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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
is anyone using the aluminum flywheel for drag racing? i was looking for before and after results. how would the street manners be? its mainly a street car but i race it 1-2 month. my best pass was [email protected] with a 2.0 60ft. i was thinking about getting an aluminum FW.
 

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I was wondering the same thing a few weeks ago. After talking to some people I decided to ordered the Spec stage III clutch with matching aluminum flywheel. I will install them when I rebuild my engine in about 6 weeks. I was told that the car will have to be launched at a little higher rpm since there will be less inertia. The tires will not get shocked as much when launching. Someone did tell me that a lighter flywheel may not be a good idea with a blower. They said that the less inertia it is harder to spin the blower. I do not know. I do know that my engine builder and most other people I spoke to said it is worth it to go with the aluminum flywheel. I will see.

Jerome
 

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Discussion Starter #3
how much did the flywheel cost you? im about to order one up. its raining and im bored.
 

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$320 for the clutch and $350 for the flywheel.

I am bored too and it is 85 degrees and sunny
:cool:

Jerome
 

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Well, it just so happens I just replaced my clutch with a SPEC stage III w/ aluminum fly wheel, when I dropped in a SHM longblock. I've got about 1000 miles on it now, so have'nt been to the track yet. I've got a ProChatged 97 Cobra (10#). I do ALOT of 1st-2nd gear street driving. I think next time I'll go with a steel FW. It sounds cool when it revs soooo fast. But, stop-N-go, too easy reving, super tight clutch, makes for tiresome driving. When I first drove it w/brand new clutch, it was really hard to drive, getting clutch broke in. Its still tricky. Wife will never be able to drive the car:D I really wanted the AL FW, IMO, steel is way more easier for street driving. If it was a dedicated autocross car, sure, AL is the way to go, but daily driving, STEEL. Hope this helps someone.
Tom
 

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The only thing I notice that the engine revs quicker but as I just notice tonight they fall off quicker also. I almost missed a shift and the rpms seem liked they fell off pretty quick.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks for the info guys, all we need now is someone to test it at the track. keep me posted.
 

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with a AL the RPMS fall quicker????????? that doesnt seem right. AL weight less so it usually doenst slow down as fast. Or am I smoking crack and dont have a clue what Im talking about.:(
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i think it would slow down quicker beacuse there is less inerita to keep it going.
 

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superGT99 said:
i think it would slow down quicker beacuse there is less inerita to keep it going.
hmmmmmm but the lighter fly wheel needs less "ineritia" to make it spin faster which allows high rotation speeds which will produce kenitic energy. (bare with me im trying to explain this by typing). that energy or speed that its rotating at, wouldnt it allow it to spin longer than the heavier "FW" because the heavier FW needs more to keep it spinning. dang it, this is freaking hard to explain. please someone that knows what I am trying to say tell it better. or someone tell me I am smoking dope and have no clue what Im talking about. I would think with lighter fly wheel, your RPM's will drop slower because it will spin longer for tw reasons. 1 its spinning faster, 2 it will take the speed and continue longer.
 

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no, an aluminum flywheel will rev down quicker. think of it this way:

take a beach ball and a medicine ball and throw them. the beach ball will be easier to throw (rev up) but also easier to catch (rev down). once you get that medicine ball going, it's a mother to stop.

gino
 

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I just installed one a couple of weeks ago. My butt-o-meter didn't notice any difference in the way the car drives, accelerates, decelerates, whatever. I race on DR's, so I'm hoping it will lessen the shock just a bit (and help save input shafts, too).
 

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I put in a Fidanza aluminum flywheel, along with a Spec Stage II a few weeks ago. I do noticed the revs climb and fall quicker, and I picked up about 1 MPH at the track. I haven't yet been able to get the same 60' times I was running earlier in the year 1.7-1.8, yet, but I think it's due to the new clutch not slipping like my old one, which was helping me launch. The only issue I have during street driving is during stop-and-go 1st gear creeping when it requires some attention to drive smoothly.
 

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superGT99 said:
so has anyone tested an aluminum flywheel yet? how did it come out?
Yup. I got a fidanza installed last year. The aluminum strikes the drag radials lighter than the steel did. I'm able to sixty foot in the 1.7-1.8 range with 90/10 struts up front and 4.10's out back on 275/50/15 BFG's. The drag radials don't bust loose on launches like they did with the steel flywheel.

Went from a 13.45 pre-gears and pre-flywheel to 13.0's.

Works for me.
 

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Doesn't the '03 cobra has an aluminum flywheel. It'd be interesting so see how they did that without hurting the driveability of the car if you guys are saying stop and go is a pain.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
this is a interesting subject so far. we really have heard much about using an alumium flywheel in drag racing. i may try one anyway and find out.
 

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This the best way to explain the differance and how inertia works Steel vs. Aluminum FW.

Take a 20 lbs. weight and tie six feet of rope to the weight and spin it a circle over your head and feel the stored energy , this will immulate the stored energy of a Steel FW.

Take the same 20 lbs. weight and use two feet of rope to spin the same twenty pound weight and this will immulate the stored energy of a Aluminum FW.


This is how inertia works, what will work for your Stang that will depend on what you like, Ive had both in my N/A 98 Cobra and liked the billet steel FW head and shoulders above the Stock nodular iron and a Aluminum flywheel..DA Snake Boy!!
 
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