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15+ temp variance is spec? They definitely left themselves some room for "it's within factory norms". Only climate control I have is the Sonata, and it has an AC switch that is stuck. The entire compressor has to come out for said switch to be swapped out. So guess which switch hasn't been replace? Anything above idle it cools fine, but when rpms are low it doesn't cool worth a darn.

I really should check vent temps on all of my vehicles. Person should really check when new. That way, it doesn't sneak up on you with gradually degrading temps.

Even so, out of every vehicle I have, the escort will absolutely freeze you out. it has a tremendous system on it, and it's rare to run more than fan speed "2", even in hot days. Part of that is likely because of 20% tint. Also, I applied "peel and seal" roofing tape in the entire roof for insulation factor. Roughly 1/4" mastic with a silver reflective barrier used in commercial roof installs. Old insulation trick from back in the day. Geo is the worst, I mistakenly used a dye tint instead of a ceramic when I did my tint home install. Lots of glass and no heat barrier plus a marginal AC means it gets hot quickly. I need to drop the headliner (it's sagging) and add peal and seal as well.

That Cherokee has a TON of windows and roof area. Might want ton consider dropping the headliner and taking a day for some insulation. Just a though, especially since it looks like your system is running up to spec.
 
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Back at work today, feeling about 90%. Occasional light tickle in my throat. I'm sure I'll crash from fatigue when I get home today. I'm going to miss my afternoon naps though.

Finally going to pick up the alternator for the Cobra. Between COVID and vacation, guy has had it for four weeks. Ended up being the Stator. Had some heat damage in it. Guy said that was likely the issue when the voltage regulator was replaced, but it got missed. He replaced the stator.

$65, so can't complain about that.
Who did you use Richard? I'd like to have an alternator and a starter rebuilt. It's getting harder to find places who do those sort of things. There's nothing wrong with the units except age. Would be nice to have a shop go through them, replace typical worn parts, clean them up, and make them look fairly new again.
 

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Pete Brock (BRE - Brock Racing Enterprises) prepared the 510's and 240Z's that John Morton drove - always number 46. Newman raced Bob Sharp prepared cars. Brock - west coast; Sharp - east coast. Paul won a CProd championship but in a '79 280ZX. He usually raced with number 33.
That's right. I heard a rumor that as Paul aged his age became the car number he drove. Not sure how legit it is.
 

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Who did you use Richard? I'd like to have an alternator and a starter rebuilt. It's getting harder to find places who do those sort of things. There's nothing wrong with the units except age. Would be nice to have a shop go through them, replace typical worn parts, clean them up, and make them look fairly new again.
Maryville Alternator Starter
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Auto parts store in Blount County, Tennessee

Address: 1102 Ratledge Rd, Friendsville, TN 37737
Hours:
Open ⋅ Closes 5PM
Phone: (865) 984-9556

Best to just drop by there. You will hear banjos playing. He has no less than 20 German Shepherds from 6 months old to gigantic in size. His driveway looks like something going to Stanley Bivens house. Except worse. More like going to his barn. He looks like he's straight from the pages of deliverance. His shop looks like Sanford and Sons, and if another car is there it's tight quarters to turn around and leave. And hope you don't meet another car lol. It's about 4-5 miles from where I work.

Buuttttt, he came recommended from a fellow gearhead. So I took it in there. If you'd like to me to take something by, or pick it up or whatever, feel free to let me know.
 
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Bob -- for one race as I recall. I believe in a race at Daytona there was some sponsorship by a movie he was in "Nobody's Fool" (Paramount) - and to honor that, the car number was his age. 70 at that time. His final Daytona 24 was 10 years later --- yes, at age 80.

Oops - several races after that 70 year old Daytona -- he had his car number match his age. The last was 2007 - his last race. At Watkins Glen in a 700hp GT1 Corvette. Finished 4th. Number 82.
 

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Who did you use Richard? I'd like to have an alternator and a starter rebuilt. It's getting harder to find places who do those sort of things. There's nothing wrong with the units except age. Would be nice to have a shop go through them, replace typical worn parts, clean them up, and make them look fairly new again.
In Knoxville the two I've known of for decades are Gabby's on Sutherland, and the place from after Knoxville Generator went away, they are a bit south of where the Magnolia business was. I went to both of them in the last three years, the one on Sutherland is easier to get to, but I think they are fairly busy too. The other is harder to go to, take the end of Hall of Fame Blvd, to the highway interchange there, go southward, then immediately off(same ramp goes both on and off). That's a kind of business complex area, with one road leading NE towards Magnolia. That road winds about two miles and dead ends, turn right and immediately on the right will be the shop, and old gas station lot. Both of those are good, rebuilding starters had gone up, about $60 for my last two, each.
 

