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I replaced the blower motor in my ‘02 Lexus two weeks ago at 324k miles, then my Jeep last week at 241K miles and next I think my Stang next month but with far fewer miles lol at 130k ish.

I could tell a notica difference is roatstional friction between new and old. Go figure. Dirt grit was in one and another was just plumb wore out with clear wear on the “rotor” surface I think it us called.

The stang volt meter really drops at fastest air speed setting. So I think the writing in on the wall there also.
 

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With the new Freon pipe insulation I am seeing 45F air vent Jeep temperature at 90F ambient. Thanks guys all this has really helped.
You know, I think I'll look the geo cold hose over and do the same. Every little bit will help. A few degrees here and few there adds up over time.
 
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The only place I'm "cold" under the hood on the Volvo and the 'Rolla are the suction fittings right at the compressor. Everything else is either warm or rubber. I guess with the expansion valve under the dash right at the inlet to the evaporator, I don't have much exposed cold piping. I guess that may be different with an orifice/accumulator set up?
 

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Great ideas guys. Foam installed. Header wrap not easy not needed. Today driving home was 90-95F ambient and vent temp dropped down to 48 I’d say.

Tomorrow should be a smoker too so we will see what foam might do to keep the COLD pipes COLD.

Tie wraps pulled to make sure it clears serpentine belt.

Other hose/lines are hot. I did run extra insulation over the rubber hose barely shown here as well. TBD how much it helps but every little bit I suppose.
I hope that insulation helps. But watch it closely, I think that's the least dense foam type, supposedly it will degrade fast under the hood. The dense stuff cost a little more, but it was a darker black, and relatively very firm to squeeze it. I bought both types when I renovated my laundry room 15+ years ago. I used the dense foam under the house on the hot water lines for a ways, and the other type beyond that to get close to the kitchen faucets. It all looks great under the house with no damage coming from heat etc, but on a car, I think the dense version should last a lot longer.
 

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Well - after the test run I’ve got oil and coolant leaking from almost every gasket associated the front cover. I don't have a lot of confidence that I can fix them without taking a different approach. So I started disassembling to pull the head back off. Sadly, on this engine, head must come off to remove the cover. So here we go again.
 

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I hope that insulation helps. But watch it closely, I think that's the least dense foam type, supposedly it will degrade fast under the hood. The dense stuff cost a little more, but it was a darker black, and relatively very firm to squeeze it. I bought both types when I renovated my laundry room 15+ years ago. I used the dense foam under the house on the hot water lines for a ways, and the other type beyond that to get close to the kitchen faucets. It all looks great under the house with no damage coming from heat etc, but on a car, I think the dense version should last a lot longer.
Thanks for checking Don. This may appear a light color but it indeed is the dense material. Ill keep an eye on it regardless as I am not completely sure it can handle under hood temps either.
 

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I should rephrase…. I don’t know how dense you are mentioning but I’ve seen less dense foam in this form.

I will be watching it. This week is a good test for temps for sure.
 

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Well - after the test run I’ve got oil and coolant leaking from almost every gasket associated the front cover. I don't have a lot of confidence that I can fix them without taking a different approach. So I started disassembling to pull the head back off. Sadly, on this engine, head must come off to remove the cover. So here we go again.
Well, dang. Can't win for losing. Very frustrating. If only you were in Knoxville, I could stand around being useless while you figured things out. :D
 

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I'll take all the supervision I can get. Spent an hour on the phone with an expert in Australia last night. I don't feel any better about it than I did before. All pointing me in the direction of not using any gaskets. But I have zero experience with the form-a-gasket solutions and am really reluctant to try it for fear of having to take it all back apart yet again.
 

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I'll take all the supervision I can get. Spent an hour on the phone with an expert in Australia last night. I don't feel any better about it than I did before. All pointing me in the direction of not using any gaskets. But I have zero experience with the form-a-gasket solutions and am really reluctant to try it for fear of having to take it all back apart yet again.
This sucks!

can you buy a sheet of thicker gasket material and cut one out yourself?

Ultra black might be your friend in this situation as well
 

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Well, dang. Can't win for losing. Very frustrating. If only you were in Knoxville, I could stand around being useless while you figured things out. :D
I'd like to be there too, I'd get you to take Michael away for an hour when he's got it ready to put together, and I'd slip the Ultra Black RTV in there and have it done when you got him back. I think the best RTV's can handle the 16psi of pressure, the trick would be the right amount and give it a short time to set up before torquing.
 
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I'd like to be there too, I'd get you to take Michael away for an hour when he's got it ready to put together, and I'd slip the Ultra Black RTV in there and have it done when you got him back. I think the best RTV's can handle the 16psi of pressure, the trick would be the right amount and give it a short time to set up before torquing.
I tend to agree - at this point, it looks like RTV time. Many use RTV on the front and back of 5.0 lower intakes instead of any gasket. I always preferred the rubber fell pro replacement that is reusable, but still always put a dab of rtv at the end of each one of those gaskets.

I've always heard to lay the bead down, let it "skin over" and set for a bit, then apply whatever item you are gasketing. Then torque to spec, don't touch the excess until it is all cured up.
 

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Ditto, I've built my last four engines with RTV only on the front and back of the intake. I like the rubber pieces, but I suspected that the RTV is a better material. In my home use, on my roof, chimney, flashing, the Ultra Copper and black haven't let go in 15-18 years. I had to remove a little of it once to remove the dish cables I ran along the brick and flashing. I had to use a screw driver to dig it out/off. It can handle high heat for ages, cheap silicone can't.

I even plugged up a couple of wood bee's holes in a bare spot behind my gutters, and a gap above one door where yellow jackets started a nest. They couldn't get back behind the trim board after I sealed the gap and seam. I didn't have to use any pesticides, they were gone in a couple of days.
 
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Well - after the test run I’ve got oil and coolant leaking from almost every gasket associated the front cover. I don't have a lot of confidence that I can fix them without taking a different approach. So I started disassembling to pull the head back off. Sadly, on this engine, head must come off to remove the cover. So here we go again.
Ugh...
 

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Ordered another head gasket last night. And I have to try to at least loosen the oil pan as well as the front cover seals top/bottom/sides. I’ve made 3 t’stat housing gaskets and 6 water pump gaskets.
 
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