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I am just getting into autox. I have participated in 3 autocrosses and I attended a SOLO II school. I am not going to be making any drastic changes to my car (not until I get a lot of seat time), but it really needs an alignment. So while I'm aligning it I am going to dial in a little negative camber to help out the autocross handling. (and any other things you guys recommend) Right now the car understeers and pushes in ever corner. So I have learned to steer with the gas pedal.

I did a search and it looks like -1.5* Camber is about the max to keep from eating tires up. Max Caster is desireable (+5*) and about 1/16 total toe in. Does this sound right? I have read MFE's directions and I will align it myself. By the way I am blessed (or maybe cursed) with an 8.8 rear that has exactly -.60* of Camber on both sides, so maybe that helps.

The car is a 1966 Shelby Cobra Replica (Yes it is a KIT CAR) I built it and it has a 1990 Mustang driveline(see sig). I know my tires are horrible for AutoX, BFG Radial T/A. They are 245/60/15 F and 275/60/15 R. I am looking for some 17" wheels and I know that 275/40/17 will fit all the way around. Hell I could put 335's on the rear if I wanted to, just don't like the steamroller look. But no tire mods until I learn how to drive.

Thanks for your help.

Paul
 

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For ax you will want more negative camber than -1.5. To the first order it will be toe out that chews up the inner edges and you probably need a good healthy dose of toe out too. Typically the -1.5 degree remark applies to long term street driving with a fair amount of toe in.

Try 1/8" toe out and -2.25 (more for slicks) for a starting point. Depending on how tight the course is be prepared to increase toe out even more. Don't shy away from reading the tire wear right there and setting in asymettric settings (more camber on one side than the other).

You may not know that you can jack the car up and toe it back in before the drive home, if the 'drive home' is where you are having tire wear worries. Likewise for camber. You can make marks on the towers and set it back to a more normal street setting.

Decide whether you want to win or whether you want to optimize tire wear. They are two totally different outcomes. Not trying to be harsh just giving you the facts...
 

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Yup, HalM's pretty much got it.

I have adjustable caster/camber plates, so I yank them all the way out for for drive to the races (at about -1.5 deg camber), then push them all the way in when I get ready to race (get about -2.5 deg that way).

I run ALMOST max caster (becuse if I go to max caster, then I can't get as much camber, so I prefer the camber).

I run zero toe-in during street driving, then with the increased neg camber for racing, it probably goes to about 1/16 toe out for race settings (pretty good).

I think the neg camber in back is good, and you'll also want to check the rear toe. Probably about zero would be good.
 
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