Ford Mustang Forums banner

21 - 37 of 37 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
467 Posts
With a stick? Or auto?
AoD with lockup 3800 stall Edge converter. At the time I was running with stock block 302 with OOTB Canfield heads, ported Corbra intake, custom cam, and 1 5/8" long tube headers. I think my best was a 11.75 with the 1.56 60 ft.


Unless you had the MTs sealed up tight, age still makes a difference in the hook. You are absolutely killing the back half, so any kind of traction will put you in the low 11s if not high 10s.
 

·
Formerly LSNotch
Joined
·
823 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
no i just didn't get why people invest hard earned money on a nice engine setup and then go to the track without ever having the car tuned...

- get the car tuned then head back to the track

- on 17" drag radials i'd experiment with a quick dry burnout in 1st vs a longer wetted one in 2nd
(if you're NOT running skinnies up front than go around the water box, back into it, wet the tire, pull up little and then 2nd gear burnout.)

also, don't take any advise from auto guys given that you run a manual :salute:
I hear you and appreciate the advice. I normally don’t go to the track until I know everything is good to go, but like I said in my beginning post this car was supposed to be running like a year ago and lots of set backs prevented it. The track is about to close at the end of October and really just wanted a baseline. I already took care of the VE table it wasn’t too bad and it’s a lot smoother. More wrenching will be done through the winter to be prepared for the next season.

Btw, I normally do go around the water to do burnouts, but I don’t do dry burnouts nor recommend it with a sticky tire to avoid heating up the clutch too much. I wasn’t too concerned with getting the best times right away. I’m not stranger to drag racing with drag radials. Ran 1.5460ft before with the exact same tire brand and specs with a manual.

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,799 Posts
I'd be on a 26x8.5 or 26x10 bias ply slick for a stick car. I believe the Quick Time Pro from hoosier is the DOT slick and the ET Street (non radial) from M/T is DOT. Pretty hard to keep traction when you're shocking a radial.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
167 Posts
Keep your radials, you just need a clutch hit controller to make them work. What a clutch hit controller does is give you a consistent way to adjust how long the clutch slips after launch. The longer clutch slip time is stretched out, the softer the hit will be. That softer hit will make your stick shift car compatible with radials. That softer hit also allows raising launch rpm far higher, which makes quite a bit more stored energy available for the launch.

If your car had an automatic, 10's would be possible just by choosing the right converter. With a stick, you get there by controlling the hit of the clutch. The downside to a converter is that a proper converter for your current combo may not work well at future power levels. Put a hit controller on your Powergrip HD, the clutch you already have will work for both your current combo and most future upgrades.

Grant
 

·
Formerly LSNotch
Joined
·
823 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
Keep your radials, you just need a clutch hit controller to make them work. What a clutch hit controller does is give you a consistent way to adjust how long the clutch slips after launch. The longer clutch slip time is stretched out, the softer the hit will be. That softer hit will make your stick shift car compatible with radials. That softer hit also allows raising launch rpm far higher, which makes quite a bit more stored energy available for the launch.

If your car had an automatic, 10's would be possible just by choosing the right converter. With a stick, you get there by controlling the hit of the clutch. The downside to a converter is that a proper converter for your current combo may not work well at future power levels. Put a hit controller on your Powergrip HD, the clutch you already have will work for both your current combo and most future upgrades.

Grant
I used to do a controlled slip of the clutch on my previous car and although that worked quite well to plant the tires, the clutch didn’t last. I’m trying to avoid that this time as I’m not getting younger and pulling transmissions isn’t as fun anymore. If you can guarantee my clutch would last me a while, then I may consider it, otherwise I leave that for those that want to live under the car replacing clutches. Although understandably that replacing a clutch is better than replacing a transmission, still sucks either way.

Thanks

Epi
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
167 Posts
Sounds like the controlled clutch slip on your previous car wasn't actually controlled very well. Basically the clutch only needs to slip until the car is moving fast enough for the clutch to lock up at a reasonable rpm. If the clutch hits too hard, either it bogs the engine or spins the radials. If the clutch doesn't hit hard enough, the launch is lazy which abuses the clutch. Assuming you have a TKO 500 in your current car, it should only take about 0.8sec of actual clutch slipping to launch it properly with radials. Easy to do with a clutch hit controller, but it's going to cost you a lot of clutches to achieve that same level of precision with your foot.

Grant
 

·
Formerly LSNotch
Joined
·
823 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
Sounds like the controlled clutch slip on your previous car wasn't actually controlled very well. Basically the clutch only needs to slip until the car is moving fast enough for the clutch to lock up at a reasonable rpm. If the clutch hits too hard, either it bogs the engine or spins the radials. If the clutch doesn't hit hard enough, the launch is lazy which abuses the clutch. Assuming you have a TKO 500 in your current car, it should only take about 0.8sec of actual clutch slipping to launch it properly with radials. Easy to do with a clutch hit controller, but it's going to cost you a lot of clutches to achieve that same level of precision with your foot.

Grant
Sir,

PM sent! Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
353 Posts
Your car is definitely running strong man keep us posted on what tires and how you make out with it. I too struggle with traction issues i have a 427 stroker and tko600. I have heard good things about the hoosier quick time pros for stick cars.
 

·
Formerly LSNotch
Joined
·
823 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
Your car is definitely running strong man keep us posted on what tires and how you make out with it. I too struggle with traction issues i have a 427 stroker and tko600. I have heard good things about the hoosier quick time pros for stick cars.
Hi and thanks! My buddy keeps telling me to stop wasting time and get some slicks. I've always like the sleeper approach and if I could run 10s with radials I would. I just figure that installing the tubular k member I have sitting around with some 12/150 coil overs and possibly lighter wheels with 26x8/9 slicks will get me at least in the very low 11s and then fine tune from there. Thinking about a 6 point roll bar since I don't feel as safe in this car as I was in my previous 08 C6 that ran low 10s and it was my DD. I still have factory seats, A/C, P/S, full interior, cobra brakes all around and really heavy replica wheels. I'm still undecided if I want to go manual steering and maybe ditch the A/C. After all this isn't my DD, but once again, I love sleepers.

