Ford Mustang Forums banner
35141 - 35160 of 36135 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
37,868 Posts
Yup - very common sight on smaller/low powered rwd cars with solid rear axles. Same wheels I raced on 35 years ago....I hope they've been checked for cracks....
 

·
Registered
‘93 Mustang LX
Joined
·
6,670 Posts
Well no, but I can fit the hard plastic tubing from the planted base up into the vertical section and then anchor the bag to the metal backing easily enough. There is lots of space under the planted base for the air pump and switch. I have power and connector(s) already on the floor of course.
 

·
Registered
‘93 Mustang LX
Joined
·
6,670 Posts
The Recaros come with no adjustment capability on these LX seats. I think the top of the line new Recaros have this and much more.

I had an LMR ball squeeze pump bladder installed while at the upholstery shop but I see now I could have easily done it.

I plan to install the electric versions from these SN95 seats.
 

·
Registered
‘93 Mustang LX
Joined
·
6,670 Posts
Ok Michael, whats the plan for the TOY this week? “Inquiring minds” of course …..

I am going to “loose a little Freon“ and see if my cooling capability in the coupe doesn’t improve a bit. Then I’ll disassemble the air lumbar bag from my passenger side SN95 seat and start working on install on Recaro while it’s not yet in the vehicle. No shipping info on planted base or Recaro Sliders yet but there’s no rush.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37,868 Posts
I've started taking apart the instrument cluster I received -- beginning to think about how to mount the tach where temp/fuel gauge are (it will fit diameter-wise and depth-wise) and what to do about a fuel gauge. I've been piddling in the garage trying to bench test the fuel gauge. I have a spare sender but the gauge has an extra terminal. Most have ground, 12v and sender connections. Mine has those -- but also a terminal marked "7V" that is connected through the printed circuit to a similar terminal on the temperature gauge. Gotta figure out what that is/means.

My sender is 5 ohms to 115 ohms. I can't get an aftermarket gauge that matches that -- however, 0-90 ohm gauges are common, and that may be close enough. We'll see. I may be able to mod the sender housing and bend the float arm so that 90 ohms is the upper stop point corresponding to full. And if it only goes to 5 ohms at empty - that'll just leave me a little safety margin of gasoline in the tank.

Also plan to get the timing nailed down and make a first pass at setting idle mixture and re-balancing the carbs. Once that's done, I can borrow my buddy's vacuum pump/gauges and re-charge the A/C. 19 raging ounces of R134.
 

·
Registered
‘93 Mustang LX
Joined
·
6,670 Posts
I am now “complete” after the TOY update.

Bob must be working on some good projects as we’ve been without and Purist videos lately Except for a pleasant “short” video. I am fairly sure we will have some doozies before long.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,431 Posts
I've started taking apart the instrument cluster I received -- beginning to think about how to mount the tach where temp/fuel gauge are (it will fit diameter-wise and depth-wise) and what to do about a fuel gauge. I've been piddling in the garage trying to bench test the fuel gauge. I have a spare sender but the gauge has an extra terminal. Most have ground, 12v and sender connections. Mine has those -- but also a terminal marked "7V" that is connected through the printed circuit to a similar terminal on the temperature gauge. Gotta figure out what that is/means.

My sender is 5 ohms to 115 ohms. I can't get an aftermarket gauge that matches that -- however, 0-90 ohm gauges are common, and that may be close enough. We'll see. I may be able to mod the sender housing and bend the float arm so that 90 ohms is the upper stop point corresponding to full. And if it only goes to 5 ohms at empty - that'll just leave me a little safety margin of gasoline in the tank.

Also plan to get the timing nailed down and make a first pass at setting idle mixture and re-balancing the carbs. Once that's done, I can borrow my buddy's vacuum pump/gauges and re-charge the A/C. 19 raging ounces of R134.
Perhaps that 7v circuit was a low fuel light or something?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Goodson

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,485 Posts
Mine has those -- but also a terminal marked "7V" that is connected through the printed circuit to a similar terminal on the temperature gauge. Gotta figure out what that is/means.
Does that run through a "slosh module" to help regulate the needle on the gauge? So that way when the rheostat fluctuates in the tank the gauge needle stays constant? Most cars have them. The Fox Mustang has a known failure of them from 87-89. Causes the fuel gauge to go bonkers. Most people replace the sending unit only to find that it didn't fix it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37,868 Posts
No low fuel light - unless the alt light coming on when the engine shuts off counts. It could be an hysteresis circuit to stabilize the needle - good thought guys. I’ll try hooking up a 9v battery to that term and see what happens. May need more alligator clip jumpers!
 

