine did the same thing. i just tied them up to something sturdy up higher in the engine compartment. been that way for 5 months with no probs.
 

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Bill Lumberg said:
Sorry if this sounds ignorant what exactly is ultra copper? And you put it on the rubber hose or the header. I am just asking because nethier me or my dad has heard of such a thing.
It's made by Permatex, the same people who make RTV silicone blue. It's a silicone gasket maker for high temperature applications. You can get it at any hardware store.

Greg
 

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Or you can do this....

get rid of the air valve. Plug all of the exposed hose ends/connections. I used a pipe cap on the tube that comes from the rear of the motor. I just let the air pump spin freely. Of course my car is far from emissions legal so I don't think about it. My only relation is that when I discovered that my air valve's curvedhose was melted I just got rid of it all. Maybe not what you can do but it is an option.

Stanman
 

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Re: Or you can do this....

StanMan said:
get rid of the air valve. Plug all of the exposed hose ends/connections. I used a pipe cap on the tube that comes from the rear of the motor. I just let the air pump spin freely. Of course my car is far from emissions legal so I don't think about it. My only relation is that when I discovered that my air valve's curvedhose was melted I just got rid of it all. Maybe not what you can do but it is an option.

Stanman
Ya its already got an off road h on it. But I did not know if that smog pump being gone makes the car run funny.
 

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Rip that sucker off of there !! I did . My car runs great with out it. Plus you shave about 20 pounds.... Maybe gain a little HP too !!
 

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I had the same problem with BBK equal-lengths and found wrapping each hose with Thermo-Shield tape fixed the problem. I just disconnected each hose, wrapped it tight with the thermo-shield tape and made sure the tape went under the hose clamps so it didn't unravel. I then used some regular tie straps to make sure it was about an inch or more away from the headers. Make sure you take your time wrapping the hoses. The better you wrap it, the longer it will last. I also got a clamp from Home Depot to hold my metal air conditioning line up and out of the way so the header no longer heated it up. The clamp is metal and looks like a "P" with rubber on the inside to hold the hose tight.

You can get the Thermo Shield tape from www.summitracing.com and 15 feet of it is only $14.95. They say it protects radiant heat up to 2,000 degrees. The part number for the one I bought was THE-14002.
 
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