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That hose should work. Have you thought about shortening the radiator outlet, that one is very long? I think it needs about 60% of that length, cutting a little off would make the hose curve fit better. It doesn't even need the nipple/edge, given the straight on hose and thermostat. I bet you could shorten that and deburr it in five minutes, plus the radiator R&R time.
 

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Yea and I have tested it with this and as of 24hrs this weekend at Spring weather conditions it pulled 1.1kW over that time. Same as my upstairs kitchen fridge freezer that gets opens a lot during the day. Only this one of course is rarely opened.
 

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You may recall -- I fabricated a third motor mount that attaches to the valve/cam cover and attaches to the upper strut bar with stiff rubber bushings. You can see it in the pic below. Added a third mount to the Volvo/LS as well for the same reason. I'm not a fan of the engine wasting torque twisting up rubber motor and tranny mounts. Engine movement not a problem. However, actually getting the hose on will be a challenge. It will require removing the t'stat housing each time.

Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive air manifold Automotive fuel system
 

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Don - I have thought about shortening the necks on both pieces. The radiator is just sitting in there R&R time not an issue. I wouldn't want to have the outlet without the raised lip -- the lip is where the seal actually takes place with the clamp properly placed right behind it. So, if I shorten, it'll be sectioning out a piece and welding the tip back on so I have the lip.
 

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100% in something under 7hrs. I wasn’t home to check mid day. 620w total. 100ah full. Nice.

I can easily run a deep freezer and fridge/freezer for a day off one full battery. Keeps my food investments safe.
 

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Don - I have thought about shortening the necks on both pieces. The radiator is just sitting in there R&R time not an issue. I wouldn't want to have the outlet without the raised lip -- the lip is where the seal actually takes place with the clamp properly placed right behind it. So, if I shorten, it'll be sectioning out a piece and welding the tip back on so I have the lip.
Yes, my first thought was it has to have the lip, many times/examples a hose has come off due to lack of a tight enough clamp. I really prefer the OEM Ford clamps of the last 25 years, they are stronger than the typical worm clamp, thicker steel and apply pressure over a larger area. I agree you want the lip, I might try it though given that hose which cannot push off. The lip does increase the seal pressure for sure.
 
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The OEM spring-style clamps are really the best provided they're sized properly. As things expand and contract thermally, they give/take to manage that. Better than a stainless band clamp. But -- tougher to find.
 

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The OEM spring-style clamps are really the best provided they're sized properly. As things expand and contract thermally, they give/take to manage that. Better than a stainless band clamp. But -- tougher to find.
Exactly, they are made sized for the hose intended, and hold tighter as a result. My last 98 Explorer someone had replaced the water pump and various hoses. All of the clamps were fairly new looking worm clamps. When I had to R&R the timing cover, likely due to the WP job, I had two leaks initially. One at the WP and one on the top radiator hose, small trickles, and I thought I had the clamps tight enough. I hate to crank those clamps so much they cut the rubber hose, but I did tighten those two screws another once or so around.

The OEM clamps are tough and basically if you can get the special tool, then they aren't that bad to remove or install.
 

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Update on my son's job: As of right now, he will be starting Monday with Newell Brands here in Maryville. They literally didn't move a penny on salary negotiation. They have a pretty strong benefits package, but would have been nice to move at least a little. He went on a plant tour yesterday after his drug screening. Very modern plant, even have robotic forklifts and such. He liked his future boss, flexible on schedule, etc. Huge plant.

The place where he did his internship contacted him yesterday. They lost one of their engineers and are interested in him. He told them to put a job description together/package and he'd look it over. He said they'd have to throw a lot of money at him before he went back there. Definite advantage as far as being super close to home and decent benefits, but not as good as Newell. Disadvantage being the buyout late last year and the subsequent reduction in payroll from letting people go/people leaving of their own accord. The culture there is a bit suspect with the new owners (out of Texas). Doesn't help that when they first bought them, President of the new owners assured everyone in a group zoom that all jobs were safe etc etc.

