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Discussion Starter #1
I just purchased a set of gt-40p heads and have a couple questions. Is anyone out there running a stock intake, untouched? if so how does it run, i really dont have the money to get a new intake and am wondering if i should just wait to install them till i do, also is there any hidden parts im gonna need or what not? let me know, thanks
 

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Wait to install them till you get a new intake, the stock intake is a big HP bottleneck. Um, the only other thing you will need is new headers as the stock ones will not fit the gt40p heads. I got mine from central coast mustang and you can find em on ebay too.
 

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i didsagree..i was running a set of ederbrock 5.0 alums and was running 13.0s all day on all seasons with stock intake and TB and the eder heads flow more
 

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-Gt40 P stock plugs: Autolite 764's or 104's or Motorcraft 32C's.

If it were me, I'd try the stock intake, but I do not mind working on my car. You can also have TMoss port the lower for $100. and you'd be done. You should get the Ford headers, though. -No other hidden costs for those heads.
 

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Use Autolite 104's or 764's. You'll need to buy Ford P specific headers, but there are no other hidden costs. I'd try the stock intake too, but I don't mind working on my car. Have TMoss port your lower and you're all set.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So onegtonelx, so do you have the gt40p heads or do you have the gt-40. thats seems like a really quick quartermile time for just the mods you have. what is everything you have done.
 

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Thanks. My times are still going down as I just repulled the heads and worked them some more. All my performance stuff is off the same dead '97 Mountaineer 5 litre: P heads, TB, and intake. The intake and heads are home ported. I do have P headers, of course. I also have an adj, fuel pressure regulator and Cobra 1.7 RR's. I run 235X15 BFG drag radials on 10 holes. That's it. You don't need aluminium heads to run mid 12's. I'll get there or very close to it.
 

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I have a very simple setup, out of the box p's, out of the box cobra intake, and bolt ons.

I used bbk longtubes, aNd very little issues with the plugs, I just had to turn over the spark plugs wires on 6, and 7.

Alot of it is in the cam, and valve spring selection as well.

mine dyno'd 299rwhp, and 329 rwtq. Not bad for some factory produced unported ford parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
what do you all think i will run with a the frpp headers, prochamber, flow catback, out of the box p heads, underdrives, also what kinda hp numbers do you think i will make?
 

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Will the Mac =Length Headers work with the P's?
 

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Maroon5.0 said:
I just purchased a set of gt-40p heads and have a couple questions. Is anyone out there running a stock intake, untouched? if so how does it run, i really dont have the money to get a new intake and am wondering if i should just wait to install them till i do, also is there any hidden parts im gonna need or what not? let me know, thanks
I'd recommend you change from the stock springs and retainers to something else. FRPP makes a direct swap set that needs no shimming good to .550 lift (for about $100) but you might want more one day. They are around 290lbs at 1.3" heighth and 110 at 1.8" I use them with my "b" cam and 1.7's.

TFS also makes a similar setup with springs, retainers, locks and shims for $129 from summit. It's good to .542. I think you will need to replace the exhaust valve to run anything but the
FRPP retainers though.
 

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Re: Re: Anyone with GT-40P heads here?

tateg said:
I'd recommend you change from the stock springs and retainers to something else. FRPP makes a direct swap set that needs no shimming good to .550 lift (for about $100) but you might want more one day. They are around 290lbs at 1.3" heighth and 110 at 1.8" I use them with my "b" cam and 1.7's.

TFS also makes a similar setup with springs, retainers, locks and shims for $129 from summit. It's good to .542. I think you will need to replace the exhaust valve to run anything but the
FRPP retainers though.
Do you have a part number for those FRPP springs? Thanks in advance.
 

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If you've got a die grinder, you could clean up your lower a little. You could even pick up a cheap dremel to do it... the aluminum opens up quite easily (compared to iron, it's like butter!). Just try to straighten out the bends a little (giving the quick bends more radius).

Once you finish that up, get rid of the thermactor bumps in the exhaust runners... Unless someone has drilled them, they won't have the thermactor hookup anyway.

Something else to consider,

You can get a complete crane 2030 cam kit for around $210 (including springs etc). The specs are: 216/220, .533"/.544", 112lsa.

GREAT budget street cam... easy on emissions too.

I'm running it's 1.7 roller rocker twin.
 

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Re: Re: Re: Anyone with GT-40P heads here?

One GTOneLX said:
Do you have a part number for those FRPP springs? Thanks in advance.
I'll see if I can find them after work today. You can get better springs elsewhere but if you keep your stock valve you pretty have to use ford's retainers. Your exhaust valve has the groove for the locks cut at different height than on the intake valve. This is to make room for the rotator.

The FRPP retainers come packaged to compensate for this difference by giving you a set of retainers just for the exhasut valve. You will lose your rotators though but it doesn't hurt anything.
 

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The crane spring kits have the two sets of LOCKS for the stock valves. (I had to get a different set for my raceflow valves).

44308-1
Includes standard diameter valve springs (99841-16), valve spring retainers (99942-16) and valve stem locks (99094 and 99097). No machining required.

I think they're around $75... or $210 with the cam:
http://www.cranecams.com/master/apps/ford20.htm
 

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Here is the number for the springs:
FMS-M-6513-A50

and the retainers:
FMS-M6514B50

I used my stock locks for these since my heads were pretty new. The specs specify 7 degree locks and I don't know what the factory ones are so you might want to get a set of these too.
 

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tateg said:
Here is the number for the springs:
FMS-M-6513-A50

and the retainers:
FMS-M6514B50

I used my stock locks for these since my heads were pretty new. The specs specify 7 degree locks and I don't know what the factory ones are so you might want to get a set of these too.
Thanks. The stock ones are 7 degree.
 

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John you will be doing my heads this winter.:)

Congrats on the times.
Don't think everyone can do this with p heads on the first time out. John can drive like not to many out there and he has a lot of practice in his car.

I hope to be running soon john.:)
 
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