Btw, what's your full combo? So how bad are your traction issues? 11.0s with traction problems is nothing to sneeze at. If I could do it all over again I would've done a Dart based 408 stroker. Who knows? I like anything that makes power but mustangs are my passion. I am already contemplating what could be my next car lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
353 Posts
427 boss block
Afr205 heads
Comp cam street/strip 555/576 236/240 duration at .050
11.3:1 compression
Trickflow R intake
90mm throttle body
Tuned with a sct chip
3.55 rear gears.
 

·
Formerly LSNotch
Joined
·
823 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
427 boss block
Afr205 heads
Comp cam street/strip 555/576 236/240 duration at .050
11.3:1 compression
Trickflow R intake
90mm throttle body
Tuned with a sct chip
3.55 rear gears.
Do you remember at what rpms are you crossing the stripe?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
353 Posts
I wanna say about 6200 rpm.
 

·
Formerly LSNotch
Joined
·
823 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
I wanna say about 6200 rpm.
I have always heard that steeper ratio helps control some of the traction due to wheel speed. Not sure if that's really the case since I haven't really tested that theory.

Where does the engine power peaks at? It sounds like to you want to keep it really streetable with the 3.55s and TKO600. Sometimes it's hard to have both a street/strip car that is great on both aspects.
 

·
Formerly LSNotch
Joined
·
823 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
Made two more passes last night. I lowered the tire pressure to 17 and 16 respectively and loosened the struts. To my surprise it did gain traction and I wasn't expecting it getting so much better causing me to slip the clutch too long and taking a little longer to go WOT. The 60 foot weren't great at all, with both been in the high 1.90s running a 12.03 and 11.99 at 121mph. Trap speed tells me the 10 seconds potential is there.

One thing I noticed. I thought this should not happen when running speed density, but the passenger side valve cover breather popped out and the AFR ratio changed through the run (Leaner). Even the idle afterwards was leaner and how I figured something wasn't definitely right. Can someone with tuning knowledge can explain that one to me? I thought this is something that would only affect a MAF set up. Only thing I can think of it would be if there's a small leak at the intake manifold gaskets. The big opening at the valve cover would allow more air to come into the crankcase and thus making it's way into the cylinders far easier. I don't doubt this since I've experienced several problems with intake manifold gaskets and sealing issues. A common thing with SBFs and my buddy tells me that I should torque the intake more than 22 torque since I have studs. Any advice there?

So the season is officially over for me. The plan as of right now is to buy a roll bar, some 15x8/10 wheels and 26x8.5/10 slicks. Will install an tubular k member and possibly a baseline suspension pro launch upper control arm relocation system. Since the roll bar will add weight, I may end up removing the rear seats since I don't use them to counter the weight gain. I really don't like to strip the car for weight loss, but man the new era is quick and fast. So the deeper I get into the 10s the better it is to be somewhat competitive.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
467 Posts
13.5 to 14.5 PSI is where the magic happens. You get the added action of wadding up the sidewalls which helps absorb the shock of the launch and keep you hooked up. I drive an automatic so what do I know...

I am running the Baseline relocated uppers with the polymer bushings. Even with the bushing you hear and feel more in the car. The thing I liked the most about the setup is it improved the consistency. The 60 ft got a smidge better but the consistency it what stood out for me.

You still have 2 more shots at Gateway Oct 25th and Nov 2nd. Nov 2nd TnT runs from 10am to 4pm
 

·
Formerly LSNotch
Joined
·
823 Posts
Discussion Starter #36
13.5 to 14.5 PSI is where the magic happens. You get the added action of wadding up the sidewalls which helps absorb the shock of the launch and keep you hooked up. I drive an automatic so what do I know...

I am running the Baseline relocated uppers with the polymer bushings. Even with the bushing you hear and feel more in the car. The thing I liked the most about the setup is it improved the consistency. The 60 ft got a smidge better but the consistency it what stood out for me.

You still have 2 more shots at Gateway Oct 25th and Nov 2nd. Nov 2nd TnT runs from 10am to 4pm
Hi! I didn't realize you were so close to me. Yes I could tell the car liked the lower pressure a lot more and I was actually tempted to almost just do a super quick slip but was scared that it would end up in an aborted run to massive spinning. That's a risk that now that I think about it I should have taken but being able to do 2-3 runs a night sucks.

So I take your car is a street car with the poly bushings? I was thinking about just using the cheaper version of the pro launch since I'm starting to consider turning the car into more a strict drag car. Even like it is at this point my wife hates it and says like the car is unsafe since you can pretty much feel and hear the suspension.

I looked at the schedule but considering how packed it's been the two WOWs, I can't imagine how it's going to be on the MNM with even more street cars. The Saturday sounded good but I have stuff to take care at the house. Btw, were you there last night? I don't recall seeing a car like yours.

Thanks for the info!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
467 Posts
I was not there on Wednesday. I need to get my car sorted out before I head to the track with it. The drag radials on the back of the car were part of the reward of winning the Outlaw All-Stars 12.0 index championship back in 2010 right before the track closed for good. Or so we thought at the time. The drag radials still look brand new, but they are 9+ years old now. I have been getting sidetracked on my Fusion which is close to dipping into the 12s with just a tune. It is a fun daily driver/sleeper.
 
21 - 37 of 37 Posts
Top