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92 LX Notch
306 w/Canfields & Custom Cam
AOD w/PI Stallion Converter, PA Manual Vbody, 4.10 gears
Weld Big/Littles, ET Streets
3400#'s race weight
330RWHP, [email protected]

Needs a looser converter, coming out on the transbrake right now @ 3400rpm, motor really wants to see about 4000rpm. Has an 11.90 in it in current trim. Likely an 11.70 NA, I still have a few mods coming like manual steering rack and an Elec. water pump. Then I am going to spray it.
 

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NO CHANCE said:
92 LX Notch
306 w/Canfields & Custom Cam
AOD w/PI Stallion Converter, PA Manual Vbody, 4.10 gears
Weld Big/Littles, ET Streets
3400#'s race weight
330RWHP, [email protected]

Needs a looser converter, coming out on the transbrake right now @ 3400rpm, motor really wants to see about 4000rpm. Has an 11.90 in it in current trim. Likely an 11.70 NA, I still have a few mods coming like manual steering rack and an Elec. water pump. Then I am going to spray it.

You need to help me with my car! Its the red notch over on midwest fords , PS nice #'s :)
 

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Here are my best times... This is with 28" tall tires... Have cut 0.2 seconds off when running 26" tall N/A so I assume the same can be done on the bottle....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
nice times. You guys think i should be able to get somewhere in the 11's and 120 (or close to it) traps with this combo:

stock 302HO shortblock
Edelbrock Performer RPM 6025 heads (gasket matched)
Victor Jr intake (gasket matched)
Holley 650DP
Crane 2031 Nitrous Cam (.513/.529", 214/220 @ .050, 112lsa)
NOS 125shot plate (will be running around 1000-1050psi)
94 GT headers (restricting me )
MAC O/R H-pipe w/ catback
MSD Billet Distributor & 6A ignition
16º initial timing
90 AOD w/ B&M 2400stall & shiftkit
8.8 rear w/ 3.55's
Lakewood 70/30 Struts
Lakewood 50/50 Shocks
Lakewood Traction bars
UPR Airbag
4cyl springs Front/Rear
No sway bars
McCreary G60's out back (26.4"x10" (8" tread))

i figure the car is around 3500lbs or so with me in it.
 

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No. I would say that will get you mid 12's. Your camshaft doesn't match up to well with the intake either. I used to have the 2031 and I never heard it called a Nitrous cam. Also you already know it but you need to do something about the stock headers. I would also go with a higher stall in order to launch better.

David
 

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Discussion Starter #8
well i am gonna be testing with the Victor Jr and my Performer 289 intake to see which one shows a better power band. I will probably end up switching back to the Performer since it made alot more low end torque then with the Victor.


And actually if you go to cranes site, they list the 2031 as a Nitrous (power adder) cam.
 

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I have just heard of the 2031 being a good blower cam up to 10#'s of boost. I just read their website and you are right about them listing it as a Nitrous cam. I looked at all of their 5.0 cams and they are listed as Nitrous and blower cams. :rolleyes:
I'm not trying to bust your chops. From what I have read, nitrous cams normally had a different profile than SC cams. O'well, good luck. Let us know how it runs.

David
 

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92 LX Notch
Bone Stock Long Block
Basic bolt-ons (headers, MAF/Tbody, Cobra Intake)
AOD w/PI Stallion Converter, PA Manual Vbody, 4.10 gears
Weld Big/Littles, ET Streets
3400#'s race weight
[email protected]
 

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300 Posts
AOD-e here

11.06 at 128.7 with 3.55 gear. I've since loosened the converter another 500 rpm, put a 3.73 gear in, and put on 1 5/8 long tubes and 3" exhaust. The car now is having some serious traction problems. Time to address the stock suspension. Should run 10.70's/10.80's in the next few weeks. We'll see.

MY buddy had a GT that weighed around 3500 with him in it. It was a 347, TFS TW heads, f-cam, 3.73, AOD, and a S-trim. Car went 10.0's at 133-135.

I love these trans.
 

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slowfive0: how hard was it putting the aode in? i was thinking about doing the same thing. what work did you do to it? and what vehicle did you take it out of?
 

