Ford Mustang Forums banner

1 - 20 of 34 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
684 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I saw that UPR sells a 160 degree thermostat for Modular Engines. For $25.00

Is this really a "performance" type thermostat made for our cars or is this just actually a $3.00 Stant brand from AutoZone or Pepboys?

I really don't have any heating problems other than the needle running between M and A on the gauge and then the fan bringing the temp back down, in traffic. I had to drain all the coolant out for alittle something I am working on right now and decided I should replace the thermostat and all associated hoses/clamps with brand new pieces.

Is 160 degrees too low? Should I go for a 180 degree stat? I want a good one, not one from the local store. Part numbers or place to buy it would be great?

Also, does anyone make braided hose or polished metal hose kits for a 97 Cobra? Or should I go with stock replacement?

Thanks, Jason
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,047 Posts
I have one.

It came in a repackaged white box with "4.6" on the side. The thermostat looks like a regular Stant piece, but I guess they switch boxes so you never know what the part number is lol. Hypertech also makes one and I think I saw someone in the Classifieds selling one cheap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,100 Posts
Jason,

Sell you my Brand New 160 stat for $17 delivered. I paid $35 for it delivered from UPR. I never installed it because I installed the stock air dam and that took care of my problem.

FWIW, I checked at autozone, napa, checker, etc and they all told me that there wasn't any T-stats available in that temp range.

I have it sitting on my work bench collecting dust. I will even send it prior to payment if you are in a hurry to get it. I trust you won't screw me over $17. If you are interested, email me at [email protected]

I bought a hypertech T-stat and they are JUNK... stay away from them at all costs. My car overheated as soon as I put the dang thing in there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,782 Posts
Hello Jason! I am running a UPR thermostat,Along with a fluidyne radiator.The only time the guage rises to the 'R' in sitting in traffic on a 90+day! Most of the time runs between the N and O(about 170) How is the hot rod doing these days?..Al
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
684 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Al,

It sounds like yours is doing real well. 425 rwhp, jeez. :)

Mine is doing OK. It is down for another month getting ready for Mod Shootout. I will probably run it at NMRA Maple Grove the week before the shootout to test it out.

I should be right at the legal 4VNA, 3150 lbs. race weight, with me in the car. I ain't doing anything too major. Just alot of little things to complete the total package. I should have alittle more power when its ready, but will still be about 100 rwhp less than you. I just want to make it to Sunday elims at the shootout and run an 11 while I am there and I will be happy.

Do you think the 160 t-stat will be too cold for me?

Thanks, Jason
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Yeah, I was wondering if that was too cold as well. Down here in Waco, TX it gets REAL hot. I am constantly at the A in normal. I'd like to keep it a little cooler if I could. I had always thought in the past that would be too cold. But I sure would like it if someone convinced me otherwise. :joy: Tha'd make it a lot cooler for my poor SCORTCHED engine.

-Clinton
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,782 Posts
Do you think the 160 t-stat will be too cold for me?
Nope! the cooler you can keep it..More power!.Also look at 0-30 mobil1 to go along with that thermostat..
My jason inspired diet is going well,down to 3440 and still have a full stock interior.No problem getting down to the 3400# shootout weight.I think the 250#penalty is going to be a big equalizer!..Al
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,782 Posts
I might also mention ..the cooler you run the further you are from detonation,That means a little more timing.also lower intake temp+more power,Everything under the hood last longer if you are not cooking it..Al
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
636 Posts
Boss 330 said:

Nope! the cooler you can keep it..More power!.Also look at 0-30 mobil1 to go along with that thermostat.
I thought that if you go too cool, the engine will never report that it is up to operating temperature to the pcm. Doesn't that screw up closed loop operation? Not trying to flame, just trying to learn...;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Thats the thing I was worried about. The pcm not recognizing it running at a good operating temp and therefore always running rich. I dunno, I really don't know a thing, I just like to enterain myself by thinking I do. :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,782 Posts
I thought that if you go too cool, the engine will never report that it is up to operating temperature to the pcm. Doesn't that screw up closed loop operation? Not trying to flame, just trying to learn...
Installing a 160 thermostat won't keep it out of closed loop.It will lower the minium temp your engine operates at.However it will still run in the 170-180 range rather than 190+
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
636 Posts
Boss 330 said:

Installing a 160 thermostat won't keep it out of closed loop.It will lower the minium temp your engine operates at.However it will still run in the 170-180 range rather than 190+
:) Thanks for the clarification.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
awesome, I'm gonna go buy one tomorrow!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,320 Posts
I know the EEC-IV will richen up about 2% for every 10 degrees under 190 the coolant temp is. "Normal Operation" kicks in at 178 degrees. So if the engine runs too cool, poor part-throttle response, crappy emissions, and reduced gas mileage are the result.

