Ford Mustang Forums banner

1 - 20 of 50 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,015 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm gonna attempt for the first time ever to adjust a set of rr's. They are fms 1.6 stud mt. 86Cobra gave me an easy way to do it. I'm just gonna rotate the engine till the rotor is pointing to the #1 point on the cap and adjust the #1 cyl, then rotate it till it points to the #3 cyl on the cap and keep going in the firing order. I'm gonna go 1/2 turn. My rr's are set 1 full turn after 0 lash and everyone says that this is too tight.

Will I need new valve cover gaskets? They are new when the heads/cam were put on in Sept. They have some yellow glueish stuff on them to hold em in place I guess. Should I buy new ones? I have a new intake gasket if I need it. I dont need any special tools, right?

What could I expect to gain by loosening them? What sixe socket is needed to rotate the crank?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
311 Posts
I think the crank nut is 15/16, but don't quote me. Stud mounts are supposed to be easier than pedestals, so it shouldn't be tough. I think 1/2 turn will gain you a few extra HP over 1. I do my pedestals by starting at cyl #1 at TDC on the compression stroke. I then turn the crank in 1/4 turn increments, and go to the next cyl in the firing order each time, and do both valves. After #8, another 1/4 and you're back to where you started. I've had no problem doing it this way, but no one else seems to do it like this. If your valve cover gaskets look OK, try reusing them, no big deal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
I went 1/2 turn and mine are noisy as heck. I just can't adjust valves I guess. I've tried 4 times now. good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
746 Posts
I go a 1/2 turn, snug the allen lock bolt, then go another 1/8 turn or so to make sure the poly lock won't back off. My rockers are slightly noisy, but if I go to 3/4 turn then I end up with a ****ty running motor. 3/4 of a turn on my setup ends up hanging the valves open slightly resulting in a crappy running motor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,015 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Do u guys know off hand what size socket the crank and alt use?

Do you guys have any idea wha I could gain w/ looser rockers?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
368 Posts
I think the crank is 24mm not sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
24mm that's what I use
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,015 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I'm gonna go to sears and look to buy a nice tool kit w/ a variety of sockets. I think i'm pretty set on setting the rockers. I got 2 easy methods on a post I made on stangnet.com. One quick ?, when finding 0 lash, all I have to do is twist the pushrod w/ my finger and when my fingers cant turn it anymore thats 0 lash and then I go 1/2 more turn and lock the nut, then if I want I can try to turn the nut more after its locked to snug it more?

What do you guys really think I can gain by loosening them?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,056 Posts
No, zero lash is when you first feel resistance on the rod from rocker..it'll still move but not as freely as before. It should also not move up and down which obvious but figured I'ld add. Dont worry try it a few times and you'll get the feel of it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,015 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I just picked up a nice set of craftsmen mechanic tools, a 144 piece set! I plan on starting this tonight. How do I verify that i'm at tdc for the #1 cyl? Both valves should be closed, right? I could also stick my finger in the plug hole and when I feel my finger being pushed out thats tdc also? Would it be 0 on the balancer too?

So when i'm turning the pushrod as soon as I feel a hint of resistance, that is 0 lash and I then go 1/2 more turn?

If I use new valve cover gaskets, do I use any silicone on them?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,035 Posts
when the intake starts to close, adjust the exhaust

when the exhaust starts to open, adjust the intake.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,015 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
ReefBlueCoupe said:
when the intake starts to close, adjust the exhaust

when the exhaust starts to open, adjust the intake.
I have a much easier/quicker way I got on a post on stangnet.com:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
311 Posts
When the balancer is at zero, and your rotor is pointing to the #1 plug, your in business. You'll also feel the pressure from the plug hole too. Correct about zero lash, just a hint of resistance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,015 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
When the balancer is at zero, and your rotor is pointing to the #1 plug, your in business.
You mean it'll be pointing to the #1 point on the cap, right?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,035 Posts
yes, that is what he means.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
311 Posts
It's actually the same thing. You'll see, if you're not on the compression stroke, the rotor will be pointing to the opposite side of #1.
 
1 - 20 of 50 Posts
Top