Looks perfect. Well done.
That sounds more accurate than the old method with multiple vacuum gauges. My friend used to do that in the 70's, and he was used to the Honda CBX's(six cylinders and carbs). Now he's been playing with the V4 Yamaha he has, and one of the two carb's has issues with the fuel coming into the bowls.Adjusted lights today. Followed Daniel Stern’s guidance, but because this car is so small/low, I only lowered the pattern 2” instead of his recommended 3”. I put a carpenter’s level on the cowl and shot a straight line down the crease in the center of the hood as a proxy for having the car pointing straight ahead. With the bumper touching the wall I used the laser to mark the centerline of the car. Then I kept the laser on the centerline as I backed the car up 25’. It’s amazing how far off you can be if you just push it back what you “think” is straight. Adjustment was easy. Can’t wait to get these Cibie E-codes on relays. Then I can put in some more serious wattage on the bulbs.
Shot below is the laser on the marked centerline with the car 25' back from the wall. And my carb air meter arrived today -- so some carb adjusting in my future. If I'm able to get all 4 throats balanced (same amount of air moving through at idle) then I'm going to try something different for setting the idle air/fuel screws. If the same amount of air is moving into each cylinder, then mixture differences should affect the temp in the header primary. So I'm gonna use my IR temp gun shooting at each primary and try to set idle air/fuel by equalizing temps on the primaries. We'll see.