Absolute crickets from ORNL. Second series of interviews went great, but hasn't heard a word from them. They are a govt deal, so it might take months before he hears anything, or he may never hear anything.

Phone interview with Denso today, we shall see how that goes. If anything, these additional interviews should help to determine overall package worth and such.

He definitely likes Newell and feels there will be a lot of opportunity there. His boss has been there 8 years with four upward moves within the company in that time period.

Like I told him, this will simply be the first stop in his career, get the experience and the money will come easiest with company swaps.
 

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Well summarized. After working in clearance required gov settings, yes they are VERY slow as you mentioned. I am glad he has an offer! I’d use that in negotiations and see if others top it and make themselves worthy of consideration.

As you mentioned, it’s just a first job. I’d be SURE he plans to stay at least a year before moving. Otherwise it makes him look uncommitted. But in 2-3yrs if it’s not panning out- find one that Does! :cool:. Exciting times!!


Parathyroid surgery Fri morn. Ooh boy. Doc says no driving for two weeks so as not to risk rapid neck movements (traffic/accidents etc). We will see on that. For sure none the weekend any maybe first few days of work will be from home.

My right achilled tendon broke and my doc said no driving for six months. I laughed and got home and drove the neighborhood with my left foot. Then I drove that way for 6mo. But that was different. TBD.
 

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Yes, at least a year for sure.

Here's for a speedy recovery from the surgery. I'm sure they just don't want you to rip open the sutures. Lol at the achilles tendon story.
 
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Good luck with the surgery Chris. We’ll be pullin’ for you. I follow South Main Auto Repair on the tube. Eric is a great diagnostic tech - his wife, “Mrs. O” had the same surgery a while back and they talked about it.

Not that anyone asked, but if your son (Richard) is seriously hoping for/considering other offers, I’d probably think twice about accepting the Newell offer. Just a “good faith” issue. On the other hand - employment is “at will” for both parties. Might provide Newell some good feedback if they were non-responsive on salary and 3 weeks later he moved on for a significantly better deal.
 

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I think it would have to be silly money for him to go to his previous internship provider. I don't see them offering silly money.

Denso is more of a "curiosity thing" than anything.

If ORNL offers a position he would definitely take it.

Newell not budging on the salary was a bit of a disappointment for him. They didn't even counter at all. It was all from HR corporate, and sometimes that corporate location can be a bit out of touch when it comes to negotiations like that. Then again, he's fresh out of school and I imagine they will have no problem finding other students fresh out of school. Could be the old "pay less now and get another in a few years" deal.
 

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Ooh my apologies. My brain has been wrapped up in it so much I didn’t realize it might not be clear.

The battery cables are pure copper of course and will replace the smaller cables I preciously showed. The smaller current cables never got beyond barely above ambient by feel when I was discharging the current as fast as I could on Sunday to empty the battery. But…. I want better just to be sure.

The black and red rectangles are 4 post distribution boxes to allow me to better route connections and avoid the multiple cables on each battery terminal (currently maxed out).

The trailer picture is three more solar panels. One is a spare but my charge controller will allow two more at 24v. I’ll run a 2S2P design (two series strings but each in parallel) to give me a max of 90v and 18A From the solar panels.

I can’t wait to drain down th battery and see how fast I can charge it up on another sunny day. Wifey is planning on doing all her clothes washing on battery power lol.

While now just trying to edit I hit REPORT lol.

Once the drugs from my surgery wears off late Friday or Saturday morning I’ll rewire the system and show more pictures. I hope to get another battery soon to allow greater power reserve.
 

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It just dawned on me that the battery cables were on the trunk of the Mustang which would give the impression they were upgrades for the car. My bad! Wooops…….
 

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Michael, this is the article


where I’ve read something on covering panels:


“First, as long as you have charge controllers (which is highly recommended) there’s no big reason to cover your solar panels when not in use.”
 
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