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Discussion Starter #1
Just wondering how far the hyperpathetics will go before destruction??

Actually, IN what order do you think the stock internals will get waisted first?
#1 Pistons ?
#2 Rods ?
#3 Crank ?
#4 Block ?

This order look right ?
 

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Yea your order looks about right. My pistons went first...i cracked the #1 piston way back when. I currently run a very budget shortblock...B50 block/JE pistons/Eagle SIR i-beams/stock crank (stronger than I expected). I've got my good shortblock researched and ready...just waiting for this one to go, but not trying to kill it.

Troy
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey Troy,

You have any dealings with the felpro o-ringed head gaskets ? The set on my car now is seaping coolant out of the heads very slow though? This due to some bad lean outs with a NX 150 shot.. THink the fire ring is barely hanging on for dear life ?

Just curious if i had stock gaskets if the gaskets would of been ashes by now:D

Thanks

Carl
 

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Probably so. I run Loc-Wires on my car with great success. Some people don't like Loc-Wires. With loc-wires something internally is likely to break before the head gasket goes. So run std. fel pro gasket so that a head gasket will go before the piston or rod does. I try to provide as much crankcase ventilation as I can since I run loc-wires.

Troy
 

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opinions

My car makes 505.9 rwhp w/stock hypercraptic pistons w/no problems, the secret is in the tune, also, lock wire gaskets aren't recommended on a 7/16 head bolt, under boost the head bolt allows cylinder head to move around to much, therefore they could blow easier.. I switched to graphite fel pro gaskets and I have experienced no problems, I have been down the track about 40 times making this power, 10 dyno sessions. So I don't believe it is a fluke.. good luck
Jeff
11.20 @ 125 on 17' nitto drag radials
 

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jeff smith whats your setup or should i say combo great et :drool:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Re: opinions

Jeff Smith said:
My car makes 505.9 rwhp w/stock hypercraptic pistons w/no problems, the secret is in the tune, also, lock wire gaskets aren't recommended on a 7/16 head bolt, under boost the head bolt allows cylinder head to move around to much, therefore they could blow easier.. I switched to graphite fel pro gaskets and I have experienced no problems, I have been down the track about 40 times making this power, 10 dyno sessions. So I don't believe it is a fluke.. good luck
Jeff
11.20 @ 125 on 17' nitto drag radials
Hey check this out, speaking of heads moving under boost with the 7/16 bolts, mine as we speek is slightly dripping coolant out of the bottom sides of the gaskets. But very little and i hear a loud ticking noise under boost, which i thought was a header gasket at first. Do you think i can re-tourque the heads or does it sound like new head gaskets is the only option ??

Also what the cost of the graphite felpros? I heard they were better for aluminum heads ?

Thanks

Carl
 

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Hi there,
In a stk. Cobra shortblock the block is and will always be the weak link. Those people blowing up pistons, cracking cranks and twisting rods are doing it based on other factors and not the HP ranges (400-475rwhp) I've been seeing here on the Corral

The rotating assembly is subject to failure when the revs climb over 6500rpms (they're not designed to spin that fast) and detonation and excessive HP will destroy a stk. block.
See ya. Michael Plummer
 

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If the tune is right the pistons will be fine. The block is the weakest when you are around 500rwhp. I have split two in the past two years at this power level, with no other failures, just the block each time.
 

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I had put my car on a dynojet after running 11.13 at 126 (stick)---it made 485rwhp. I changed nothing over the winter (except tightened down the belt) and ran 11.07 at 128.6 (stick) ---very similar temps too. That pass according to the calculators is in the 520 rwhp range.

I've run 11.07 at 129 this past summer in the heat with the auto (race gas and more timing). The "only" time I've ever had problems is when I lean on the tune and run pump gas. I run an aggressive tune (pump gas/street driving) and have no problems. The only time I've had issues in when I go to the track or street race somebody up in the 100mph+ range. Obviously the load is greater in high gear and you're holding it out a little. With race gas, I've had 0 problems (also running more timing).

My feelings on the strength of the components is:

#1 Pistons
#2 Block
#3 Rods
#4 Crank

NOTE: the pistons do surprising well if you don't rattle it. Rattle it (it doesn't take much) and you "will" break them. I've broken two ;)

94BLOWNCOBRA said:
Just wondering how far the hyperpathetics will go before destruction??

Actually, IN what order do you think the stock internals will get waisted first?
#1 Pistons ?
#2 Rods ?
#3 Crank ?
#4 Block ?

This order look right ?
 

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Re: opinions

Jeff Smith said:
My car makes 505.9 rwhp w/stock hypercraptic pistons w/no problems, the secret is in the tune, also, lock wire gaskets aren't recommended on a 7/16 head bolt, under boost the head bolt allows cylinder head to move around to much, therefore they could blow easier.. I switched to graphite fel pro gaskets and I have experienced no problems, I have been down the track about 40 times making this power, 10 dyno sessions. So I don't believe it is a fluke.. good luck
Jeff
11.20 @ 125 on 17' nitto drag radials
U have to tell me how u exactly get YOUR STEED down the track with those 17's. PLZ,,

Tire pressure, how long of a burnout, skinnies or no skinnies up front, your race weight, lunch rpms, shift points, suspension.

I make about the same h.p. as u, and there no way in hell I could get that time without some good tips. I'm new the the 500rwhp club.