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I got the core from a buddy who has a trans shop. I believe it was originally out of a F-150, but it didn't really matter because I mix and matched parts that he had to get the strongest combination of factory parts. I did a lot of research was able to cherry pick the internal parts (all factory stuff though) that I used. Then I just used a good quality rebuild kit (Borg Warner if I remember right). I used the Baughman shift kit set on level 5 and the Baughman controller. The hardest part for me was rounding up the rest of the parts locally. Our selection of junk yards around here isn't that great. It's sometimes hard to find the part and when you do, they want almost as much as it goes for new! I did end up fidning thenecessary parts (flexplate, separator shield, dipstick, AOD-stock style shifter, andharness. I actually used a harness out of a T-bird, worked just fine. YOu can get a lot of info from Baughmans site. I used a triple disc lockup converter from Precision. That was the big bucks of the swap---I got that from JDS Peformance---dirt cheap and great to work with. I"m very pleased with this setup, Just leave it in Drive and stab it. I also lock it up in 3rd which helps pick up alittle mph and et. Around time, I lock it up like a stocker so the 4000 stall is fairly manageable. Just a note, this type of trans setup has done find behind Lidio's yellow car down into the 9.40's. He has never broken any hard parts with the AOD-e until his Renegade car. I think he has that sorted out though. Time will tell. Good luck.



92FivePointSlow said:
slowfive0: how hard was it putting the aode in? i was thinking about doing the same thing. what work did you do to it? and what vehicle did you take it out of?
 

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A couple of other things. IT bolts in just like the AOD, but it is 3/4" longer so you will have to modify your trans crossmember a little. I basically cut the welds, but the alignment of the mount to the crossmember isn't perfect. I need to make a bracket, but I"m too lazy. I've had this in the car for a year and a half. Car gets 23 mpg on the hwy.

Another pain is the wiring, not hard, but you really need to do it right. I tied into the factory wiring at the EEC connector. I basically removed each wire/pin assembly from the EEC connector, cut back the insulation a couple of inches away from the main EEC connnector and wrapped the Baughman wire around the factory wire and soldered/shrink wrapped it. Then just reinserted the wire/pin back into the EEC connector. HOpe that makes sense. It's a good clean connection and I didn't have to cut any wires and I was able to use shrink tubing for a tight seal. good luck...


slowfive0 said:
I got the core from a buddy who has a trans shop. I believe it was originally out of a F-150, but it didn't really matter because I mix and matched parts that he had to get the strongest combination of factory parts. I did a lot of research was able to cherry pick the internal parts (all factory stuff though) that I used. Then I just used a good quality rebuild kit (Borg Warner if I remember right). I used the Baughman shift kit set on level 5 and the Baughman controller. The hardest part for me was rounding up the rest of the parts locally. Our selection of junk yards around here isn't that great. It's sometimes hard to find the part and when you do, they want almost as much as it goes for new! I did end up fidning thenecessary parts (flexplate, separator shield, dipstick, AOD-stock style shifter, andharness. I actually used a harness out of a T-bird, worked just fine. YOu can get a lot of info from Baughmans site. I used a triple disc lockup converter from Precision. That was the big bucks of the swap---I got that from JDS Peformance---dirt cheap and great to work with. I"m very pleased with this setup, Just leave it in Drive and stab it. I also lock it up in 3rd which helps pick up alittle mph and et. Around time, I lock it up like a stocker so the 4000 stall is fairly manageable. Just a note, this type of trans setup has done find behind Lidio's yellow car down into the 9.40's. He has never broken any hard parts with the AOD-e until his Renegade car. I think he has that sorted out though. Time will tell. Good luck.
 

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13.4 @ 103

89 GT stock shortblock 70mm tb, 75mm pro-m, pullies, P/S delete, no smog, Mac shorties, off road h, dynomax catback, GT-40 irons, Cobra intake, 30#, TFS#1, 2500 non lockup Art Carr, 3:73's.

I know I need about 1000 rpm more stall for this combo to really shine. Should go 12's soon. Then it's time to use the nos dry kit.
 

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-TCI Streetfighter AOD (Shift kit, valve body, clutches, some other stuff)
-10" Torque converter (3000 - 3800 stall, don't know where it actually stalls at though)
-ATI SFI flexplate
-basic 306 backyard rebuild
-Trickflow heads (box stock)
-Trickflow R intake (stock w/ 1" spacer)
-Buddy Rawls Custom cam
-30# injecters, 80mm mass air, 70mm T.B.
-3.73 gears
-2975 pounds with me in it and full tank of gas
-1-3/4" headers, 3" exhaust

28" tall tires (hurting me by .2 to .3 tenths, only 1.79 short times)
Tires also rubbing fender lip which slows me down
Untuned and probably running rich.

12.44 @ 108mph so far, 1.79 60 foot, 7.95 in the 1/8th
 
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