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Formerly LSNotch
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
So I finally got to the point I can take my 93 GT to the track. It's been an uphill battle since the new combo was put together with all kinds of small set backs. My goal is to run in the 10s N/A once I find out where the engine likes to be shifted and suspension settings and so on. I'm no stranger to drive fast manuals and at least my friends think I am a good driver lol. I've ran [email protected] with a 1.5460ft with a manual on a different platform on same size drag radials and stock suspension. Previous owner of my stang weighed the car and iirc he told me to weight around 3100-3150 with heavier seats, full tail pipes, heavy front sway bar and stock hood. I know the new block and rotating assembly weight more. The car now has a cowl hood, front sway bar removed and exhaust dumps and no other weight reduction. I'm thinking the car weights about 3200 with me in it, maybe a little more. Future plans are tubular k-member and coilovers up front waiting to be installed.
Here's the combo:
ZSR Dart based 349 stroker
11:3.1 compression
FTI custom cam for 6800 rpms
TFS 11R 190 heads
TFS Box R intake
90 Throttle Body with 4" tube
1 3/4 headers, 3" collectors with 3" x pipe that merges into Dynomax Ultraflo 2 1/2" dumps
TKO Transmission with Ram Powergrip clutch and aluminum driveshaft
4.10 gears w/31 splines axles and CHE brace
No front sway bar
Front coil spring - eibach sport lines
Rear coil spring - OEM 1 coil cut
Tokico D - spec adjustable shocks and struts
Front 18 SVE replica wheels
UPR non adjustable ULCAs
BMR UCA stiffening brace
full length subframe connectors
M/T DR 275/40-17s (psi probably 17-20) with somewhat heavy SVE replica wheels

I think mid to high 11s are possible this first time out without laying on it too hard, and if I do everything right and there are no serious traction problems. My previous car ran 11.20s @ 122 N/A and this car definitely feels stronger.

What are your thoughts? Thank you in advance
 

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Yeah i definetly think 10's is possible.like you said its just getting everthing dialed in correctly.How is the ram powergrip clutch? How is the pedal feel?
 

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Formerly LSNotch
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823 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Yeah i definetly think 10's is possible.like you said its just getting everthing dialed in correctly.How is the ram powergrip clutch? How is the pedal feel?
Well I think the 10s are very possible with suspension and tires changes. Plus I have to really smooth out the VE table since there are some peaks that are causing it to stumble during WOT.

The clutch is smooth and the pedal effort is way better compared to the king cobra pressure plate was installed prior.
 

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Formerly LSNotch
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823 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Here's the update:
I can for sure say the car has the potential to run 10s. First, the track was unbelievable packed like never before temps were around low 70s and I was only able to do only two runs with no cooling since I had to constantly start the engine to move the car. On my first attempt I tried with the DRs lowered to 22psi, no changes to the suspension settings, 90% full tank of gas and leaving at 3500 rpms with a slight slip. It did grab decent but on my shifting to 2nd at 6800 it started to spin and rear started to come around so I release the gas pedal and got back on it. Engine was stumbling through because the VE table is not completely tuned so it has some peaks that need work and it was making it go rich. Rest of gear changes were at 6300-6500.
Second attempt went bad. Lowered the tires to 18 psi and was trying to leave around 4000 rpms but in reality left at 4500 and was a little to aggressive with the clutch release and spun so bad that 2nd gear didn't want go in. Still completed the run with he same rich stumbles and shifting around 6600, but still surprised me as to what it ran.
First pass time slip:
1.85 60ft
5.21
7.88 @ 92.45
12.03 @ 120.11

Second pass slip, I thought I saved it but I lost it. What I can remember was:
1.98 60ft
12.89 @ 117

Can someone recommend me a set of tires or possibly wheels/tires combo to be able to drive to the track on them. I think MT and Hoosier both make a tire that are bias ply and are DOT, but do they hook like a slick? I rather keep the height around 26" if all possible. Thank you in advance.
 

