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Anybody got any cheap 5 lug wheels with tires in ANY condition. I've got to go tonight and get the original brake parts from the farm. At the very least I am going to pull the Cobra brakes off it. Probably take out the stereo too as I have a factory one to go back.
 

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Hey Fellas

Just doing my quarterly check-in.

Glad to see everyone is doing ok. Jeff, I hope Camie recovers quickly. Sorry to see you lost her car though.

I haven't been doing much of anything lately, 'cept raising the little ones and taking classes. I now have an '02 Explorer to join the Altima in the stable. At least when I get a mustang to play with I'll have something to tow it back from the track with. ;)

You know ...my Altima is well broken in now...hmmm
I miss racing!

Joe Zitelli

www.waynesdyno.net
www.waynesdyno.net/family6.html
 

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well guys I am back from a week off. Time to start the new job.

Dyno Day?? what day is everyone going for?? I will come and hang out.

Jeff, sorry to hear abou that loss. Michael is right. You need to get to the car before the adjusters do. When they see it they will base the value of the car on the exact condition. After that you have to get their permission to do anything to it. Even though you still have the title.
 

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Welcome back Bob - here any good music in Nawlin's?

Jeff - haven't heard back from you; you still need a hand Monday morning? Need to know where and when if you do. I can help first thing Monday morning but not much after that. Tomorrow's my wife's birthday and we've got plans for most of the day. I'm usually up around 7 - 7:30. Call me at 602-3580 if you need a hand.
 

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Jeff,

Sorry about the car. The fact that Camie is ok, is the important thing. Sorry that I didn't have any 5 lug rims or wheels.

Bob, glad your back. How was 'Nawlins?

I'm up for the dyno day definitely. Oh yeah, installed the tach today. I'm very happy with it so far.

So, Jeff, you gonna have cobra brakes for sale now? :)

Being in the insurance industry, it's your car. Sure with that kind of damage a police report must be filed but you don't have to file a claim. You may want to pay for it all etc.. you know? If you file the claim and agree on the settlement, they'll more than likely total it out and pay whatever $$$ as it sits, then it's harder to do. If no adjuster has looked at it, pull all of the stuff that you want to keep off of it, put the stock crap back on and then have them look at it. Besides, the insurance company for the other driver (assuming the guy was insured to begin with) should be paying for the damages etc.... Make sure Camie goes to the doctor to get checked out and then to wait a couple of weeks prior to settling any kind of bodily injury claim. Sometimes, things take awhile to surface.

If you have any other specific insurance questions, feel free to give me a call. I may not be able to answer everything but will try to. Call me on my cell 405-0649 or tomorrow at work 425-5964. It's my direct extension.

Later.
 

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So, after a couple days of driving with the new tach, I have discovered that it was off by at least 1000rpms in the upper section. I wound 2nd out to 6grand last night and it was definitely a lot harder than I'd pushed it before.

The car definitely feels like it's being restricted by this driveline vibration that I'm getting at high rpms. Don't know if the aluminum DS is somehow out of balance or a backlash problem in the gears or what. I don't believe that it has this vibration when I just rev it in neutral. It's when I'm actually driving.

Anyone have any ideas?

Later.
 

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Does the vibration simply increase with speed? Or does it have range of speed where the vibration starts, gets worse, and then smoots out above it? Have you slipped it out of gear at say - 75 mph - and let the engine revs drop back to idle? I think that's a better way to try and isolate things. Take 'er for ride tonight and try that. That should highlight things. If the vibration is there with the engine at idle and the road speed at 60 or 70 - then it's driveline. If it coasts along smoothly - it's either engine, tranny or something in the driveline that's excited by the engine revs (tougher to trouble shoot). I've had a number of driveline vibration issues over the years - all of them except one was u-joint or bent/dented driveshaft. The one that wasn't was a bad rear end - after 6 years of towing my race car with my Bronco II and it's little rear end.
 

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Michael,

Basically it increases with rpms. I can be at 2nd gear and wind it up and I can hear it. Doesn't matter the speed only if I wind up the rpms.

Could it be too much backlash? I have an alum. DS but it somehow got a couple of grooves in it. Of course they're even but could that do it.

Thanks.
 

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It could be the driveshaft is rubbing on the mufflers,you might want to check them on a 4 post lift.Did you recently change gears by chance?
 

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Jeff - everything work out ok on the car? Cammie (one m or 2?) recovering?