I don't know how a EEC-V handles the situation. Probably, you should go with a 180 and no less. I've been tempted to use a 160, but I'm not sure what the effects would be.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
157 Posts
Well, I spoke with a couple of other enginners at an SAE convention on this topic, and they laughed about the miracles of thermostats.

1) A 160 will make it take a very long time for the oil to heat up to the temp where water will burn out of the oil - not good
2) Higher cylinder combustion temps are better for power, as they produce more complete burn. This also lowers emissions. If it were true that "colder means more power", why wouldn't an engine produce max power at startup? It doesn't.
3) I seriously doubt "everything will last longer" because of a thermostat change - the air exhange of temps in an engine bay is very slight
4) In a closed loop system, won't the EEC keep the A/F mixture more or less stoichiometric? And enriching the mixture is just as likely yto lose power as add it - often being on the verge of lean will produce a higher cylinder temp and more push. The engine development guys have the training and equipment to know what they are doing - do all of us?
5) Racers play with coolant flow rates in order to optimize temps, but more times than not, they actually add restrictors out of the water outlets that reduce the flow rate, allowing more heat transfer into the coolant, which is what you want.

I am not saying that here and there, in indiviual setups, putting in a 180 thermo might make a tiny biut of difference. But playing around with a 160 is likely to cause more harm than good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,313 Posts
I was told that the EEC-V doesn't go to closed loop until 169 degrees and that a 180 degree T-stat was as low as you wanted to run in the modular cars. That will allow the car to get up to closed loop temp. before the T-stat opens and starts letting the coolant flow and cool the car back down. If you put a 160 degree T-stat in and it is cold enough outside that the car probably wouldn't run over 160 degrees if the T-stat was open, then the EEC would never see the car reach closed loop temp. Correct? If I am wrong then someone please correct me. :) Also, if you are looking for an 180 degree T-stat for a Cobra go to the Ford dealer and order one for a 97 contour with a 4cyl. Ford doesn't make a 180 degree for our cars but, the T-stat for the Contour is EXACTLY the correct size and it has the larger water passage like the stock Cobra T-stat and it's a 180 degree. ;) I don't have the part# in front of me but, if someone wants it just Email me and I can get it from work on Monday.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
654 Posts
ALLNTRL said:
I was told that the EEC-V doesn't go to closed loop until 169 degrees and that a 180 degree T-stat was as low as you wanted to run in the modular cars. That will allow the car to get up to closed loop temp. before the T-stat opens and starts letting the coolant flow and cool the car back down. If you put a 160 degree T-stat in and it is cold enough outside that the car probably wouldn't run over 160 degrees if the T-stat was open, then the EEC would never see the car reach closed loop temp. Correct? If I am wrong then someone please correct me. :) Also, if you are looking for an 180 degree T-stat for a Cobra go to the Ford dealer and order one for a 97 contour with a 4cyl. Ford doesn't make a 180 degree for our cars but, the T-stat for the Contour is EXACTLY the correct size and it has the larger water passage like the stock Cobra T-stat and it's a 180 degree. ;) I don't have the part# in front of me but, if someone wants it just Email me and I can get it from work on Monday.
My 98 Cobra, AOL3 EEC-V, doesn't go into closed loop until 170. Neither does my 95 T-Bird SC EEC-IV.

Please post the part number for the 180 degree stat! I ordered one from Steeda, and it opens (in a pan of water monitored by a thermometer) at the same 190-195 as the stock stat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
172 Posts
I would go with the 180 stat reason being is that with the 160 the coolant doesn't say in the radiator long enough to cool the coolant down, so the stat is all was open. Tim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,313 Posts
OK guys here is the info. on the 180 degree T-stat. Not exactly sure which #'s on the box you need so, here is how it reads on the Ford box that it came in.

RT-1104

F5RZ-8575-B

Thermostat

P7AKA W/O168019 100700

That's how the Ford Box reads that it came in. This was for a 97 Contour with a 2.0 4cyl. and it is a 180 degree. It is EXACTLY the same size as the Cobra T-stat and it has the larger water passage also. I've got one in my car and it works perfect. Hope that helps some of you guys out.
 
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
Top