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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This shot shows the front side of the molded (ABS?) plastic "pod" with a couple of the gauges installed into their holders. It's a good snug fit but I think I'll put a dab of adhesive at the rear of the gauge/pod interface




The original bezel is stripped of all the hardware, only thing reused is the 8 screws that held the metal gauge assembly to the plastic bezel.



My biggest concern when ordering this gauge holder was how deep the gauges would set in the panel -It's not an issue with me now. This method of updating the instrument panel is not as nice as the "billet" panels but the cost difference makes me smile.:) The bezel I'm experimenting on with this is a jy throw away.



I ordered the wrong speedo and the new one is on backorder so can't show it completed. This information may be old hat to a lot of ppl but I just happened to stumble on it after admiring the 6 hole billet jobs.

AL
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
frdnut,

Thanks.

I bought the pod from CJ Pony Parts. The pod makes it very easy to install after market gauges but they were set too deep in the panel for me. I used a table mounted router and kept trimming the back side of the original panel gauge bezel and changed it from what you see in the lower panel to the depth in the upper.

I've seen several nice panels for 67 and 68...don't remember where though.

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
frdnut,

Did you take any pictures of your instrument panel changes? Was thinking we could get a small "how to" thread going for the 65 through 68 panel conversions.

In my opinion the most important tool to make these new meters work well in the old panels is a table mounted router or lacking that a drill press with a router bit chucked up.

My gages (2-1/16 inch) required cutting the original housing almost flush with the back of the panel in order to drop them in from the front like this (which I don't care for):



 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Markus,

Very nice modification, very well done!. Looks like you were able to use the soldering iron to provide clearance for the gauges, whereas I have to create a flat surface closer to the front of the instrument panel for the gauge bezel to rest on. A router works for this but you must remove very little material with each pass.


I think your warranty with Auto Meter is kaput.:)

billzstangin66,

Yes, JME is one of the few who does make a nice panel and for the material, the CNC machine and work involved the price seems reasonable...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
amesW-efi,

The larger speedo worked really well, it dropped in from the front and fit against the tapered bezel with no work, nice -surprised me! Big price jump from the smaller to larger tho, like another fraction of an inch really drives their cost to manufacture up, lol. I bought the smaller and sent it back.

You have a good solution and it looks nice.

Maybe this spring I'll get the engine back in it and see how all these mods work.

 
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