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Discussion Starter #1
Ok I am really asking this questions. Is this how I do it?

Turn motor over until a set of rockers are in the down position. Then slowly tighten down the rocker until there is no more up and down play on the rocker, Then after that give it 1/2 more turn. Then tighten down the lock with the allen key.
Now is that correct?
 

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adjust the exhaust when the intake first starts to close

adjust the intake when the exhaust first starts to open


i give it a 1/2 turn, lock the allen, then turn both the allen and the adjuster so they are snug
 

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Make sure the pushrod is on the lowest point of the camshaft lobe. Not sure if it matters intake or exhaust stroke. Ask around on that one to be sure. Once at the lowest point, bolt to spec with adjusting screw loose, then you turn screw till it seats, and go 1/4 to 1/2 and lock it down. It takes some playing with a few times to get familiar with them.

What kind did you get?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I got TFS 1.6 rockers, I already had them done, But wanna double check on them to make sure. From what I said up above does that sound right??
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ttt
 

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fastfed1 said:
I got TFS 1.6 rockers, I already had them done, But wanna double check on them to make sure. From what I said up above does that sound right??
No. Read what sn95mustang347 said. This is correct assuming you have adjustable rockers and a hyd camshaft. It is not likely that you will find the spot to adjust both valves on a cylinder at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
DAMN IT!!! I just don't get it!
 

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fastfed1 said:
DAMN IT!!! I just don't get it!
There are a couple posts on this within the last week, but here is the condensed version. You want the lifter sitting on the base circle of the cam. This means NOT on any part of the lobe. You cannot tell by only watching for the valve to close when the lifter is competely off the lobe because it is a gradual thing.

So - remember this is a 4-stroke engine. Intake, compression, power, exhaust, repeat ... The intake opens during the end of the exhaust stroke and closes during the beginning of the compression stroke. The exhaust valve opens on the end of the power stroke and closes during the beginning of the intake stroke. When the intake valve is starting to close, you know the exhaust valve is closed. When the exhaust valve is starting to open, you know the intake is closed. Draw a circle on paper and map out the valve opening and closing with the four strokes and you'll see it more clearly.

If you watch for both valves to be closed at the same time this would be during the latter part of compression stroke and the beginning of the power stroke. It could be done this way, you may have gotten a little lucky, but you really should follow the "Hanes manual" way of turning the engine and watching the balancer and timing pointer and adjusting specific valves in sequence.

I prefer the first method because it is simple.

Intake starts to close = adjust exhaust valve on that cyl
Exhaust starts to open = adjust intake valve on that cyl

Good luck!
 

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djusting Hydraulic Roller Rockers

1. Remove the valve covers, and pick a cylinder you are going to set the preload on.

2. Hand rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder's intake rocker arm.

3. Back off the intake rocker arm adjuster and remove any tension from the pushrod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the pushrod seat up against the retaining lock if you give it time to do so.

4. Now spin the intake pushrod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. When you feel a slight resistance to the turning of the pushrod, you are at "Zero Lash". Turn the adjusting nut down one half to one full turn from that point. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly.

5. Continue to hand turn the engine, watching that same intake. It will go to full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. Loosen the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same procedure described before in steps 3 and 4 to adjust this rocker arm.

6. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again.
 

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BAH!

I just installed some rockers, then went on to run a [email protected] street tires, so i'm pretty sure I did em right :)

MY WAY IS THE EASY WAY!

pick a cylinder
rotate the motor by hand until both valves are clossed (on the cam lobe base)
hand tighten the weenie little bolt
take your torque wrench and set it to 18ft/lbs
turn the intake and the the exhaust rocker bolts [slowly] until the wrench clicks*

*if it takes more then 1 full turn of the wrench to reach desired torque then you need to shim that rocker*

repeat on next cylinder.

nice n easy :)
 

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i think what Blk91gt said is a good method. It seems to follow what Crane also recomends.

anyone else agree???

Thanx,
LOBE
~~~~
 

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LOBE_50 said:
i think what Blk91gt said is a good method. It seems to follow what Crane also recomends.

anyone else agree???

Thanx,
LOBE
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Nick explained "how to" very well. Now read my post and convince me that when you have both valves closed you are sure that you are off the ramps on both valves. I'm not being a smart ass, it is in theory possible to do it just as well your way, but I'd rather take the extra 15 minutes and be sure I did it right.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
GOD DAMN IT!!! If there was only a video on how to do it.. You guys are making it very confusing. First there is a good way and now there is not. HELLO!! I need to do this tommorow.. :)
thanks
 

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You had it correct from your first post. As long as you've adjusted them on the low part of the lobe you've done it correct. It's definitely not rocket science.
 

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The easiest approach I've found is using Ford's method...

Bring the number one cylinder up to TDC, as indicated (hopefully!) by the 'zero' mark on the balancer. [Roll the pushrod between your fingers while tightening the nut, and stop when you feel the slightest drag on the PR. Give the nut another half tuen and lock it down.] At TDC, adjust these valves:

adjust at TDC:
Intake: 1, 4, 8
Exhaust: 1, 3, 7

Rotate the crank 360 degrees lockwise, and adjust:
Intake: 3, 7
Exhaust: 2, 6

Rotate the crank 90 degrees clockwise, and adjust:
Intake: 2, 5, 6
Exhaust: 4, 5, 8

Works like a champ every time!

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Chris or anyone else Do any of you guys have aol instant messanger? Please someone say yes.
 

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DO IT THE WAY NICK POSTED!!!!!


Any other way is guessing where the base circle is. Remember, the bigger the cam, the more critical it is to get to the base circle versus a ramp.

Ed
 

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I have a slight tick on mine...
What if you adjust them for 1/2 turn (still ticks), re-adjust for 3/4 turn (still ticks).
Is it worth trying 1/4 turn???
[I really hate pulling the intake and valve covers every other night]

This is on my 7th engine build, but just cannot get the valves to quiet down!!!
:mad:
 

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Generally tighter = less tick due to closing up the gap. I believe it would be a waste of time to shim to get 1/4 turn. May not be the lifter, but the rocker, or the rocker hitting the valve cover, etc
 

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rocker arms adjustment

I know this is after the fact and a lot good stuff has been said, but Mustang 5.0 magazine September 2000 issue, check out around page 28, pretty much what has been said here, but they show you pictures. LOL Anyhow, I had pretty much the same problems.

www.westsidemustang.com
 
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