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Well, found a few more sources of leaks. All self inflicted. Morons. I have morons on my team.

1) Tapered brass bushing for the oil pressure gauge line; I suppose I didn't tighten it enough. Cleaned it all up, used a different type of thread sealer and tightened the sh!t out of it.

2) The OEM block off plate for the fuel pump into the side of the crankcase. For some reason I thought reusing the gasket that was on it was a good idea. Cut a new one, dressing - buttoned it up.

3) There's a stud that sticks out the front of the timing chain cover. Inside the cover it forms the hinge for the chain slider that the tensioner acts on. It has a nut on the threaded portion that passes through the cover. Turns out, oil can and does work it's way past that stud and runs down the front of the cover. Removed the nut, washer -- cleaned up, smoothed the surface of the cover where it passes through, gooped the stud, cover, washer, threads and nut up with non-hardening dressing. Torqued it down and wiped off the excess.

4) Ordered a new oil pan gasket. The replacement that came in the Rock Auto gasket set didn't fit. The holes weren't punched correctly and the overall length was a bit off. Since I knew the engine had been freshly built and only run for an hour or two all those years ago, I convinced myself that I could simply clean up and reuse the gasket on the engine. (see #2 above). Pretty sure I had a leak from the driver's side rear corner. Ordered up a FelPro from Rock Auto ($7.82). The trick will be working it past the oil pump to get it in place without being able to completely remove the pan (crossmember in the way). Cork/rubber composite (all that's available) - I'll coat it liberally with lithium grease before install.

5) There's an access port on the front of the head that allows the chain sliders to be inspected and replaced. An oval stamped steel piece about 2.5" x 4", flat flange with only 2 bolts (across the 2.5" side) holding it to the head. It too was leaking oil down the front cover. Made a new gasket - going to use a bead of The Right Stuff on either side of the gasket. Snug til squish, let cure for 24hrs, then final tighten.

6) Got the water pump surface so flat that I can't get an .003" feeler under it anywhere except for a 1" section where I've got about a .005-.006" gap. I know that sounds small and I can't make the pump "rock" at all anymore. But I don't want to take any chances on it this time. So I added just a bit more epoxy to that 1" section and I'll get it squared away tomorrow. Made new gasket and I'll use a bead of The Right Stuff on both sides as in #5.

7) Made new gaskets for each side of the front cover. Filled a couple of small gouges with epoxy, sanded smooth. Can't get an .003" blade anywhere under my square. I'll use a bead of The Right Stuff on both sides of the gaskets.

8) Cleaned up the interface between the top of the cover and the bottom of the head. I'll lay a bead of The Right Stuff on top of the cover before installing the head/torquing. Good long cure before starting.

9) Made new t'stat housing gasket. Checked for smoothness/flat. Couldn't get an .003" feeler in anywhere. Coated gasket completely with The Right Stuff. Tightened bolts til I got some squish. Waited 24 hours, then final tighten.

No evidence of any leaks at the intake or exhaust gasket. The engine ran for only about 3-5 minutes total. Chambers, piston tops, head gasket all looked brand new. But I ordered a new HG just to be on the safe side. Zero evidence of coolant in the oil pan or oil in the cooling system. Silver lining.
 

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And here I am complaining about pulling my alternator off again lol.

Hopefully that will do it for you.
 
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Basically re-doing ALL the work I did with the engine on the stand.

May be time to sell the tools boys. The operator's having challenges.
 

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I had a few threads to catch up on. Stay off for a bit and suddenly you get no more notices/ alerts.

Sounds like a long grueling process Michael. I can’t imagine you giving up the tools! Hang tough brother.

I’ve always like to let my RTV cure by “feel”. When the skin gets 1/3-1/2 thick with moo shy zone still liquid like in the middle, throats when i reassemble. As Michael mentioned it’s. Function of time/ temp/ humidity etc. So I go by thickness of the skin.

