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Nice save indeed.

I suspected it was a kit of some type. Just knew it was something I hadn’t seen before.
 

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Quick question guys. What exhaust gaskets you like best? Driving stang to work today (since Jeep is DOA) I have a small leak I believe. I’d better get a new gasket int there before I damage the head seal surface.
 

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Oh and as of yesterday 3M is going to require getting shot with the experimental use authorization drug to be employed. Yes I got the first two but based upon what I know now I’ll have a tough choice at the next shots they require. This is going down hill FAST.
 

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Quick question guys. What exhaust gaskets you like best? Driving stang to work today (since Jeep is DOA) I have a small leak I believe. I’d better get a new gasket int there before I damage the head seal surface.
Last ones I did (somewhere around 1996/1997, was felpro with permatex red dressing up each side. Or the head side, can't remember for sure. I'm sure Bob is a good source for them, as he is a bit more "current" on our old 5.0s than I am.
 

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Bob pointed me in the right direction FelPro metal in the middle gaskets awaiting me at OReillys this afternoon.
 

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I used the metal/graphite composites - but you may have to open them up a bit depending on primary tube size. Coincidence that there’s a leak after messing around with studs vs bolts?
 

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I drove it a few miles with one bolt missing and the other getting loose. I suspect gasket damage and now do see some black exhaust residue around 2 o’clock on that port. I tightened them down once I realized what happened when I got home. I suspect that’s the deal. That port did NOT work well for a stud anyway. As Bob mentioned the studs make complete removal of header pipes problematic. If I’d have realized this would just have bought more SS bolts instead. But it was too late when I got bobs wisdom. Units were already nearly home and I fully realized what he was saying only after installing one. A single Selective location on each header may be helpful and work however. TBD when I remove the header to do the gasket lol.
 

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Wow…. $85k SOLD. Nice.

ORiellys let me down. They had an “equivalent” exhaust gasket saved for me. Looks like my Summit Racing order is fall back position with one day lost. I double checked each bolt and hopefully do no harm till gasket arrives.
 

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The head shouldn't be hurt by a couple of days with a leak there. Apply a thin film of Ultra Copper RTV to help the gaskets seal better at the head ports.
 

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Light coating got it. I previously used multilayer aluminum or soft white metal gaskets. But that was before Scott put this motor together for me. Those were reusable and didn’t seem to need a high temp silicone layer. But… I’d rather go with the more current experience of my wise peers here this time. :cool:
 

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Header gaskets have evolved through many different materials and combinations. The old crap is still made, and many headers still come with those. I haven't installed any since the early 2002 range, so I never got to try the aluminum or copper type, those sounded interesting back then. I think it's similar to gaskets for a valve cover, like the cork crap, you need something which crushes, deforms to fit etc. But it has to be strong and stable enough to survive past 5-10 years and not come apart. Cork is terrible as it gets older, but if you replace them every couple of years, you might love them. Many header gaskets will seal well to begin with, but leaks begin with enough age, and then they get worse fast.
 
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It does look great.

But 10 spark plugs, at $54 each, or a trans vent pipe for $1130, trans fluid at $50 a quart, never mind the $12500 clutch? The two v-belts are $350 each, why is the battery only $222?
 
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If you can afford the car, maintenance and repairs are chump change. As daddy used to say - 'son, it's only expensive if you can't afford it.'

Well, it appears I may have declared 'vibration victory' too soon on the Volvo. With the windows down, not so noticeable. But with windows up adding some resonance -- really not any better than it was before. The replacement bushing I bought was actually shorter and didn't fit as tight to the yoke as the used bush did. So I found a bush the same size as the OEM (stamped with Ford logo) through NPD - I'm gonna measure the ID and use either it or the one that came out in the first place. The yoke measures 1.500" OD. The used bush measures 1.498-1.499" - pretty danged snug fit. The "new" bush only measured 1.493" - .007"/2 = .035" gap. Probably too loose. Amazon/Chinese bushing quality no doubt.

And, I'm gonna do something I probably should've done long ago - order a quality aftermarket driveshaft. Aluminum if I can get by with a 3". If they want to spec 3.5" - I won't have room and I'll go for a 3" steel. Eliminate my $140 Knoxville truck shop driveshaft as a possible issue.

Get the car back up in the air.....
 
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