Sucks to hear about that. But that is a little known but very much PITA problem with eagle cranks. I didn't have any problems with it when I ran my old AOD setup..maybe due to my flexplate/converter setup I used. Which was a PA AOD flexplate and a Edge converter. But when I switched to a C4 setup...I had issues with the converter snout/button hitting the crank. I also found out that the used JW converter I have was setup to be used with a midplate. So I was able to just have the snout/button milled down enough to have enough clearance. I know there is one other guy on here or hardcore5.0 that has had eagle crank/aod/thrust bearing issues. You going build something bigger now since you have to get a new crank?

 

Hey Jeff, how much clearance between the converter snout and crank counterbore do you figure you have now??? have you heard any figures thrown around as far as how much is required???

Man, I am really hoping this mess is over with, I am out of $$$$$$.

 

Someone who shares your pain.
http://bbs.hardcore50.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=34237&highlight=thrust+bearing

 

Nope, it's still a 383.

 

Wow really appreciate the heads up before I install the AOD on my 408!!

 

Are you saying all Eagle cranks are like this? I have about 4,000 miles on my stroker and it is a 4340 Eagle crank with AOD but I don't appear to be having an issue?

 

No I'm not saying it will happen to everyone, that's why my post was phrased as a question... I'm wondering if I am alone in my situation, and apparently some others have had the same issues. All I'm saying is, Eagle cranks run tight in that counterbore area and don't give much room for the converter / flexplate to move, and that if you don't check things out, like converter pullout, flexplate depth etc, you could have issues...

 

s h i t I didn't check any of that crap I just put them on oh well hopefully she stays together.

 

thats one place you ALWAYS have to check clearances... no matter what brand of parts your using.. in the end it's up to YOU to check the clearances in that sort of stuff... i bet thats one of those lessons you learn and wont forget now.

 

HOPE THAT THIS

is a lesson learned...



BY YOU.





maybe the cranks are just that way,...but no matter what it is going into,
whether chevy ,
or ford,
or dodge,
or stock quap....

I check the input shaft fit along with the nose of the converter....


just something that i have been doing to cover my A $$.

 

you should have seen that when the trans case was tightened up with the bolts,
that the converter had no "free endplay" foreward and backward.......before the converter to flywheel bolts were installed....

 

It happened to us *twice* once with an Eagle than after that with a Scat crank and a 4R70W - we called around to many places and no one brought that up. Went back to stock cranks after that. The car now has a 357 with a C4 so it's a non issue. I'd love to have all that $$ back.

 

Kato do you drink before you start typing on the corral LOL? Way you post all crazy. With 13 thousand post maybe you getting crossed eyed?








just hackin on ya!

 

Whoa... We always hate to see customer failures but placing the blame on a distributor for not checking clearances isn't exactly right.

I think we provide FAR more technical information and assistance than ANY of your mainstream "large" sources, yet we cannot possibly cover everything under the sun.

We also have a number of customer's who are running the same combination just fine. You list a variance in the flexplate and a variance in the clearance - A variance that we cannot check or control.

While I understand your frustration the lesson learned is check your clearances - Convertor endplay is one of them.

BTW: Jeff - Leadsled's combo was a Scat piece, not an Eagle. It's clearance related, not brand.

Brian

 

My issue is that if the Eagle catalog lists my crank as "not for use with AOD or AODE trans" then this info should be passed along to the purchaser when ordering the rotating assembly, from whomever the vendor is. I am not the machine shop. I didn't have a catalog. I ordered from the AD Performance website. I don't even see these kits listed anymore.

At least if there were a mention of this issue, that these cranks were not to be used with a given transmission / converter, then that would have sent up a red flag to let us know we would have an issue.

No one at AD asked what trans we were running when the kit was ordered???

