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broncobuddha said:
Lower rpm in any gear bucks. It may just be the cam profile. I still think it should run a little smoother though. Need to get an A/F gauge and see what's up?
Welcome to my world... :(

I'm saving my money up for a Tweecer R/T, as I've exhausted all other possibilities.
 

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Goodson said:
Richard, good to see you in here on our little board inside a board. :D I was down in Madisonville last friday gathering parts for my car. you don't know anyone who has 93 cobra axles and rear brake parts do ya? I need some to rebuild a rear end.
I've been here for a while, just mainly lurking and throwing in help when I can. I'm afraid I don't know anyone with the axles or brake parts, have one buddy with moser axles, but he sold his stock axles to another buddy who broke one of his at the strip (at one time there were 5-6 93 Cobra's in little old Madisonville (who would have thought that?). Tell you what, buy a set of Moser axles and I'll trade them even for my stock axles :D
 

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Michael Yount said:
the key is to bring it to a complete stop, and then slip it into a foward gear briefly before trying to put it in reverse. When you select a forward gear first that will stop all the tranny/gear/shaft momentum and it will then slip right into reverse with no drama or embarassing crunching.
Michael is right on the money here. I think it has to do with the fact there is no synchronizer on reverse. Just pop that puppy into a forward gear first and it gets everything lined up right, then go to reverse. My T5-Z has done that since new on day one, as every other mustang has that I have paid attention to.

Your stiffness between gears is a bit of a mystery. It is prob. not synchronizers since you don't have any grinding. So it could be clutch adjustment. Hopefully you put the correct fluid in the tranny, it uses ATF, not gear oil (you prob. know that, just trying to cover all the bases).
 

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Clay,
That sux! Did they get anything out of the car, or just bust the window out just for the heck of it?
 

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Wait till you start vacuuming the glass out of your car. It will be everywhere. You may as well plan on pulling the seats out, or you'll be finding glass for the next year. Not that thats ever happened to me...
 

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You guys don't want to know how easy it is to get into a mustang with a simple coat hanger, I've locked my keys in my car and gotten back into it in about ... 20 seconds.

Goodson, say hi to Stan for me, haven't seen him in a while. He's still got a quart of Teal paint I bought for the cowl induction hood I never got, of course I'm sure it's sludge by now :D
 

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tnturbo said:
SCMC in conjuction with Ted Russell Ford is having an all Ford show on Saturday Oct. 4 at the dealership. there will be trophies and numerous prizes such as gift certificates to the participants.
I'm guessing the show is at the Parkside Drive location?
 

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93COBRA665 said:
Hey guys,

I'd be interested in meeting up with yall! I live in knoxville, and drive a 93 cobra (black). I am finishing up school at UT and work as well. Just looking for some good times, and going out to the track once in a while. It looks to me like you guys usually meet up every once in a while at some local restaurants and hang out; let me know when the next ones planned, and I'll come out and meet you all.

Thanks,
Jarrod
Good to see another 93 Cobra in the area. Be careful where you park that baby at door dinger central. I used to park mine all the way down at Neyland drive in that small commuter lot across from Thompson Boling. There are several "non-door dingers" spots there. :D
 

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broncobuddha said:
Also put my Bosch platinums back in and my SVT pedals on. What a PITA that was. They look good though and provide good traction.

Later
I'll back you on that, I've got Steeda pedals on mine. You don't know how tough the pedals are until you try to drill into them :mad: . The only way I'd ever put another set on would be if they slipped over the stock pedals, not drilled into them.
 

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For anyone interested, there's a cruise-in in downtown Athens (TN) on Saturday Night. Usually runs from 6-8 pm. Located around the courthouse, they block off the entire block and everyone parks their cars all around.
 

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broncobuddha said:
Michael,

Basically it increases with rpms. I can be at 2nd gear and wind it up and I can hear it. Doesn't matter the speed only if I wind up the rpms.