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My first suggestion would be to explore lower tire pressure in the existing rear tires along the lines of 14-14.5 PSI. Are you getting any weight transfer onto the rear tires? Is the car trying to pull the front tires off the ground or are you immediately going into spin? If you are going to get a set of rims for drag racing you need to find out what diameter wheel will clear your rear brakes and then look at tire availability. I use to run the old MT ET Streets with my 5 speed and low mid 1.6s were possible with my 302 based combo. I don't know what MT has in bias ply street slicks any more. I swapped to an AOD and drag radials.
 

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Here's the update:
I can for sure say the car has the potential to run 10s. First, the track was unbelievable packed like never before temps were around low 70s and I was only able to do only two runs with no cooling since I had to constantly start the engine to move the car. On my first attempt I tried with the DRs lowered to 22psi, no changes to the suspension settings, 90% full tank of gas and leaving at 3500 rpms with a slight slip. It did grab decent but on my shifting to 2nd at 6800 it started to spin and rear started to come around so I release the gas pedal and got back on it. Engine was stumbling through because the VE table is not completely tuned so it has some peaks that need work and it was making it go rich. Rest of gear changes were at 6300-6500.
Second attempt went bad. Lowered the tires to 18 psi and was trying to leave around 4000 rpms but in reality left at 4500 and was a little to aggressive with the clutch release and spun so bad that 2nd gear didn't want go in. Still completed the run with he same rich stumbles and shifting around 6600, but still surprised me as to what it ran.
First pass time slip:
1.85 60ft
5.21
7.88 @ 92.45
12.03 @ 120.11

Second pass slip, I thought I saved it but I lost it. What I can remember was:
1.98 60ft
12.89 @ 117

Can someone recommend me a set of tires or possibly wheels/tires combo to be able to drive to the track on them. I think MT and Hoosier both make a tire that are bias ply and are DOT, but do they hook like a slick? I rather keep the height around 26" if all possible. Thank you in advance.
I've used ET street bias ply and Hoosier Quick time pros over the years. They wrinkle up like a slick but I would say they are a poor street tire to drive on all the time. I just switched up to a slick and happy with the results so far. I never could get my car to launch on drag radials with the stick. Keep the drag radials for street driving and get a slick for the drag. Jegs has some very inexpensive drag wheels like the SSR that I use. Best of both worlds.
 

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Formerly LSNotch
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823 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
My first suggestion would be to explore lower tire pressure in the existing rear tires along the lines of 14-14.5 PSI. Are you getting any weight transfer onto the rear tires? Is the car trying to pull the front tires off the ground or are you immediately going into spin? If you are going to get a set of rims for drag racing you need to find out what diameter wheel will clear your rear brakes and then look at tire availability. I use to run the old MT ET Streets with my 5 speed and low mid 1.6s were possible with my 302 based combo. I don't know what MT has in bias ply street slicks any more. I swapped to an AOD and drag radials.
I lowered the pressure to 18 psi for the second pass but honestly the car just blew the tires with a quick slip at around 4500 rpms. I can feel the front raising but I didn't have time to play with the struts adjustment.

I've used ET street bias ply and Hoosier Quick time pros over the years. They wrinkle up like a slick but I would say they are a poor street tire to drive on all the time. I just switched up to a slick and happy with the results so far. I never could get my car to launch on drag radials with the stick. Keep the drag radials for street driving and get a slick for the drag. Jegs has some very inexpensive drag wheels like the SSR that I use. Best of both worlds.
I wouldn't drive with those on the street. In fact, I don't use the drag radials I have on the street. I have regular radials for that since I get really annoyed with the rocks being thrown in the wheel wells. Plus I know the tires won't last.

I am starting to seriously consider slicks and just install them at the track. Only thing is that 90% of the time I am by myself and I don't want to be carrying extra weight in the car. Btw, funny that I was looking a Jegs wheels.
 

