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I JUST BOUGHT A 1990 5.0 5SPD LX COUPE AND THE CAR HAS NO AC. I FOUND THE EXACT CAR IN A LOCAL JUNKYARD WITH AC AND I WAS PLANNING TO INSTALL THE AC IN MY CAR. I WAS WONDERING IF ANYONE HAS DONE THIS AND IF YOU HAVE ANY TIPS FOR ME.
I PREVIOUSLY OWNED AN 86 GT THAT WENT 12.66 1/4
AND A 1991 LX THAT RAN 13.00 W/O NOS 12.00 W/NOS BUT I HAVE NOT HAD A MUSTANG IN 7 YEARS AND I AM EXCITED TO GET BACK INTO IT AND I HAVE ALOT OF QUESTIONS FOR YOU GUYS AND I SEE ALOT HAS CHANGED IN 7 YEARS.

WHAT IS THE BEST SPARK PLUG TO RUN NOW? ASF32C?

WHAT SIZE MAF SHOULD I GET?, I PLAN ON A CAM AND MAYBE GT40 HEADS, NO SUPERCHARGER AND NO JUICE

1990 LX-5SPD
EDELBROCK INTAKE
FULL MAC EXHAUST-HEADERS ON BACK
3.73'S
BATTLE BOXES
SUBFRAME CONNECTORS
STRUT TOWER BRACE
ALUMINUM DRIVESHAFT
WORLD CLASS TRANS
KING COBRA CLUTCH
PAID 2500$

I THINK THE STOCK THROTTLE BODY AND MAF ARE KILLING THIS CAR
 

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First, turn off caps lock! It makes people think you are yelling and most will just ignore it.

If you can get all the parts for the A/C you should be able to get it working. Just pray that the compressor isn't seized. You will most definitely need a new accumulator unless the system on the current car is still completely closed off to the outside. Get all the parts off that car, including the evaporator from underneath the dash. It will take you qiute some time to get everything out, so don't rush. Once out you'll need another $200 or so to charge it with R-12 or you can convert it over to the new R-134a, which won't work quite as well but will be cheaper, especially if the system starts to leak and you lose refrigerant. I've never done this or heard of it done, so I can't guarantee you it'll work but I'm pretty sure that it should.
 

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Once you get everything installed and check the system for leaks, Ford has a conversion kit from R12 to 134a. My girlfriend is a service writer for a Lincoln-Mercury/Nissan dealer and I got the kit for $17 (her cost) little more for retail. The kit contains 4 replacement fitting (Only need 2 and determined by which system) and a bottle of oil. Then, all you need is 3-4 cans of 134a. I did the conversion about a year ago and it works very well.

Kelly
89 vert
 

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you can purchase the fittings for the conversion at your local parts store for about 12 bucks. I just bought a set about 2 hours ago at O'Reilly's. I am converting my 90 from R12 to R134a. I have spoken with some guys in the AC business and they assured me the conversion works fine.

Good Luck!
 

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yes teh conversion works BUT makes sure you get the sytem completely evacuated before adding the r134a. r-12 and 134a dont mix!

take care,
adam
 

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Here is a link to a post about upgrading the system. I list the complete way on how I do my conversions and if you follow them you " SHOULD " have great a/c. Just to show how my method works so well, I converted my dads 79 Buick Century II wagon to 134a. The vent temps going down the highway were 40 and the compressor was shutting off, meaning the low side was getting to low (car only has a low side cut off switch), which is caused by the evap core trying to FREEZE. This means the evap core has to atleast be around 32 and below. And if thats not good enough, it was 95 outside while i was testing it, and the vent temps at idle were 54. My way of doing things might take longer, but for what I am able to achieve, its well worth the work.

http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=293293
 

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A/C Question

First, turn off caps lock! It makes people think you are yelling and most will just ignore it.

If you can get all the parts for the A/C you should be able to get it working. Just pray that the compressor isn't seized. You will most definitely need a new accumulator unless the system on the current car is still completely closed off to the outside. Get all the parts off that car, including the evaporator from underneath the dash. It will take you qiute some time to get everything out, so don't rush. Once out you'll need another $200 or so to charge it with R-12 or you can convert it over to the new R-134a, which won't work quite as well but will be cheaper, especially if the system starts to leak and you lose refrigerant. I've never done this or heard of it done, so I can't guarantee you it'll work but I'm pretty sure that it should.
I would like to know which valve is the low pressure valve on a 1990 GT A/C. I have always heard it was the larger fitting and it is that way all my other cars. However, the larger valve on my 1990 GT is on the commpressor and that seems strange to me. Is this the valve for putting in the R-12? I have heard that their are retrofit valves that go on the smaller valve for inserting the R-12. Help me out, please...
 

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The valve on the larger hose (larger hose = larger volume = low pressure) is your low pressure one.
 

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Thanks Deividas93GT.
I figured the low pressure valve must be the one on the compressor as that line leads to the accumulator. I have the Ford factory manual, but it is not to specific on the valves and the diagram figure is rather vague. I probably should add a can of oil as well.
 

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can you get the evaporator out without having to pull the whole dash out
 

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I always believe in doing a job right and if you want to do it right, its gonna take a little more than a couple of $10 fittings. For one thing, R12 refridgerant oil (mineral) is not compatible with R134a. Will it work for a while? Probably, but for how long and what will your compressor innards look like when it stops working?

Here is where you need to go to get all the automotive air conditioning knowledge you could want: http://autoacforum.com/
You can also check out my long thread from when I converted my Mustang to R134a earlier in the summer: http://autoacforum.com/messageview.cfm?catid=2&threadid=15009&FTVAR_MSGDBTABLE=

Check it out. Ask questions on the forum and get lots of professional a/c tech answers. Those guys are great!

BTW, you can ask me questions and I'd be glad to help with my experience successfully converting over my system!

Danny
 

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I finished the A/C and it came out fine. I ended up with a temp of 40 degrees at the vents. I also repalced all the radiator and heater hoses with the Blue silicon from Ford Racing. The Low Coolant light finally went out. All seems fine.
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1990 GT hatch. All stock. All original. Bought new and only 3,840 mile on it. Leather Seats.
Sweet 16 and a Garage Queen.
 
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