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I’ve literally not taken the intake off anything in twenty years lol. No help here. Goodson will probably have some insite.

Maybe try tightening the others back up in proper sequence and see if that takes some pressure off it? I’d also see if it will tighten any at all first.
 

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I suppose since I didn’t pop the lower seal loose, I can reinstall and retighten the others. This may fix my slight oil leak?

This could turn into a big project if that bolt breaks.....
 

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Good point I did that as well Richard. Tried tightening and loosening back and forth. Doesn’t seem to budge.
 

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It's best to break all bolts loose before fully loosening any of them, but that's not likely to get that one loose by backing up.

The lower bolts aren't as bad as water pump bolts to get loose, or to break. But it can happen, and the methods to avoid it are many. The torch is the old school way to "cook" the bolt/threads/corrosion etc, to break the bond where parts have seized together.

I've never done the torch method, but I like the idea I read of a few years ago, using jumper cables. Liberal use of penetrants is the best first step, with a very well fitting socket etc. If you feel it requiring much too much torque and it not let go, or it feels like it's barely moving(the bolt is twisting apart), then stop. Give it that much effort to try to loosen the bolt, but if it does that, stop and go to a different method.

Look on You tube, I'm sure it's there about using a battery and cables to run high current through the bolt for a couple seconds or so. I recall seeing something there when I looked years ago. I think the whole point is to use the current to break the bond of the bolt and the intake or water pump etc. It shouldn't take much if it's going to work, but it does sound risky to mess with shorting a battery that way.

I've never done that, but I expect to learn soon for a WP I have, which one bolt broke last Summer when I tried to do the timing chain and WP. Good luck,
 

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Good ideas Don thank you. Yes the bolt is at the point where I hate to turn it any further. It looks like the head of the bolt is flush tight against the lower. I can’t imagine any PB getting in there but it’s worth a shot.

I don’t have a torch and propane just doesn’t get the job done in my experience.

Ill try more PB but it’s quite possible I’ll just tighten everything back down and see if that fixes the occasional drip.

Note- just ran all bolts thru a tap to clean the threads and coated with anti-seize. Installed them snug and will torque tomorrow.

Soaked the one with PB again but am not hopeful. Maybe taking the load off with all other bolts in could help as suggested. Maybe I’ll find someone local with a torch to try.....

If not I’ll reassemble fully and see if the tightening helped.
 

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That one is near the water passage. If any water has reached that bolt then it has corroded.

I would spray it every day for a week or more with PB blaster and work to get it out. I wouldn't let it sit. I would have to remove it, but that's me.

Heat induction tool could be your friend. Those work good.

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Heat induction tool? I’ve never heard of that. Thanks Bob I’ll look it up
 

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Wow this looks awesome. Far better than a torch.
Thanks Bob I’ll likely get one of these if PB and my cheap Harbor Freight electric impact doesn’t bust it loose.

Do you have experience with one that might be better or not to another? I’ve seen some for 2.5x this price. Those are likely out of my range but this one I could pick up. I’ll keep you all posted. Thanks for the ideas!
 

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amazingly well done.
It was a large investment. The buyer definitely paid up for it. $250k investment. And the attention to detail shows. It's an amazing build.

Start with the cheap one. No need to make a huge investment if you're only going to use it a couple of times. The ones a buddy of mine have at his shop are worth the squeeze for him. It's the difference between a broken bolt or something coming apart. The former costs him time and labor. So he's bought the expensive ones. And they use it every day. They work on vehicles that are an "appliance" to the owner.

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I asked a mechanic I know who swore by them for northern salt road vehicles. The suggested if you heat things up too much it would melt aluminum and that it’d be smart to spray down the manifold with water to keep it from getting too hot.

I’d never had thought a 110v unit might do that here. Sure eye opening.

Thanks for the suggestions Bob. Once this is out I may replace the bolts with ARP studs if they make a kit for it.

PS- the bolt screws into the head I see. It’s been 13 years since I took off a manifold- forgot!!

But it’s a LONG way for the heat to go before it ever gets to the threads down there. I do worry about messing up the temper of the bolt. With my luck I’ll make it weaker and shear it off anyway.

I may keep playing with PB Blaster and Kroil and see if I can get any down there to help.

I couldn’t find a set of ARP studs right for the manifold. Summit had some but they look too short in thread engagement to work right. Couple reviews backed up my thoughts too.
 

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I could see lazy mechanics going hard at a bolt and it melt aluminum. It applies more direct heat to the bolt than a torch. Any transfer of heat from the bolt to the aluminum head or intake is going to go through the gunk holding the bolt. That's what you want. You wrap the bolt with the induction element and pull the trigger. You'll see some smoke which is no different than a torch boiling off PB blaster. The great thing about it is that you don't have to worry about indirect flame hitting other things like wiring or plastic parts 3-4" away.

Also be sure you're righty tighty, lefty loosey. Lol

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Yeah I can see acetylene melting aluminum but it’s hard for me to imagine the 110v outlet providing that type of energy. Just doesn't seem quite right.

Counter clockwise .... got it!
 

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Bad news. And good news.

Good first, I didn’t waste money on an induction heater.

Bad news is bolt broke with butane torch on it for an hour and my 18v battery impact wrench..... and I thought I was loosening it as that wrench is a cheap weak HF model.

I think head has to come off now.

Also intake gasket was wonky. Looks like it slipped over the years as the intake bolts were loose and it sagged I’d guess.

All to fix a small oil leak. Oh well. Hope this doesfix it lol.
 

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Bad news. And good news.

Good first, I didn’t waste money on an induction heater.

Bad news is bolt broke with butane torch on it for an hour and my 18v battery impact wrench..... and I thought I was loosening it as that wrench is a cheap weak HF model.

I think head has to come off now.

Also intake gasket was wonky. Looks like it slipped on Scott when he was installing it. Odd.

All to fix a small oil leak. Oh well. Hope this doesfix it lol.
For some reason i can't see the pictures to see where the bolt sheared off. If it is below the head or any of it sticks up. But any way if you have access to a welder. (Tig) is the preferred because you can control the heat and localize the arc better but I have used a mig welder also. Just harder to control the weld splatter. But if you use the welder to weld a bolt or nut on the remaining stub of bolt stuck in the head the heat from the welding process does much like the induction heater, and amost all the time frees the broken bolt from the hole.

I have done this multiple times with great success. I have been battling an oil consumption issue on my mustang and fear the intake gasket has slipped. I have been avoiding it because of what you are going thru right now. I figure if it can go wrong or break it will for me. Sorry for the luck hopefully you can get it out with out alot of aggravation.

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