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Yeah, I've never done much of anything with carbs either. My v8 mini truck was carb, but it probably didn't make over 200hp. An out of the box Holley 600 and dad doing his magic tuning while I looked on not having a clue what he was doing.

Excellent news on no drips, runs or errors. Takes a lot of discipline to stay off the skinny pedal before final tuning is done.
 
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After having 4x2 48mm IDF webers on my old Factory Five, I became a multi carb guru.

Years ago I learned quick how the different circuits on a carb actually worked. We all went to webers on our Baja VWs back in the day, patient zero.

Hate to say but I still enjoy tuning a carb, any carb for that matter. I just finished a motorcycle carb tune, and airbox mods to match. Man did it ever wake up this one.

Carb tuning helped me understand the effect of timing and cam selection has. After getting that in my dome EFI made sense and didn't intimidate me when it became the normal. I worked at the Ford dealer when the Mustang lost its carb.

Kinda why I still hang around forums. Reading the technical here stuff is a great wealth of info. That I'll probably need one day. O yeah, and the grease monkey fellowship.
 

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I actually learned fuel injection first. I have a bare bit of knowledge on carb stuff, but definitely see how it relates to fuel injection. Many of the terms used in fuel injection are the same as carb stuff.
 

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I am completely and totally ignorant in carb knowledge, thank you very much. Brain cell reduction yearly and it’s unlikely there’s time to learn any longer. Lol 😝
 
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Well, I just learned how to adjust the carb on a chainsaw. Not much to it after my Google fu was engaged. One screw adjusts the idle speed, and one screw limits the high speed rpm.

When the saw was taken to shop, was when it was winter. They adjusted carb for cold. Had to bump that idle speed up to get it to start for summer time. At least that's my assumption. That, or I probably need to put a new air filter on it too. Yeah, I imagine it could use that for sure.
 

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I learned about 4 years ago that if you manage to screw up and put a new chain on BACKWARDS --- the saw cuts exactly the same whether the engine is running or not.

Once I've got this set up working well, I really want to explore Holley's 2bbl Sniper set up. You may recall, I spend a lot of time porting/prepping an OEM intake to accept that throttle body. And it turns out the Sniper software will also manage a timing curve of my design working with the MSD ignition box. I've never seen anyone use a downdraft throttle body/carb on the DOHC motor before, so it would be even more unique than it already is. And, at least with stock cams and 10:1 CR, there's no performance loss compared to the carbs individual runners.

Richard - I'm startin' to Jones for that altered window sticker..... LOL!
 

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Yeah, yeah, I'm get'n there LOL

I was just making sure it didn't get driven off the cliff first. 🙃
 

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I've got people bugging me to buy the old freshly rebuilt long block - I've resisted until, well, the cliff thing. Although I think I'm more of a fire guy rather than a Thelma/Louise type.
 

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Think of that nice space in the corner of the garage it wouldn't be taking up any longer.

I need to take that approach with everything in my garage. It's a disaster.
 

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Checking Freon R134 pressures today. Ambient air temp 85-90F outlet vent in car with max fan speed didn’t drop below 58F While cruising at 60mph ….. So I decided to check pressures. 36/ 280psi.

Any thoughts gents?
 

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I think I'd try letting a bit out Chris. Could it be overcharged? When I did the Corolla it was more like 18-24 psig on the suction side and around 220 psig on the discharge. Ambient was low 80's when I started charging (in garage), low 90's by the time I finished.
 

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I think I'd try letting a bit out Chris. Could it be overcharged? When I did the Corolla it was more like 18-24 psig on the suction side and around 220 psig on the discharge. Ambient was low 80's when I started charging (in garage), low 90's by the time I finished.
What are the typical pressures expected with R134? I've never done my own AC and freon testing, but watching others with R12 makes me recall 40psi being a common low side pressure. Older Fords used to have over three pounds of freon, 20 years ago that was no more than 30oz(2.5lbs), so things keep changing.
 

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This video suggests 18-20psi on low side is appropriate for similar temps and humidities that we had here in Gville today. I suspect I’ve got mine overcharged a bit. BUT I need to check with engine revving up whereas I had it at idle for the info above.

 
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The old R12 systems were commonly charged using pressure/temp info. The recommended approach with R134 is to charge by weight. That's fine for systems were data exists - but you're forced to estimate for morphodite systems like I have in the Volvo and Corolla.

And that reminds - I’ve gotta borrow my buddy’s gauges/vacuum pump, get a filter/dryer on order and recharge the Toy.
 
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No idea on local radio repair. I'll be shocked if there is one, honestly. I know there are some online sources, with some of them even retrofitting to bluetooth streaming or adding usb or 1/8" jacks to allow connection to phone and such.

No idea on the ac stuff either.
 

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First experience messing with hydraulics yesterday. My Kubota 2410 compact tractor sprang a hydraulic leak on one of the lines that powers the bucket. All four lines were the same age, so figured it would be best to replace them all. One trip to the local Kubota dealer and $111 later (9 feet of 3/8", with the correct male and female fittings on each end), spiffy new hoses. Had to transfer the old quick releases from the old lines to the new lines at home. What a pain that was. Had to clamp the line in my vise at the fitting so I could get a wrench on each end of the fitting to get the old ones off. They were pretty darn tight, and that was yanking on them with a 3/4" wrench. Plus, the tractor was at our rental property that's a few hundred yards away from my garage with the vice. And of course, had to make three walking trips back and forth for tools and vice usage.

Then topped off the fluid. It lost around 1/2 quart, give or take. The fill spot is under the seat and requires a long slender funnel. All I had was a five gallon bucket of hyd fluid. So, I did what all shade tree mechanics do and used my fluid transfer device, otherwise known as a huge turkey baster. :cool:

I've used it in the past for empty brake fluid reservoir when bleeding brakes, or other delicate type operations. This is a BIG baster, guessing it holds around an ounce of fluid in the bulb. Took 16 bulbs worth to get back to full on the dipstick.

This is a pretty close version of what I have. Stainless steel and all. LOL

https://www.amazon.com/Norpro-Deluxe-Stainless-Injector-Cleaning/dp/B0000CFTOE
 
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