·
Registered
‘93 Mustang LX
Joined
·
6,670 Posts
Well Michael between your thoughts on Freon and some reading I’ve been doing, I may have had the system overcharged. A site suggested 70psi cold engine 80F ambient was about right.

When I got home I was at 100psi hot&cold sides. Granted when running and at 2000 rpm I was 18 psi cold and 225psi hot sides. Those numbers looked fine but my reading wasn’t clear if that was supposed to be hot idle or 2000 rpm and engine hot.

Further reading suggested it would be inefficient at heat transfer when overcharged.

As I never weighed what I put in and I’ve topped it off a little over the last four years, I have no idea exactly how much I have in there. But when I put in a little more last week it did get worse. So I think I am on to something. When I rebuilt the system four years or so ago it was freaking cold- sub 40F.

So…. I’ll see if I make improvements tonight with letting some out.
 

·
Registered
‘93 Mustang LX
Joined
·
6,670 Posts
Well after a quick drive I see that was the right path. Vent temps down to sub45F not quite sub 40F but that’s good enough for the moment. I’ll test going to work tomorrow further. Funny even at too full of a charge the gauges red in the normal/good range. Maybe that’s what happens when you believe an idiot gauge lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37,868 Posts
Nice work Chris. When I was learning about it in order to charge up the brand new system I put in the Volvo during the engine swap, the guys at Classic Auto Air told me that too much 134 was worse than too little. When I charged the Toyota I'd add a little at a time and note the vent temps. When condensation started to form on the outside of the windows -- I stopped adding. LOL. Didn't care too much what the gauges said although I was a bit worried that the pressures were low. And you may remember, because the unit's t'stat was broken, the compressor wouldn't cycle - just stayed on all the time. I saw temps as low as 21F at the vent -- that's when I tested cycling with a switch -- and then the little digital thermocouple.

Leave it to Toyota. Connect ground, 12v, 7v (or 8.5V if that's what you have) and the sending unit where they tell you to with a label and Voila! Spider's web of wiring. Put the sender a somewhere in between the extremes and got the first reading. Moved all the way one way, then all the way the other - and got the bottom two readings. So at least I know how it works if I decide to try and relocate it. I do think the 7V/8.5V connection is part of a hysteresis circuit that damps the movement of the needle. It moved slowly enough that normal driving wouldn't move it around too much.

Electrical wiring Gas Electronic engineering Engineering Machine

Steering wheel Electrical wiring Cable Engineering Machine
Light Fiber Electric blue Engineering Auto part
Motor vehicle Circuit component Steering wheel Electronic engineering Cable
 

·
Registered
‘93 Mustang LX
Joined
·
6,670 Posts
Yes I remember your work on the Volvo and the controller. Some of the reading I did indicated that the down side with too low was that at a point the condenser will freeze over. As long as that doesn’t happen I should be optimized. I’ll loose a little more to try to get back there. Always learning something…..

Do the gauge works sorta with 9v battery. So why was the stock one not working? Bad /old gauge? This one is the “new” one from your old panel Correct ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37,868 Posts
As long as your t'stat/control system is working properly, it should cycle the compressor or let some heat (or heated air) in from the heater core to keep the core from freezing. That was my problem in the Corolla - under dash unit, so no help from the heater. And the t'stat was busted -- so it just kept cooling. Had to use the controller to eliminate the frozen evaporator core problem.

There was a spare sending unit in the pile of parts I got with the Corolla. And yes, the gauge you see came out of the new/old cluster I just received. Wanted to make sure they would actually work before I invested a lot of time thinking about how I might re-locate that fuel gauge. Tricky because I'll have to fab some kind of housing for it that I can attach to the cluster front plate -- with a "window" to look through and see it. I have some flat Lexan -- might even be able to use it to form the gauge housing as well as the "window". As for 9V vs. 7V -- I've been using that battery to test wiring circuits - so it's down to about 8.2V. I figured that was close enough. I've got a feeling that if I ran it down to 7V, the gauge would simply respond to a changing sender float level even more slowly. And I'd bet if I put a full 12V on the 7V term, it would respond without any hysteresis at all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,431 Posts
Agree with your thoughts on the gauge operation. Regarding mounting, I've seen people have good luck with using a short section of pvc pipe, painted black of course, to mount common gauge sizes. Basically make a "cup" for it to sit in. I suppose you could work something out with a lexan circle sitting on the pvc cup or similar?
 
35141 - 35160 of 36135 Posts
Top