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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
im looking to get an aluminum driveshaft and on american muscle it says that it will fit from the years79-95 5.0L and i know the foxbodys are shorter than the sn95 so i was wondering will i need a driveshaft spacer for this to work in my 95 gt with a stock t-5?
 

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Actually the SN95 tranny is 5/8" further back so it would be shorter, not the Fox.

It fits fine. I bought mine back in '97 and still run it. When I did my TKO swap in '05 I used a spacer because the transmission is 5/8" shorter
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Wow thanks guys for all of ur responses I wanted to make sure it was just Gunna be a simple job n not take out my steel one to have my aluminum not fit. Thanks fellas

N my mistake about the comparison about the fox to the sn
 

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Actually the SN95 tranny is 5/8" further back so it would be shorter, not the Fox.
Wrong, the distance from the end of the tailshaft, to the pinion flange is unchanged from 93-94 However, the distance from the front of the transmission case, to the rear of the block is where the change was made.

The engine itself sits further forward in the SN-95. Just another reason why the accessories were changed out for a more compact design.
 

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Wrong, the distance from the end of the tailshaft, to the pinion flange is unchanged from 93-94 However, the distance from the front of the transmission case, to the rear of the block is where the change was made.

The engine itself sits further forward in the SN-95. Just another reason why the accessories were changed out for a more compact design.
Yes, I worded it wrong. The input shaft as well as the bellhousing is 5/8" longer on the sn95, thus when you install a fox tranny and bell you need the spacer because the whole tranny is sitting 5/8" more forward.

When you get old like me and did these things many years ago sometimes the actual details get lost in the back of my head unless I really think about it :rofl:

But thanks for clearing that up....either way his question was answered :rolleyes:
 

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make sure you get the skinny aluminum drive shaft if your car is lowered . the large diameter rubs the e brake bracket if your car is lowered
 

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make sure you get the skinny aluminum drive shaft if your car is lowered . the large diameter rubs the e brake bracket if your car is lowered
Usually only if the e brake bracket is coming loose from the spot weld and hanging down will this be a problem. Simple fix with a rivet or bolt though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I didntknow there are thick and skinny driveshafts. If u can find me a link I'd appreciate it since I do have bbk lowering springs but if u can't that's fine I'll just bend the e brake bracket out of the way if it's possible. Thanks
 

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Worn out control arm bushings made mine rub. Replaced OEMs with Steeda pieces and it cleared right up. That was like 13 years ago...

Do the FMS driveshafts use a standard replacement u-joint?
 

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make sure you get the skinny aluminum drive shaft if your car is lowered . the large diameter rubs the e brake bracket if your car is lowered
I am on H&R Super race springs and the standard FRPP driveshaft from american muscle works fine for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
with my 4.10s i have a vibration at high speeds especially through the shifter. i have 4 new tires mounted and balanced and i just purchased energy suspension motor mounts and tranny mount for one hell of a deal. i did the motor mounts already but havent done the tranny mount. do you think the aluminum driveshaft and tranny mount will help with this? thanks guys for all of your replys
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
no i did not adjust my pinion angle. i always heard of people doing that but i am clueless on how to do it so if you could fill me in thatd be cool.
 

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It's more likely that the u-joints are shot. Buddy of mine had a severe vibration, when we popped the caps off of his old u-joints, there was nothing in there but rust dust and dirt.

Next guess would be a loose driveshaft following gear install. Another buddy had a vibration that kept getting worse after a clutch change. Turns out the shop didn't tighten the pinion flange must past hand tight. Another reason why I do all my own wrenching.

Pinion angle isn't really adjustable with factory suspension bits. Get the new driveshaft on there and then address the vibration issue, if it persists.
 
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