I have the 275/40/17 nitto drag radials.

Thanks, Daniel.
 

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Michael Plummer said:
Hi there,
In a stk. Cobra shortblock the block is and will always be the weak link. Those people blowing up pistons, cracking cranks and twisting rods are doing it based on other factors and not the HP ranges (400-475rwhp) I've been seeing here on the Corral

The rotating assembly is subject to failure when the revs climb over 6500rpms (they're not designed to spin that fast) and detonation and excessive HP will destroy a stk. block.
See ya. Michael Plummer
I KNOW THIS NOW PLUMES :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:
 

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Re: opinions

Jeff Smith said:
My car makes 505.9 rwhp w/stock hypercraptic pistons w/no problems, the secret is in the tune, also, lock wire gaskets aren't recommended on a 7/16 head bolt, under boost the head bolt allows cylinder head to move around to much, therefore they could blow easier.. I switched to graphite fel pro gaskets and I have experienced no problems, I have been down the track about 40 times making this power, 10 dyno sessions. So I don't believe it is a fluke.. good luck
Jeff
11.20 @ 125 on 17' nitto drag radials
I'd also like to know how you get the cars ET so low w/ a 17" drag radials. Best I've done is an [email protected] with a 1.9 60' on 17" nittos. I am sure w/ more practice the car would have went 11.7's, "maybe" a little better on the drag radials, however I had a big problem with hook..note.
7.8 1/8th @90
11.9 1/4 @123

I'd like to also hear more opinions on the weak links of the bottom end of our stock blocks. I am limiting my revs now to 6000rpm via the MSD pill.
 

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I make 530RWHP/551RWTQ through the tremec in my 93 motored 92 lx. It still has the stock hypereutectic pistons, stock crank, stock rods, etc. So far, it's made 7 dyno pulls, 15 1/4 mile passes, 10 more 1/8 mile passes, tons of street races, and 11 months of beating on it all the time on the street and still held together. It now has 90,000 miles on the shortblock. Like everyone else said, tune it good and no problems. You'd be surprised how long one of these motors would last when no detonation is seen and you don't rev the piss out of them. I really feel that with my tune, the block will split before it breaks part of the rotating assembly. at any rate, when it does break, at least it won't come as a surprise.
 

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keep the rpms down and don't rattle it, and you should be ok.

I'd also like to know how you get the cars ET so low w/ a 17" drag radials.
i ran a [email protected] on 17" nittos (1.75 60').
1. track prep is the major factor. the two tracks i go to take really good care of the line. they spray the track 300ft out.
2. do a good burnout. it doesn't have to be a john force burnout, but get some smoke off of them.
3. the low sidewalls of the 17" tires can't absorb a hard hit off the line. i do a 2 stage launch- let the weight shift, then hammer it. this is done in a fraction of a second.
 

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Re: opinions

Jeff Smith said:
My car makes 505.9 rwhp w/stock hypercraptic pistons w/no problems, the secret is in the tune, also, lock wire gaskets aren't recommended on a 7/16 head bolt, under boost the head bolt allows cylinder head to move around to much, therefore they could blow easier.. I switched to graphite fel pro gaskets and I have experienced no problems, I have been down the track about 40 times making this power, 10 dyno sessions. So I don't believe it is a fluke.. good luck
Jeff
11.20 @ 125 on 17' nitto drag radials
No kidding?!? Man, I wish I had known this or I would have put in 1/2" studs. I assume this is the case with head studs as well as bolts...

I have had two seep a little bit of water and need replacing in the last 2 1/2 years or so, no signs of detonation and a really safe tune, around 11:1 air/fuel and 24 degrees max timing.

Dumb question, but how to you install the bigger studs? Do you have to drill out and tap the heads?
 

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94BLOWNCOBRA said:
Just wondering how far the hyperpathetics will go before destruction??

Actually, IN what order do you think the stock internals will get waisted first?
#1 Pistons ?
#2 Rods ?
#3 Crank ?
#4 Block ?

This order look right ?
586.5 RWHP.:(
 

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Re: Re: opinions

jcm3 said:
No kidding?!? Man, I wish I had known this or I would have put in 1/2" studs. I assume this is the case with head studs as well as bolts...

I have had two seep a little bit of water and need replacing in the last 2 1/2 years or so, no signs of detonation and a really safe tune, around 11:1 air/fuel and 24 degrees max timing.

Dumb question, but how to you install the bigger studs? Do you have to drill out and tap the heads?
Interesting, I just called Edelbrock and they sell a bushing kit that you use with 7/16" studs that centrally locates the head. F_ck, wonder why the shop didn't do that when the engine was originally built? I called Edelbrock for tech advice when I was having the problem with the heads seeping water, and they never mentioned it either. I also could not find the items on their website. I guess it depends on which tech you get.

The Edelbrock part number for those dummies like me that did not already know this is 9680. Summit carries them.

Dammit! I probably would have avoided two head gasket replacements if I had these in the first place. I will definitely use them next time.
 

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JCM3, where did you buy the Edelbrocks from, and or who built the motor? I'd be on the phone *****in' to somebody if they used 7/16" studs without those bushings, especially somebody like Keith Craft!!! Pretty poor mechanics and salesmansip.
 

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I used a 7/16" ARP shoulder bolt on my heads. Thats what Summit recommended me to get. Right under the head of the bolt its 1/2" then tapers down to 7/16".
 
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