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Japanese Kameari head gasket.....
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Anyone from East TN at the Corral?
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I agree, I think your better choice is with the RTV. I'm not so sure I wouldn't have ordered a spare gasket or two, just in case they get even harder to come by in the future.
That's a pretty unique setup for sure.
That's a pretty unique setup for sure.
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Except - I hate RTV.
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I love RTV, come see where I've used it around my house, it's much better than any household caulk or sealant. I think I have it in two places in the kitchen(sink), in one shower drain, the toilet base/floor, all around the fireplace flashing, and at the front door outside along the top of the door frame. Oh, plus along the top of the sliding glass door frame outside(the top board warped and was letting go ten years ago, the Ultra Black sealed it and held it down.
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Chris - one of the most reliable F1 engines of the 1.5L turbo era - a Hart monobloc. Head/block all one piece. So those 60-70-80 psig boost levels were achievable without compromising a head gasket....because as with the BMW and vintage Bugatti straight-8's - there is no head gasket.
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Wow, it’s hard to wrap my ‘head‘ around no head/block interface and how valves or their equivalent and pistons are used Or assembled. I’ll have to look it up in wiki.
Aaah hah…. Assemble everything from the underside. Wow that’s some machining of the combustion area for sure and valve seats… yikes.
www.hpacademy.com
Monoblocks And Formula 1 | Geoff Page Racing
As you might know, we recently had the chance to head over to Goodwood Festival of Speed in England. While we were over there, we managed to head to Geoff Page Racing and check out their shop and bring you some great insight into their unique solution to a common problem.
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From my previous post Chris - “You can see the various access ports -- special tools/fixtures required for dealing with valves/seats through the bottom of the cylinder.” Piston/rod goes in through the bottom, then crank. No tapered bores.
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Cruise is fixed on escort. It was just a coincidence with the ignition switch. There used to be a little rubber bumper mounted at top of clutch pedal. Small location post on back of bumper went in corresponding hole at top of pedal.
the little bumper would rest against a switch to indicate clutch wasn’t being pressed. Press clutch, switch broke circuit and would disengage cruise control.
however, the little bumper fell apart years ago. Thelittle plunger switchfit perfectly into the post hole. So even if not using clutch, switch thought you were.
fixed it a long time ago with a small piece of aluminum taped (lol) over the hole. Well, the tape wore out and aluminum fell off.
taped it back up there, maybe it will last another 100k. Lol
yes, a small bolt or washer would be better. But it would actually have to be a fairly long machine screw and it’s in a very awkward place. So Jerry rigged is the order for the day. :-D
the little bumper would rest against a switch to indicate clutch wasn’t being pressed. Press clutch, switch broke circuit and would disengage cruise control.
however, the little bumper fell apart years ago. Thelittle plunger switchfit perfectly into the post hole. So even if not using clutch, switch thought you were.
fixed it a long time ago with a small piece of aluminum taped (lol) over the hole. Well, the tape wore out and aluminum fell off.
taped it back up there, maybe it will last another 100k. Lol
yes, a small bolt or washer would be better. But it would actually have to be a fairly long machine screw and it’s in a very awkward place. So Jerry rigged is the order for the day. :-D
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Simple, elegant fix.
Chris - my thought was that you probably needed to be either a Proctologist or a Gynecologist to do a rebuild on a mono bloc..
Chris - my thought was that you probably needed to be either a Proctologist or a Gynecologist to do a rebuild on a mono bloc..
Good one Michael.
Glad the fox was simple in the end Richard. That’s always nice.
I am up to a rad swap now on Jeep. I think the “chineseum“ welded aluminum rad‘s welds have corroded to the point of a small pin hole leak. Further I think the manhandling during engine swap accelerated it by a little. If I’d only have known I’d have had them do a rad swap too while there. Oh well.
This welded unit lasted only 30k miles For about $180.
The prior two were plastic tank $100 Parts Geek models and they lasted 50k miles. So a new one of those is due here tomorrow pm.
Glad the fox was simple in the end Richard. That’s always nice.
I am up to a rad swap now on Jeep. I think the “chineseum“ welded aluminum rad‘s welds have corroded to the point of a small pin hole leak. Further I think the manhandling during engine swap accelerated it by a little. If I’d only have known I’d have had them do a rad swap too while there. Oh well.
This welded unit lasted only 30k miles For about $180.
The prior two were plastic tank $100 Parts Geek models and they lasted 50k miles. So a new one of those is due here tomorrow pm.
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Seems like I was just here doesn’t it!?? Lol. I am getting good at it.
Corrosion here may be related
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Maybe bigger than a pinhole.
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Yup -- it was time Chris. I was gonna suggest a silver/solder repair on the pinhole and keep it as an emergency replacement if needed -- but I do believe that is scrap aluminum.
Close up on that corrosion at cores is pretty bad.
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That crazy lady in a scarf. Awesome. Well done engineering indeed.
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