I love RTV, come see where I've used it around my house, it's much better than any household caulk or sealant. I think I have it in two places in the kitchen(sink), in one shower drain, the toilet base/floor, all around the fireplace flashing, and at the front door outside along the top of the door frame. Oh, plus along the top of the sliding glass door frame outside(the top board warped and was letting go ten years ago, the Ultra Black sealed it and held it down.
Chris - one of the most reliable F1 engines of the 1.5L turbo era - a Hart monobloc. Head/block all one piece. So those 60-70-80 psig boost levels were achievable without compromising a head gasket....because as with the BMW and vintage Bugatti straight-8's - there is no head gasket.
As you might know, we recently had the chance to head over to Goodwood Festival of Speed in England. While we were over there, we managed to head to Geoff Page Racing and check out their shop and bring you some great insight into their unique solution to a common problem.
From my previous post Chris - “You can see the various access ports -- special tools/fixtures required for dealing with valves/seats through the bottom of the cylinder.” Piston/rod goes in through the bottom, then crank. No tapered bores.
Cruise is fixed on escort. It was just a coincidence with the ignition switch. There used to be a little rubber bumper mounted at top of clutch pedal. Small location post on back of bumper went in corresponding hole at top of pedal.
the little bumper would rest against a switch to indicate clutch wasn’t being pressed. Press clutch, switch broke circuit and would disengage cruise control.
however, the little bumper fell apart years ago. Thelittle plunger switchfit perfectly into the post hole. So even if not using clutch, switch thought you were.
fixed it a long time ago with a small piece of aluminum taped (lol) over the hole. Well, the tape wore out and aluminum fell off.
taped it back up there, maybe it will last another 100k. Lol
yes, a small bolt or washer would be better. But it would actually have to be a fairly long machine screw and it’s in a very awkward place. So Jerry rigged is the order for the day. :-D
Glad the fox was simple in the end Richard. That’s always nice.
I am up to a rad swap now on Jeep. I think the “chineseum“ welded aluminum rad‘s welds have corroded to the point of a small pin hole leak. Further I think the manhandling during engine swap accelerated it by a little. If I’d only have known I’d have had them do a rad swap too while there. Oh well.
This welded unit lasted only 30k miles For about $180.
The prior two were plastic tank $100 Parts Geek models and they lasted 50k miles. So a new one of those is due here tomorrow pm.
That pic was from my Jeep Actually. The stang Griffin rad is doing quite well still at 22-25yrs now. It was pricey when I bought it but it sure held up.It cost some $750 ish and this chineseum Jeep rad cost $180 ish But only lasted four years.
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