Could it be too much backlash? I have an alum. DS but it somehow got a couple of grooves in it. Of course they're even but could that do it.

Thanks.
I'd be willing to bet that it is the motor itself. 5.0's aren't known for being the smoothest running motors. My car has it, my buddy's 93 Cobra has it. I have a T5-z tranny and it didn't change it. My buddy has a Tremec and Moser axles, made no difference at all. I've always wanted to put a good aftermarket balancer on my car to see if it makes a difference, just haven't wanted to spend the money on it (especially since I was saving for my Tweecer R/T, which I have now :) . It's amazing how much smoother the modular motors are at rpm. So smooth, in fact, they are hard to tell if they are turning a lot of rpm.

I wouid bet the grooves are from the mufflers. Bet they are at the back of driveshaft, right?
 

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broncobuddha said:
Well, went to 411 to disappointment yet again... Michael, sorry I missed you on Sat morning. Ended up spending time with Shannon.

Well, I did worse. Best I could do was 9.5. I tried shifting at 6k, 6200 (hit the limited) and 5800. Lowered tire pressure to 22psi and was launching off of idle-1500rpms. Best thing about the day was I greatly improved my reaction times. As most of you know, the "No Parking in Staging Lanes" sign was put up because of me... But this time, I was hitting .042, .060, .137 etc... Much better. Best 60 foot was still 2.26.

I can't wait to dyno this thing and tune it some more.

Anyone ever bondo fiberglass? Bob and I took my glass hood off of the other car and leaned it up against the house and hit it with about 3 1/2 cans of Aircraft cleaner/stripper. Got most of the red off. Now most of it is gray, however it looks like some of the gel coating is coming off. Don't know if that was there and hidden by the paint or if the Aircraft stripper took it off. Anyhow, I think I'm going to take to sanding it smooth now. Anyone care to comment on which grit to start with? 80? 150?

Thanks
Regarding sanding your fiberglass hood: Don't sand through the gelcoat, because it is raw fiberglass underneath. The only time I use 80 grit is if I'm sanding down to bare metal, because it leaves a lot of scratches that can be hard to find and fill.

Just remove all the loose stuff and feather the edges out. Then start filling the low spots with bondo. For added strength, you can use the fiberglass reinforced bondo, just remember it is a lot harder than regular bondo. Just use that 150 grit. The aircraft stripper probably pulled the gelcoat off.
 

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LILXTRA said:
For all you guys needing tunes give me a yell at the shop,866-395 FAST I have most of the Autologic computer families now except for the '96-98's & the '01's.I have all the 5.0's except speed density,incl.Cobra's & have the families for the '03 Cobra's if you know anybody who has one of those,2 should be coming to the dyno w/h me that day. we shopuld have a good day as long as the 'ol Fords hold together! I'll let you guys know one way or the other tomorrow.Scott
Scott,
I've got an Autologic 4 way chip that I'd like to get the files dumped off of so I can play with them some with my Tweecer R/T. What would you charge me to dump those files so that I can read them with my Tweecer R/T? I'm unsure of the formats that the Tweecer software can read other than the native .ccf file format, and the stock Ford .bin format. I do know that it has been done in the past, as the Autologic and the Tweecer software are supposedly remarkably similar.

thanks,
Richard
 

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Anyone know what you are supposed to torque the front struts bolts to? Shock tower and control arm both. I think I'm finally going to install my Tokico 5 ways this weekend, maybe. Any helpful hints for the install would be appreciated.
 

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In other words, as tight as my scrawny arms will tighten it...

:D
 

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thanks, 5oh
 

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Michael,
Regarding insurance, here is a place you might want to check:
http://www.parishheacock.com/content/

Several members of www.scoa.org use them for their 93 Cobras. I was going to, but I got Farm Bureau to match their rates. There are some limitiations, click on the "eligibility" link to see them. Took me a while to dredge the name out of my memory banks.

