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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
ATTN: Niks90coupe - Tranny install info you needed!!

Hey Nik, sorry it took me so long to do this. I hope it's not too late!
Getting down to business:

Since the h-pipe has to be removed, do I need to get any gasket or flange for it or is everything reused? Any tips for removing it? Never done this before. I know you removed the headers... is this neccessary?
The Stock headers and H-Pipe use a ball and socket fitting, so no gaskets are necessary. The flange is just the part that the studs are in / the studs go thru. No need to replace them. The reason I replaced my headers was because 3 out of the 4 collector studs snapped off. In order to fix that the headers need to come out, and there's no sense re-using the old stock POS's. My H-Pipe hangers were rotted, and I distorted the flanges and collectors yanking on it hoping to snap the collector studs, so I ordered a new one of those as well. I actually re-used my old one for now, just had to hammer the collectors back into shape. If I were you I'd just buy some new headers and H/Whatever-Pipe and be done with it. If you want cheap price / good fit get the BBK unequal shorty's I got for $160. You may meed to clearance them a bit for the steering shaft, depends on your motor mounts.

Driveshaft, any tips for getting it off? Anything I have to replace like the yoke or anything?
Nope, no tips there. Just make sure you have the socket on GOOD so you don't slip and strip the heads. I think they were a 12pt 12mm, but I forget. Definitely 12pt. though. Might want to get yourself a breaker bar. I don't know about replaceing the u-joints or anything though, I put a FMS Aluminum one back in. You could too since it's out ;)

What is the inspection plate and how is it removed? Is it that thin piece in front of the transmission? What holds it down?
It's just a thing sheet of metal that covers the bottom front part of the tranny, gives you access to the torque convertor. It's held in by a couple bolts.

What did you use to rotate the engine? Does the fan belt have to be off?
I used a 7/8" or 1" deep socket (I forget which :( ) w/ a 3" extension and a breaker bar. When you're removing the torque convertor nuts, when you go to turn the nut, don't hold the engine. Let the torque from trying to loosen the nut rotate the torqe convertor and engine until your socket hits the 3 o'clock position on the bellhousing, then you can just use that as leverage to turn the nut. Hope that makes sense, you'll see what I mean when you go to remove it. Tightenting them however, you will need to hold the engine. Fan belt stays on.

How long of an extension did you use to unbolt the top bolts? Also, how do you torque them down correctly with so many extensions?
I think I used about 36" worth of extensions to tighten the top bolts. You can actually start them though just by reaching up around the side of the bellhousing if I remember correctly. As for torquing them down, I just tightened them all as tight as I could get. There are 2 on the left side, 2 on the top, 2 on the right side. Install the "right side top" one last. I think that's the one with the dipstick holder on it. You can't access the "right bottom" one if you tighten that one. So tighten all 5 except that one, then install that one with the dipstick last.

You supported the tranmission by the pan right?
Yeah, but the basket I was using was too small. I had to put a small piece of plywood on it so it wouldn't dent my pan. I also put a 2x4 under the front as well to get the best angle I could when I put it back in.


How do you remove the transmission cross member? Is it real simple bolts or anything complicated?
Very simple, just 2 long bolts with a nut. You will want to get new crossmember bushings, as well as a new Transmission --> Crossmember bushing. The old ones are nasty and shot. My crossmember bushings actually had the metal tube rotted out.




Here's a shot of the crossmember, you can see the bolts and nuts:


Did lowering the transmission to get to the top bolts ruin your motor mounts or were they already shot?
Mine were already way shot, so I wasn't too worried about it. 88COBRA said tilting the engine/tranny back ruined his, but there's a good chance his were shot already. I reinstalled my tranny with the stock mush motormounts in. Once I was sure everything was in good, I then went and put my solid 3/4" drop mounts in.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Where did you jack the car up from? Did you put a jack on the cross member and girdle cover or what? Did you use any boards to jack it up? Can you jack it up with wood on a jack pushing up on the oil pan? I was thinking of using ramps for the front tires, think they would work?
I had a BIG Jack :D

To be honest I'm not sure what the best way would be to jack it up would be. Whether it be all 4 tires, or just the fronts...Hopefully someone can chime in that has done this on a floor. don't jack on the crossmember though (Tranny crossmember). I actually used a 2x4 on a floor jack to jack up my oil pan in the front, between the oil pan and front sway bar when I installed my motormounts.

Any tips on how to install the torque converter and how to set it right?
They say to put 1 quart of fluid in it before you install it. Mine was already dynotested, so it had fluid already in it. I'm not exactly sure how many times yours should "click" or "set", as mine is different than yours, I have a 1 piece input shaft, whereas yours will be an inner and outer shaft. You're gonna have to push/twist/push/twist/wiggle. Check how much clearance there is between the front of your Tq. convertor and bellhousing opening on your current assembly, it should be about the same on your new one. You'll know for sure if you did it right or not when you go to install it. Everything should line right up. If your Tq. convertor hits your flexplate and your bellhousing doesn't hit the engine block, then you don't have it in all the way.

