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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I recently removed the engine out of the my 95 5.0L GT (automatic transmission) convertible and got it rebuilt. I also took the engine wiring harness out and covered the majority of wires. Once I feel like I have had everything buttoned up I seem to have starting problems. At first I thought I was the timing but I think it gets much deeper. Engine turns over fine but "no spark, no start". Steps taken to solve the problems are as follows:

- Checked spark plug wires for proper resistance
- Checked spark plugs for correct gap
- Verified inertia (fuel shut-off in trunk) switch is connected
- Swapped coil, same outcome
- Swapped distributor, same outcome
- Replaced and verified alignment neutral safety switch (aka. transmission range sensor, aka. manual lever position sensor, etc., because it was broken in half), same outcome.
- Auto Zone and O'Reilly checked ignition module (on passenger fender) also checked out OK but same outcome
- Verified the TDC on the compression stroke (both valves closed with valve cover off) and adjusted the timing to about 10 degrees to get engine to fire, same outcome
- Checked distributor cap and rotor and they are new
- Only re-aligned the distributor a hundred times, same outcome
- Checked voltage at the ignition coil and it is present
- Checked battery voltage and charged at near 12.5V, same outcome

Does the PATS (passive anti-theft system) allow the engine to turnover? I have searched all the timing threads with the same results. I have been cranking on this thing for about 3 weeks. Since the purchase of the vehicle, I have always had a generic key and ignition so obviously anti-theft had been disabled before. It also sit for about a year with the battery disconnected.

WANTED: The ability to avoid $100 for towing vehicle expenses to a "service department" and car to crank in my garage, soon.

Any suggestions to get it started would be greatly appreciated.
 

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im not 100% positive but i had a buddy that had a 96 cobra that had been sittin for awhile and had the anti theft on it, and after it had sat for awhile it wasnt spark that it wasnt getting it was fuel
 

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My sons 97 cobra had this problem. After 3 weeks with the help of a ford tecnician , they found a ground wire loose under the the fuse box by the battery,
They also thought it was related to the PATS system. My understanding is if it cranks over it's not in the PATS
I would suggests you go back thru your wiring harness before you take it somewhere . Look for missing grounds
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Correction. 1995 Mustang GT only has the "Anti-Theft" system option (per owner's guide). PATS was introduced in 1996. So there must be some difference (and confusing as usual).
 

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If I pull out my anti-theft module, there is no crank.
 

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Did you accidentaly swap the two wires going to the coil when you worked on your wiring harness?

Is battery voltage going too low to run the EEC when cranking? I've seen this on my car in the past.

Have you tried to see if there is spark when cranking?
 

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No OEM theft for a 95. Could be aftermarket. Look for blown fuses. Get a schematic. Look for proper voltages at the ignition module.
 

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No OEM theft for a 95. Could be aftermarket. Look for blown fuses. Get a schematic. Look for proper voltages at the ignition module.
Huh? I've got a RKE module and an Anti-theft module. The wiring diagrams (and I) would beg to differ with your assessment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
OK. problem is finally solved. I have spark now and vehicle cranks. The driver side HEGO (Oxygen) sensor connector was switched with the distributor connector. So in essence, it was the PIP sensor, Hall-Effect sensor, stator or whatever. I thought these things were dummy proof. Guess not:( Thanks everyone for our suggestions.
 

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OK. problem is finally solved. I have spark now and vehicle cranks. The driver side HEGO (Oxygen) sensor connector was switched with the distributor connector. So in essence, it was the PIP sensor, Hall-Effect sensor, stator or whatever. I thought these things were dummy proof. Guess not:( Thanks everyone for our suggestions.
Well, that's one that I never would have imagined. I can't imagine how you got front of engine and back mixed up there? At least it's behind you now.
 

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No spark in wisconsin.

OK. problem is finally solved. I have spark now and vehicle cranks. The driver side HEGO (Oxygen) sensor connector was switched with the distributor connector. So in essence, it was the PIP sensor, Hall-Effect sensor, stator or whatever. I thought these things were dummy proof. Guess not:( Thanks everyone for our suggestions.
Hi,I read your post about having spark problems in your 95 mustang. I have the same problem ,except mine occurred right after a full tune up.EI: plugs,wires,cap,rotor,coil etc. etc. I have been beating my head against the wall for 3 weeks now. I have identified that I do have an open short somewhere between the battery and obviously the short. So,to keep it short. Do you have any ideas for me where to look now?? Like I said,the car ran perfect for about 1 minute , then all of a sudden, No-spark at all. P.S. The ignition was busted out and the car has to be started with a screw driver.I'm planning on installing a separate starter switch with a power panel as this is to be used as a drag car when finished. But I have to fix the "no-spark" issue first and foremost. [email protected] Thanks for any help you may render.
 

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How have you determined it's the spark that's failing and not a fuel issue?
 
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