Thanks for the offer on the spring compressors, but I should be alright without them. Probably not going to get to do the struts this weekend after all, I decided to pull my electric fan off and go back to the stock fan, install my 180 thermostat, and chrome radiator hoses, all in preparation for the rod run next weekend.
 

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Brian,
It's the Black Magic fan from Flex-a-lite. It's simply not big enough. Here the short version of my experience:

Was running March underdrive pulleys (polished alum. street set). Was having cooling problems. Got FMS alum radiator and helped some, but still getting hot in traffic/summertime. Got electric fan, worked better, but still getting hot. Plus, fan pulled too many amps. Put stock Cobra (underdrive) pulleys back on, fixed amp problem but was still marginal. Spring Rod Run last year, alternator pulley nut worked off and tore my alt. shaft up, had to get a shiny chrome 140A powermaster alternator. Alt. fixed amp prob, but still getting hot. Am now going to try the stock fan with the stock pulleys, since airflow at low speeds is the issue. I blame some of the problem on the eq. length shory headers, as they put off a lot of underhood heat.

Michael,
I'll be going up on Friday early, would love to see your car and meet you face to face. I'm open to suggestions on where to meet. Probably be a quick meeting, as my 3 year old and 8 month old will prob. be wanting to leave as soon as I get anywhere! :D
Probably be the only teal 93 Cobra up there with two car seats and a baby stroller in the back...
 

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Michael,
Should have made myself a little more clear, I'm going up on Friday and staying the whole weekend.

Brian,
My cooling problem only happens when the AC is on and the temp is above 80 or 90 degrees. Otherwise, it stays rock solid at around 200° when sitting still and idleing. I will definitely let you know on the fan as soon as I get it pulled, because I will be selling it. Fan size is 15", I believe.

Bob,
I'm going to give the stock fan a shot (with my stock pulleys) and see what happens. I'm a little confused, "how do you space your fan back"? You don't happen to have a link, do you? That'd be cool to hook up in Pigeon Forge as well.

Oh wait, I might have figured it out. You put the spacers between the fan itself and the clutch, sending just the blades back, is that right? I will definitely check my clearance when assembling everything, as the FMS radiator is definitely thicker than the stock unit. I was aware of the fan supposed to be out of the shroud a little bit, just had forgotten about it.
 

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Well guys,
Got my chrome rad. hoses, 180 tstat, stock shroud and fan installed over the weekend. Short list of notable events includes:

• 3 minutes into the job, slit the end of my left index finger really nice by removing the radiator cap (FMS alum radiator w/plastic tanks evidently has a sharp edge somewhere directly beneath the rad. cap). Had just removed the cap and I say to myself "what's that red fluid and where's it coming from?". Then I look at the end of my bloody finger and figure it out real quick.

• Chrome hoses were a bear to install since my non-stock radiator is about 1" thicker than stock. Had to keep shortening the hoses a little at a time until I got them close to the right length, what a PITA.

• Took one chunk out of my left thumb, don't know where it when to...

• Had the fan most of the way installed, thought "why are these dang bolts so long", then realized I forgot to install the pulley, DOH!

• Cracked myself in the cheek with my own fist when reinstalling my drive belt - cranking the tensioner up with my 18" crowbar, thinking to myself, "I think I got a pretty good grip on the pulley, if I didn't that could be bad" - THUD - it slipped out. Luckily I had the pointy curved end facing away from my face and my knuckle was the only thing that made contact with my face.

• Got to use my new Craftsman ratchet end/open end wrenches - made it VERY nice when doing the thermostat housing bolts and the fan to waterpump bolts, as a ratchet/socket combo will not fit, and the stat housing is a PITA as you all know.

In other words, just a typical Saturday spent wrenching on the car. :D

Quick question:
How far out does the stock fan stick out from the shroud on a stock setup? I'll probably end up spacing mine back so it will be in it's stock position, right now it is about 3/4 inside the shroud.


For sale: Black Magic Electric fan, less than 1000 miles, origial box and instructions included.

Wanted: Chunk out of thumb, preferably left hand. :D
 
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