Did you replace the rear main seal?
I should have. :curses: I didn't realize mine was leaking from there. Someone told me not to remove it unless it was leaking, and I didn't think it was. I would replace it if I were you if you have signs of oil leak down there. I've never done it though, so I can't comment on it. I bought the Fel-Pro one from summit. They're pretty cheap.

When did you drain the fluid from the transmission? Before or after removal? How much transmission fluid is needed to fill the transmission?
Before Removal. When you take the inspection sheild off, rotate the engine over until you see the drain plug on the torque convertor. Get that to 6 o'clock, and remove the bolt for the drain, and a bunch of fluid will come out, so have your catch pan ready.

For the Pan, Phew that was a fun one:


Basically loosen all the pan bolts about maybe 1/8" out, then try to separate the pan from the bottom of the tranny. Be careful though, you don't want to pry and gouge either one. Maybe a couple light smacks with a rubber mallet, or just pry carefully, it should pop right off. LOTS of fluid will come out :D Just Start to unscre the front bolts out more, maybe like 1/2", and then remove all the other ones, basically so you have your pan at an angle to get the most fluid you can out. Then push the pan back up flush with the bottom of the tranny, hold it with one hand, remove the rest of the bolts and take the pan off, and dump out the **** in the pan. If you plan to reuse the same pan, then by all means wipe it out! It took me about 7 quarts to fill it back up on the change, but if your convertor isn't full, or your cooler lines and cooler aren't full, it may take 8 or 9. What Len says to do is Once you get it all back up togother, install about 4 quarts, start the car. What I do is run the shifter thru each gear position after I add some. I don't know if it makes a differnece or not, but maybe it sucks some fluid up to somewhere else, Eh, i dunno :) Anyways, with the car running, on even ground, in Park. Just keep adding til it's in the crosshatch area on the dipstick. Len said if you do happen to overfill, it may just run out the breather cap on top of the tail of the tranny, so don't worry if it's a bit over the line.

Answer only what ya want to
OK ;) Hope this helps you out. Any other questions just ask :D
Check out http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/ for some more pics that may help you out. Any questions aboot them lemme know!

Check out these threads about the installation:
http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?threadid=91651
http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?threadid=91967


--Dave
 

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Thanks! I wish I could afford new exhaust or I would throw on some headers, an h-pipe and an aluminum driveshaft. Maybe my collectors and things will break when taking off the exhaust... graduation is coming up and I don't think my mom has gotten me anything for it yet ;) I got the whole thread printed and it'll be outside with us :) Oh and sorry about your foglights :p I'll probably start a new thread about jacking the car up and installing my converter. Great info!

Nik
 

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Oh, one more question, does the shifter have to come off? If so, how?

Nik
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Niks90coupe said:
Oh, one more question, does the shifter have to come off? If so, how?

Nik
Nope, doesn't have to come out at all. all you need to do is disconnect the linkage from the tranny. Did you get the link to the other threads as well?

Yeah, just twist your nuts hard with no heat, if your exhaust is stock, you should break something :joy:

BBK Headers, BBK O/R H-Pipe, and FMS Alum D/S are all $160 FYI.

Yeah stupid fog lights. Sorry I couldn't help you about the convertor or the jacking, but I'm in a total different situation there for those...(lift, and 1pc input shaft)...

Anything else lemme know. Remember you can check out that directory for reference if you get stuck anywhere. Happy breaking **** :D
 

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Well I just asked my mom if she needed any hints for my graduation gift and she said she was giving me money so I said well there is plenty of things I can replace when I pull the transmission this weekend. So maybe she might give me a few hundred :D I'd like ceramic coated though at $250 a pop for the headers plus $160 for the h-pipe and aluminum drive shaft. Think $600 is to much to ask for graduation ;) I checked out those other threads, I gotta check the website though, gonna print out some of the pics.

Nik
 

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Did you install a transmission cooler? How did you run the lines?

Nik
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah I would get ceramic coated if you want to do it right, "Chrome" if you just want to get it done.

Yep, I installed a tranny cooler. This is the one that Lentech sells.



I didn't use my lines again though. Len said not to. The combination of heat and detergents in the new fluid will loosen the gunk in them from prior use, especially tranny failure and bring all that crap into the new one. What I did was use the original threads, with about 5" or so of the original tubing, cleaned it out with solvent and flared the ends. I also cut about 2x 2" sections, cleaned, flared ends as hose couplers to hook up to the lines coming from the cooler. 5/16" line/tubing FYI.

As for routing, I just kind of ran it straight outta the way I guess, lemme find a pic... Eh, I don't have on uploaded right now and I'm at work. I'll try to find one when I get home. The lines from my cooler are on the Pass side, so I have my lines running straight up the pass side. Just keep 'em clear of moving parts and secure 'em, you'll be OK.

 

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Thanks! I got one of them FMS transmission coolers, came with a bunch of lines :)

Nik
 

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Do you have to drain the coolant to put in a transmission cooler?

Nik
 

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Discussion Starter #11
A bunch of lines? Weird...

Um, when you disconnect the lines the fluid will drain itself out :D

Or, do you mean the green coolant, in that case no you don't....
 
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