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I’ve done those upgrades on my Fox but that’s a good idea eventually to do it on the Jeep. You’re right lots of windows. We do have tint there but… still lots of windows and it’s not an IR reflective coating like I see many tints now have.

I am considering an eventual mild tint on the stang but with the back defrost heater lines I may skip it. Those seem to have trouble with tint as I recall.

Well if I can do the 42-43F vent temps now in the Jeep with 85F ambient I may have done the best I can do and won’t sweat it (pun intended) .
 

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In Knoxville the two I've known of for decades are Gabby's on Sutherland, and the place from after Knoxville Generator went away, they are a bit south of where the Magnolia business was. I went to both of them in the last three years, the one on Sutherland is easier to get to, but I think they are fairly busy too. The other is harder to go to, take the end of Hall of Fame Blvd, to the highway interchange there, go southward, then immediately off(same ramp goes both on and off). That's a kind of business complex area, with one road leading NE towards Magnolia. That road winds about two miles and dead ends, turn right and immediately on the right will be the shop, and old gas station lot. Both of those are good, rebuilding starters had gone up, about $60 for my last two, each.
Do you know if they clean them up when rebuilding or do they just replace bad parts and wipe the grease off?
 

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The Ford starters they have to replace virtually every component except the housing and armature I believe. Those I had done looked great, they cleaned them very well. The alternator I had done I went to Gabby's, and it was only a couple of years old. So I don't know how they do used units for sure, it may be common to clean up the housing in most good shops. I did also buy a used one there which had been rebuilt, and it was very clean. I'd bet for starters and alternators they take them fully apart, and would clean the parts decently well.
 

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Yes I saw that, he was a good helpful member for a long time. I do wish those members in that thread hadn't brought up his banning or how they didn't like his manner. They should have simply given their condolences, or said nothing at all.
 

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I’ve done those upgrades on my Fox but that’s a good idea eventually to do it on the Jeep. You’re right lots of windows. We do have tint there but… still lots of windows and it’s not an IR reflective coating like I see many tints now have.

I am considering an eventual mild tint on the stang but with the back defrost heater lines I may skip it. Those seem to have trouble with tint as I recall.

Well if I can do the 42-43F vent temps now in the Jeep with 85F ambient I may have done the best I can do and won’t sweat it (pun intended) .
There's one last thing you might do for the AC. The wrap that is on a few of the under hood lines sometimes breaks down etc. Here's a quote from an Explorer owner on that forum I go to, he wrapped the lines and the accumulator, with common pipe insulation(the dense foam type). I have that on some of my home pipes, and it does hold together strongly, the adhesive. I bet it would help a ton for old insulation that has deteriorated, and for the accumulator if it's convenient to do that.


"fast_dave:
No problem - the very thin foam wrap from the factory sucks big time compared to the thick & high-quality wrap you buy 20 years later from Lowes & Home Depot.

For the accumulator, I used the same 3/4 I.D. Pipe Wrap I wrapped the lines with.

Check it out - one edge of the pipe wrap has an adhesive edge, and the other edge is bare.

The adhesive edge is serious stuff - you pull a cellophane edge off of it to expose the super sticky adhesive.

OK - so I cut 5 or 6 sections of wrap the same length as the accumulator.

Than I let the adhesive edge on one length mate up to the edge of another length that didn't have adhesive.

I intertwined the sections of pipe wrap via that method so that they circled the entire circumference of the accumulator.

I "fed" the "foam blanket" around the circumference of the accumulator, and when it the accumulator was encircled, I peeled the cellophane off of the last section and let it mate up with the last bare edge of pipe wrap.

For good measure, I then added zip ties top, middle and bottom so the ""foam blanket" didn't slip off.

When I was done with insulating the whole system, my A/C got so cold face would freeze and my eyes would water.

I literally had to move the vents so that the air wouldn't hit my face - and this was occurring on 100 degree days.

Hope that helps -"
 
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What a logical suggestion of course! Thanks Don, I’ll look into that. I ever was able to get Rockwool insulation for my intake tube in the mustang but I will find something along these lines. Maybe more exhaust header wrap even.

Kicking myself as that’s a great idea.
 

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I don't think the exhaust header wrap would be a good choice. Some type of actual pipe/foam insulation would be better.
 
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indy2000 passed away from a heart attack.
He rubbed me the wrong way when I first joined the corral. After a while I started to understand him better and saw it as “tough love”
He was like our resident “Dr. House”
 

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I don't think the exhaust header wrap would be a good choice. Some type of actual pipe/foam insulation would be better.
I am not sure how close to the exhaust heat the system is honestly. Was thinking about the Stang with the drier right above the headers. If so I’ll need the foam insulated from the heat that would damage it. But yes foam would be far better insulation. I’ll see what I can pull off and might tdo something on the other cars as well lol. You guys sure are helpful. :)
 
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