Brian - did you try slipping it out of gear at speed in different gears and letting it coast? If you're certain it happens with increasing rpm, then it's more likely it's engine related rather than driveline - my guess. What's your balancer/flywheel situation? Was that all part of a stock shortblock? Or did you assemble the bottom end too?
 

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broncobuddha said:
Michael,

Basically it increases with rpms. I can be at 2nd gear and wind it up and I can hear it. Doesn't matter the speed only if I wind up the rpms.

Could it be too much backlash? I have an alum. DS but it somehow got a couple of grooves in it. Of course they're even but could that do it.

Thanks.
I'd be willing to bet that it is the motor itself. 5.0's aren't known for being the smoothest running motors. My car has it, my buddy's 93 Cobra has it. I have a T5-z tranny and it didn't change it. My buddy has a Tremec and Moser axles, made no difference at all. I've always wanted to put a good aftermarket balancer on my car to see if it makes a difference, just haven't wanted to spend the money on it (especially since I was saving for my Tweecer R/T, which I have now :) . It's amazing how much smoother the modular motors are at rpm. So smooth, in fact, they are hard to tell if they are turning a lot of rpm.

I wouid bet the grooves are from the mufflers. Bet they are at the back of driveshaft, right?
 

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broncobuddha said:
Michael,

Basically it increases with rpms. I can be at 2nd gear and wind it up and I can hear it. Doesn't matter the speed only if I wind up the rpms.

Could it be too much backlash? I have an alum. DS but it somehow got a couple of grooves in it. Of course they're even but could that do it.

Thanks.
If it increases with rpms, it isn't anything past the transmission. It has to be the engine, flywheel/clutch or in the transmission itself. If you can feel the vibration when the car is out of gear, it will most likely eliminate the transmission as the source. That leaves the clutch/flywheel or something in the engine itself.

Did you have the reciprocating assembly balanced while it was apart? Meaning clutch, flywheel, crank and balancer checked?
 

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I'd add to Paul's comments - I mentioned the engine "exciting" something in the driveline. Scott's thoughts about the mufflers touching something fall into that category. Exhaust system vibrations/contact and resonances can do some pretty amazing things inside the car if the frequency generated happens to coincide with a natural harmonic frequency of the structure.
 

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You guys are scaring me that it could be the engine. Everything was taken apart. We didn't remove the crank, but did change out the main and rod bearings. Flywheel is stock that I just had cleaned up. Balancer is original.

Scott, I had this rear-end and set of gears in my hatchback. When I originally had the gears installed over a year ago, I had this howling problem after I had them done. I immediately thought that the shop that had done them set the backlash to tight. I bought an aluminum driveshaft and that actually cured the problem.

When I think the grooves in the ocurred was when I swapped transmissions. I had the car pretty high in the air (all 4 corners) but think the suspension was unloaded. I noticed things were really close and when I was testing the transmission, I think that's when I scraped it. When it's on the ground with the suspension loaded, I don't see where it could be rubbing.

However, if it were the engine, then why wouldn't it make that noise when I rev it in neutral? This would lead me to believe that it would have to be somewhere from the tranny, back you know?

One of you would probably have to ride with me to see what I'm talking about.

Michael, I didn't think to let it out of gear today but I'll try it on the way home, but I'm pretty sure it's nothing to do with actual speed.

Jeff, Hmm.... I was leaning towards the 95 spindles with ranger axles to keep the stock track width. Those are sealed bearings in the 95s, do they go bad? I mean the 98s with less mileage certainly sound better but I guess that would mean that I would be using SN95 rear axles and would probably have to stick to 17x8 rims. What do you think?

Thanks for the suggestions guys!

Scott, any word on the dyno day?
 

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I haven't been able to successfully change main bearings without removing the crank yet. I'm curious how you did that. :) Did you check TDC on your balancer/pointer when you degreed the cam? A couple of symptoms of a balancer on it's way out are that TDC is misplaced - the inner part and outer part of the balancer have rubber in between them and as the rubber starts to age/give out, the outside of the balancer rotates with respect to the inner part throwing all the ignition timing readings off and, of course, making the balancer ineffective. One way to check that is to establish tdc with a piston stop and see if the pointer is actually pointing there. The other thing that sometimes shows up is the rubber sort of appears to 'ooze' out from in between the inner and outer parts - it's hard to describe. I checked mine when I put the custom cam in and it hits right on tdc.

Other things to check out - motor/tranny mounts can cause weird vibrations - seem to remember yours are new though. If there are any cracks/weld breaks in the structure weird vibrations can show up. I think I'd check further into the diff though - if it was howling before, something was not right despite the fact that the alum ds quelled the noise.
 
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