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Formerly LSNotch
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Discussion Starter #8
I've used ET street bias ply and Hoosier Quick time pros over the years. They wrinkle up like a slick but I would say they are a poor street tire to drive on all the time. I just switched up to a slick and happy with the results so far. I never could get my car to launch on drag radials with the stick. Keep the drag radials for street driving and get a slick for the drag. Jegs has some very inexpensive drag wheels like the SSR that I use. Best of both worlds.
What size wheel and tires are you using? I need to keep tire size around 26" tall with the 4.10s.
 

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What size wheel and tires are you using? I need to keep tire size around 26" tall with the 4.10s.
I have the 15 x 8 Jegs ssr's. 26 x 10 15" Mickey Thompson ET drag stiff wall slicks.
 

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Formerly LSNotch
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Discussion Starter #10
I have the 15 x 8 Jegs ssr's. 26 x 10 15" Mickey Thompson ET drag stiff wall slicks.

I know M/T makes the ET Drag Pro Radial that is pretty much a slick with stiffer wall to keep speeds up but is tubeless (3052R). I like that because it doesn't create too much drag which is why I am not a fan of slicks.
 

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I have always had the best results with drag radials in the 13.5 - 14.5 PSI range. I ran 235/60 MT Drag Radial on an 8" Weld Draglite with my 302 combo and cranked out 1.56 60 foot times and the few times I have been out with my 347 combo I have hit 1.49 60 foot with a 255/60 MT Drag Radial on the same 8" Weld Draglite. I have 70/30 struts on the front with 4 banger springs.

I would try loosening the front struts and dropping the pressure. I would make my first pass leaving the starting line like you leave (hard) from a stop sign on the street. The goal is to see if you can stay hooked after leaving the line hooked up. Are you blowing the tires away on the shifts? How old are your MTs?
 

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I have always had the best results with drag radials in the 13.5 - 14.5 PSI range. I ran 235/60 MT Drag Radial on an 8" Weld Draglite with my 302 combo and cranked out 1.56 60 foot times and the few times
With a stick? Or auto?
 

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1.26 60' at 17 psi on a 275 DR with a soft tune at 3050 lbs.
 

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There needs STICKY made drag radials and manual transmission don't play well together with a normal clutch. The clutch has to be adjustable or you need a bias tire on a stick car.
 

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Formerly LSNotch
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Discussion Starter #17
I have always had the best results with drag radials in the 13.5 - 14.5 PSI range. I ran 235/60 MT Drag Radial on an 8" Weld Draglite with my 302 combo and cranked out 1.56 60 foot times and the few times I have been out with my 347 combo I have hit 1.49 60 foot with a 255/60 MT Drag Radial on the same 8" Weld Draglite. I have 70/30 struts on the front with 4 banger springs.

I would try loosening the front struts and dropping the pressure. I would make my first pass leaving the starting line like you leave (hard) from a stop sign on the street. The goal is to see if you can stay hooked after leaving the line hooked up. Are you blowing the tires away on the shifts? How old are your MTs?
Those are some very good times! I definitely have to loosen the struts and lower the tire pressure. Yes, it spun hard on the 1-2 shift and it does a light spin every gear change after. I finally had some time to review the videos from my gopro and damn my burnouts were very short. It’s been about 2 years since I raced my previous 10sec manual car. So yeah lots of changes are needed and polish my skills once again, but it’s a shame the track will be closing here by month’s end.

The MTs are about 2-3 years old but only had like 3-4 passes before they were placed in storage. They looked very good and not dry at all, almost new to be honest. Thanks!
 

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Do you want more info?
no i just didn't get why people invest hard earned money on a nice engine setup and then go to the track without ever having the car tuned...

- get the car tuned then head back to the track

- on 17" drag radials i'd experiment with a quick dry burnout in 1st vs a longer wetted one in 2nd
(if you're NOT running skinnies up front than go around the water box, back into it, wet the tire, pull up little and then 2nd gear burnout.)

also, don't take any advise from auto guys given that you run a manual :salute:
 
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