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Discussion Starter #1
I got the 3 to 2 port thingie from matt to swap out a 94-98 M/C in my 89. I have removed the M/C and screwed the t-fitting into the pro valve and now the instructions say "it may take some wrenching" to get the "third" line on the the t-fitting? Is the "third line" the one thay was hooked to the botton of the orignal M/C? It is the only one left! But my prob is it faces straight up and I need it to face tords the front of the car? Do I just bend it? Can these lined be bent with out kinking?????? Do I need to go buy a tubeing bender? HELP? Pics would even be better...thanks corral!
:lol: :joy: :lol:
 

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The right answer is to get a tube bender. They are only about $15. Otherwise I think you will always run the risk of getting kinky. Small angled bends, with large diameters are OK, but 90* is not a small angle.

I was just removing my MC last night for the new SVO unit. Nasty little Bit$h. I didn't have flared nut wrenches when I started the job, so I rounded it off. I got it out with vice grips. Then I went to the store and bought flared nut wrenches. I like to do things backa$$wards.

Good luck.
 

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With his adapter one port points straight down, the other points straight back towards the firewall. The line that went into the bottom of the proportioning valve (in the port where the 3-2 fitting is now) goes into the bottom of the fitting. The line that was coming out of the old master cylinder gets bent and plumbed into the rear facing port of the fitting. I was able to bend mine by hand and with a few cuss words, thread it into the adapter.

Carson
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Blue89ELEX said:
The right answer is to get a tube bender. They are only about $15. Otherwise I think you will always run the risk of getting kinky. Small angled bends, with large diameters are OK, but 90* is not a small angle.

I was just removing my MC last night for the new SVO unit. Nasty little Bit$h. I didn't have flared nut wrenches when I started the job, so I rounded it off. I got it out with vice grips. Then I went to the store and bought flared nut wrenches. I like to do things backa$$wards.

Good luck.
I too now own a new set of flair nut wrenches. Off to the store for a tubeing bender.............thanks.
PS: Matt add that to instructions please for the next guy.:D
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK bent the line what a pain in the A$$! M/C goes in next!
 

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A tube bender is not necessary really, just take that line (that is facing straight up) and bend it very slowly so the fitting faces the front of the car. No need to get a tube bender.

I bought the kit from Matt too so I know what I am talking about.



give me your email and I will send you a picture of mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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Mike - did those pics work for you?

any questions?
 

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IcantDo55 said:

PS: Matt add that to instructions please for the next guy.:D
That use to be in there. Fixed now. Sorry about that. Somehow the bending part got delete. Big oversight on my part
 

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I will be order one soon...

I will be needing a 3-2 port converter soon.

Just out of curiousity, what does the M-2300-K kit do to get around the 3 vs 2 line problem?
 

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Re: I will be order one soon...

66COUP said:
I will be needing a 3-2 port converter soon.

Just out of curiousity, what does the M-2300-K kit do to get around the 3 vs 2 line problem?
The M2300K kit uses a combination valve from a 79-86 mustang. You gut the PV from it, install the FMS plug with the O-ring and then out the back of the valve, you remove the cap and install a special fitting there. For the 3rd brake line, you cut, flare and bend it to mate with that 3rd port out the back of the combination valve.

You will not find that fitting in a parts store or that can be ordered. I have looked and tried. Others have drilled and tapped that back hole to a different size and then use fittings from a parts store. But if you want to go that route, go get the fitting and the brake line nut from a 79-86 car and then cut and flare away.

The 3-2 kits for sale allow you to just bend the line instead of cutting and flaring. There is a bit of extra line in the engine bay, but when done after the combination valve like the way I do my kits, you cannot see it unless you are looking for it.
 

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Its just takes a lil bending, His products are a lot better then what ford tells you to do with there m2300k kit. I would highly recomend that kit over anything else.
 
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