Joined
·
15,477 Posts
ATTN: Niks90coupe - Tranny install info you needed!!
Hey Nik, sorry it took me so long to do this. I hope it's not too late!
Getting down to business:
) w/ a 3" extension and a breaker bar. When you're removing the torque convertor nuts, when you go to turn the nut, don't hold the engine. Let the torque from trying to loosen the nut rotate the torqe convertor and engine until your socket hits the 3 o'clock position on the bellhousing, then you can just use that as leverage to turn the nut. Hope that makes sense, you'll see what I mean when you go to remove it. Tightenting them however, you will need to hold the engine. Fan belt stays on.
![]()
![]()
Here's a shot of the crossmember, you can see the bolts and nuts:
![]()
![]()
Hey Nik, sorry it took me so long to do this. I hope it's not too late!
Getting down to business:
The Stock headers and H-Pipe use a ball and socket fitting, so no gaskets are necessary. The flange is just the part that the studs are in / the studs go thru. No need to replace them. The reason I replaced my headers was because 3 out of the 4 collector studs snapped off. In order to fix that the headers need to come out, and there's no sense re-using the old stock POS's. My H-Pipe hangers were rotted, and I distorted the flanges and collectors yanking on it hoping to snap the collector studs, so I ordered a new one of those as well. I actually re-used my old one for now, just had to hammer the collectors back into shape. If I were you I'd just buy some new headers and H/Whatever-Pipe and be done with it. If you want cheap price / good fit get the BBK unequal shorty's I got for $160. You may meed to clearance them a bit for the steering shaft, depends on your motor mounts.
Nope, no tips there. Just make sure you have the socket on GOOD so you don't slip and strip the heads. I think they were a 12pt 12mm, but I forget. Definitely 12pt. though. Might want to get yourself a breaker bar. I don't know about replaceing the u-joints or anything though, I put a FMS Aluminum one back in. You could too since it's out
It's just a thing sheet of metal that covers the bottom front part of the tranny, gives you access to the torque convertor. It's held in by a couple bolts.
I used a 7/8" or 1" deep socket (I forget which
) w/ a 3" extension and a breaker bar. When you're removing the torque convertor nuts, when you go to turn the nut, don't hold the engine. Let the torque from trying to loosen the nut rotate the torqe convertor and engine until your socket hits the 3 o'clock position on the bellhousing, then you can just use that as leverage to turn the nut. Hope that makes sense, you'll see what I mean when you go to remove it. Tightenting them however, you will need to hold the engine. Fan belt stays on.I think I used about 36" worth of extensions to tighten the top bolts. You can actually start them though just by reaching up around the side of the bellhousing if I remember correctly. As for torquing them down, I just tightened them all as tight as I could get. There are 2 on the left side, 2 on the top, 2 on the right side. Install the "right side top" one last. I think that's the one with the dipstick holder on it. You can't access the "right bottom" one if you tighten that one. So tighten all 5 except that one, then install that one with the dipstick last.
Yeah, but the basket I was using was too small. I had to put a small piece of plywood on it so it wouldn't dent my pan. I also put a 2x4 under the front as well to get the best angle I could when I put it back in.
Very simple, just 2 long bolts with a nut. You will want to get new crossmember bushings, as well as a new Transmission --> Crossmember bushing. The old ones are nasty and shot. My crossmember bushings actually had the metal tube rotted out.
Here's a shot of the crossmember, you can see the bolts and nuts:
Mine were already way shot, so I wasn't too worried about it. 88COBRA said tilting the engine/tranny back ruined his, but there's a good chance his were shot already. I reinstalled my tranny with the stock mush motormounts in. Once I was sure everything was in good, I then went and put my solid 3/4" drop mounts in.
