That looks very promising. You might as well put the top end back on it, it looks like the rest of it got through the chamber and into the header. If it starts okay then watch that header pipe and the collector closely, down to the cat. If you perceive any overheating, shut it down quickly. Unless the paper stops flow in the exhaust completely, it should burn up fast.
Excellent, the cats would be the smallest holed object going out. The mufflers will have small holes but the paper will be spread out enough it cannot block airflow, so it will burn up there no matter what.
Working on the plastic that surrounds the steering column. An upper half and lower half that bolt together and should bolt to the column. Prev owner had the tach clamped to this plastic with a big stainless clamp, which had, of course, cracked various bits of the column cover. So, JBWeld gone wild to the rescue.
Step one - secure the tach without the clamp. It's a very lightweight, plastic housing tach. So I reinforced the bottom of the cover, and bolted the tach mount to it.
There were two pedestals inside -- two screws came through them from the bottom to secure the bottom half of the cover to the column. Well, one pedestal was missing it's top (screw head had nothing to hold to), and the other was split half in two. So I epoxied some nuts in there to rebuild the pedestals. The hole in the nut is larger than the screw that goes through them into the the threaded holes in the column. Doesn't look pretty on the inside -- but it works! And outside looks stock.
Some foam padding to secure/quiet down the end near the dash.
As part of doing the best I can setting up the carbs/tune, set about checking valve lash today. And my new dizzy showed up -- EXACTLY like the one in the car, same electrical plug and wiring - even the same color plug and wires! Car is a 73 Corolla powered by a motor out of an 82 Corolla (1.8L vs 1.6L that came stock). Owner told me he put in a later model 1.6 dizzy with electronic ignition. So I guessed 78 Corolla. I guessed right!
Flat blade screw driver and a 12mm wrench to adjust. So simple, elegant. Set to .007" intake and .011" exhaust, both cold specs. They weren't far off at all. Got a new dizzy cap, rotor, valve cover gasket (including the spark plug seals -- because, it's a HEMI) and 4 Iridium Denso spark plugs -- $28.
Now - confused. Reading lots of stuff that says for cast iron block and aluminum head, subtract .006" for a cold engine. And, of course, check/set hot. That would put me at .002" intake and .006" exh cold. I also think that those guidelines are for a traditional small block/big block Ford/Chevy/Mopar where the blocks and heads are much bigger physically than this little engine. So the gap change would be bigger on those. I think I'm gonna set 'em at a tight .006" and .010" and then check 'em hot. Learning all kinds of good stuff!
I'm in NJ and considering a long-distance vehicle purchase in northern AL. I'd like to find someone to look the car over to make sure I'm not wasting my time. Willing to compensate for the help. Please send a PM or reply if interested. Thank you.
Okay boys and girls....
1991 Foxbody, has a cervinis stalker hood and front bumper. Original Oxford White car with pain that while garage kept has a few golf ball marks, swirls etc. Really wanting someone to do a great job on this car but I'm unsure what is a realistic price to pay. I've heard...
Looking for Southwest Florida Shops
Can anyone recommend some good or specialized shops for fox body and newer Mustang work in the Naples or Ft. Myers, FL area (engine tuning, suspension, axle, welding, exhaust, parts, etc.)?
A forum community dedicated to Ford Mustang owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, production numbers, VIN decoders, modifications, troubleshooting, power adders, DIY tutorials, and more!