I too had a local alternator rebuild shop hose me over in a crap rebuild once. I gave up and just buy new now. Never rebuilt. Sad.
 

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I've noticed the same thing Chris -- every now and then, it just stops showing me the little blue dot that lets me know I've got alerts, because there aren't any alerts. And the thread may have had 5, 10, 15 posts without notice. IT glitch I guess.
 

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I've noticed the same thing Chris -- every now and then, it just stops showing me the little blue dot that lets me know I've got alerts, because there aren't any alerts. And the thread may have had 5, 10, 15 posts without notice. IT glitch I guess.
Okay, how's that work? I have a red dot for my notifications, at the top right of the user icon box.
 

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I’d do a screen grab and post it - but I seem to only know how to do a screen grab accidentally….

Same place for my dot Don - just a color difference. I reckon one of us is in the matrix, the other not.
 

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Yeah, it's definitely glitchy. Same on email notifications.
 

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So, remember the odd issues I was having with the escort? Delay to turn over when going to start, engine cooling fan not working unless ac is on, etc? We had it pseudo diagnosed as being the possibly the ignition switch.

Anywho, the HVAC blower has quit. Out of the blue, no warning. I check the usual suspects, fuses are ok, so that means I need to get to the blower motor and jump it and confirm the motor hasn't gone bad. Flip ignition switch to on, and it starts working. Hmm.

I fiddle around a bit more and blower only works on one and two, the upper speeds it doesn't work. Then it quits working all together again. Safe to say it's not a fuse issue, and blower seems to be ok. Oh, and the compressor is still coming on, as the AC switch is lit up and the engine cooling fan is running. So at least it's drivable, just no ac. Would also suggest it's not the actual HVAC blower switch, although it could be it. Thankfully it's projected to hit 100 degrees today. Sigh.

Do a bit of Google fu, and come to find out the ignition switch is often the culprit. Could the ignition switch be the issue with all of my current electrical gremlins? Time to find out.

So, I go online to get an ignition switch. Hmmm, my car is a 96 model. Last of a body style, kind of a transition year model. I'd call it a "red headed step child" model, much like the CFI fuel injected 84-1/2 mustang. All the ignition switches I'm finding are saying "good up to 12/95 manuf date". Hmm, what date was mine? You guessed it, 01/96.

Apparently a half year only switch. Obsolete from Ford. I'm going to call ford dealer today and try to at least get a part number so I can do a ton of searching and hopefully get lucky with someone in having one in stock. I guess worse case scenario I'll wire it up with a nascar starter. LOL
 

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1997 setup is completely different, of course. Why in the world they had a replacement in a mid year just prior to a model change. Likely only six months of production, maybe less. Sheesh.

I even looked up kit/combo of ignition switch and lockset combined. $25 for the manual and $242 for the automatic. Thankfully mine is a manual. And it still doesn't have the right ignition switch, and does not even mention the cutoff date of 12/95.
 

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SW-5154 is the motorcraft number. I am coming up with zero. I guess I need to pull it apart and look it over and confirm a few things. Hard to do during the week, as it's my daily. Grrrr, sometimes dealing with old cars gets.....old.

Oh, and the CEL popped on the focus, haven't pulled that one yet either. Guessing it will be something trans related.
 

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You'll kick it's butt Richard, I have faith.

While waiting for head gasket and oil pan gasket to arrive I did my annual oil change and bi-annual coolant change on the Volvo. When I ordered the custom radiator for the Volvo/LS I asked for a drain valve the driver's side. As you'd want, it's placed very low on the driver's side tank. And the radiator sits in a recess in the cross member so that whenever you try to turn the petcock, it comes in contact with the frame rail at the bottom making it take a pair of pliers to get past that every rotation. Pain in the butt. So I grabbed a 9/16" wrench and removed the whole thing. Took the Dremel and removed about 1/8" from each end of the "wing nut" on the valve. Now she clears. And the wife says ".....so, it took you 6 years to figure that out?" Thanks honey.
 
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