 

common way to DIAGNOSE ( even over the phone) the converter nose / pilot either not fitting correctly or bottoming out inside blind hole of crank ( after all mounting bolts to block are proper length and TIGHT) ...is to force the converter fore and aft many times HARD and if the feet of converter "RING" the flywheel, then the nose is not bottoming out in the crank.

if it goes THUD, then it is probably TIGHT...
...or not centered correctly...

car / engine setups that use ODD or not specific proper offsets of flywheels that are drilled for different converter bolt patterns may make nose of crank not seat as deep into crank as should be...
just as a car that employs a "mid plate' or rear motor plate that goes in between the block and trans case to stiffen the frame connection...
this IS NOT the same as the stock / standard 1/8 thick "block plate" or tin metal plate that helps space the starter nose....
many converters are specially made to have the "feet" altered and or the "nose"/ pilot added to to allow proper fit...

....
as you all should know, if you do not install the converter properly and thus get the pump drive engaged allthe way, or the input shaft is not aligned properly inside trans ETVC...then the converter "feet" will be sticking out too far foreward and when you bolt up the trans case, you can damage or totally ruin converter or pump......

so, common mannor to "engage' the input shaft and pump is to ..."lift a little , rotate three turns foreward, then three times backward, and slight pushing in towards the trans...".... then it should fall in to engage pump......and go CLUNK....
if at any time the feet of converter are sticking out past the mounting face of bellhousing, it aint right.... the feet should be IN the face at least same or more amount that flywheel s converter mounting face is AWAY from the engine block....


we make money when you dont check it and screw it up.

 

I do not drink alky..
and I never did...

 

it is still the ultimate responsibility of the "KITCHEN TABLE ASSEMBLER" to CHECK the clearances....

too bad that you had a problem..

too bad that you did not know to check,
or what to check....

 

most of the time the concern / relation of
..."clearances and compatibility" is a matter of


HOW BIG THE GUYS HAMMER IS.......

 

Sorry Brian, I have to disagree here. If it's not a compatability issue, then why does the Eagle catalog say on page 69:

"Will not work with AOD or AODE converter"

That pretty much spells out that it will not work. Of course, there is no mention of "Unless you do x y and z"

That definitely sounds like a compatability issue to me. It doesn't say "Might not work with AOD or AODE converter"...

Another interesting thing is that on page 72 in the Eagle catalog (rotating assemblies) there is no mention of crankshaft incompatability with the AOD converter.

http://www.eaglerod.com/2008 Eagle catalog.pdf

 

I guess that's where we disagree...

There's a poster above, and many like him, that use the same crank without issue.

It's a sizing and clearance issue - If you have enough clearance the crank doesn't know what's behind it. Thrust issues are probably the most common failure for new engines, people just don't check them but that isn't the crank manufactures fault...

Brian

 

I guess that's where we disagree...
It's a sizing and clearance issue - If you have enough clearance the crank doesn't know what's behind it.
Brian

OK, then why doesn't Eagle, or any vendor selling this stuff say "Will work with AOD converter if you have enough clearance"??? No one said it CAN BE MADE TO WORK.

 

To me it's as simple as black and white... "will not work with AOD converter".

That is something that should be made known to someone when theypurchase one of these cranks. I wouldn't exactly call is "building someone's engine over the phone", it's a simple issue... If someone is running that setup out of the box without problems then they just got #### lucky.

 

Hey mine's still going Strong 4,000 miles later! EAGLE crank and Edge Racing converter in the AOD!

 

oh well brian... cant fix stupid..

if he didnt check clearances.. it's his damn fault..

 

And on that note, I'm done.

 

thank fuking god...



i get so tired of hearing folks b!tch and moan when they dont double, triple, and quadtriple check ALL measurements... and i do mean ALL..


if your not gonna do this.. please dont come in here and b!tch when your chit turns out to be.... CHIT..

 

That sucks big-time! I am so glad I read this thread before ordering my 370ci stroker for my AOD. Just saved me a whole bunch of money and aggravation!

 

Seems all parties involved have very valid points. While Jeff should have checked the converter to hub, If the salesman had done his job and been familiar with the product he's selling, or the catalog/web site made mention of this in more than just the one spot, this would be a non-issue.

 

Would you please direct me to the AOD specific crank section?

 

Post #22
I'm just reading and have nothing to offer either way, just getting informed.