[calinic]

Hey everyone. I've finally gotten around to doing an Explorer intake swap on my 95 GT and have a few questions. I know I need to get an elbow adapter(I plan on picking one up off an Explorer from the junkyard along with throttle body) but I need to know the size of the studs that connect the elbow to the manifold. Unfortunately mine didn't come with any:

Lastly I have a question about the vacuum lines on the explorer intake. There seems to be a few more ports, which do I use and which should I plug? I'll leave a pic of my stock setup and the explorer. Thank you for any help!

 

[Wmac]

I just put my ported upper on 2 weeks ago. Using a trickflow adapter that required 5/16-18 unc studs adapter to T/B. I used short bolts adapter to upper. Also 5/16 -18 unc either 3/4 or 1" o/l

 

[HYBRED]

FYI the explorer elbow won’t work for you as it’s a 90° and you need more of a 45°.

As for the vacuum ports, you have a picture of what you need right there. Just make it the same on the Exploder upper.

 

[Wmac]

Good point hybred. The extra vac port tubes can be easily removed. Little heat from a propane torch, twist with vice grips and out they come. You will need 1/8, 1/4 and maybe 3/8 npt taps. They should be in your tool box anyways. Alunimum is very easy to drill and tap. Always a good idea to have an assortment of pipe caps or plugs. Readily available for places like summit. Bam now you have a very clean install, without those g/d capped tubes that look like sh!t.

 

[heavyd5]

Yep, on all the ones I port, I yank those tubes out and tap for pipe thread. A few you don't even need to drill, the hole is the right size for a 1/8" pipe tap. Just cleans everything up, less crap to get caught on, Makes for a clean install.

 

[calinic]

Thank you guys for the info. I had been looking around trying to figure out if the explorer elbow would work for me but I guess it won't. Any other option than the Eldelbrock one? Only reason is I can't find it much less than $130 but if it's what I need I guess it'll do. I'll match up the vacuum ports and plug the rest thanks for the plug sizes.

 

[calinic]

I've run into an issue though with a broken bolt on the heads. It looks like a combination of coolant and rust, I'll leave a picture. Any ideas on getting this sucker out, is it time for new heads?
🤔

 

[Wmac]

I mention above what I used. less that the Eddy and true 75mm.

That bolt location has caused grief to many. (including myself). Lots of PB blaster, left hand drill bits and don't cheap out on extractors. If your gun shy, take it to a machine shop.

 

[HYBRED]

You are lucky if you only broke 1.

Buy a couple new drill bits, 1/8” or so to start the hole, a torch, some extractors...

Worst case is you have to pull the head and visit a machine shop. (About $40)

 

[calinic]

Yah I'm surprised only 1 broke lol, but I'm gonna go at it tomorrow with the drill and extractor. On a side note though a pair of gt40p heads just popped up for $200, at that price do you think it would be worth my while to pick up? Thanks guys

 

[Flade]

I’ve got one or two of the Edelbrock elbows in very like new condition, I bought it for my 94 but then found a Cobra intake so I didn‘t end up using it.

 

[Wmac]

Touch it up with a grinder so you have a flat spot for the centre punch. Centre is critical. Use small bits at slow speed with lots of cutting fluid , use increasingly larger drill bits until you have barely a shell left. Then some heat from a propane torch, the largest extractor possible and work slowly back and forth. If you break a drill bit or extractor off your fudged and its off to the machine shop. Key to drilling is slow and very light pressure and lots of cutting oil.

Good luck , you will need it.

 

[calinic]

Thanks fore the advice Wmac, about to go attempt this. Fingers crossed lol.

 

[calinic]

I’ve got one or two of the Edelbrock elbows in very like new condition, I bought it for my 94 but then found a Cobra intake so I didn‘t end up using it.

Hey Flade would you be interested in selling one?

 

[heavyd5]

Good luck on the broken bolt. I would definitely get those P heads. Maybe offer less and see. Swap out the valve springs cheack for flatness and clean up the head surface and go. The factory E7 heads are junk compared to any GT40 variety. Or uh....I’ve got a set for sale with upgraded springs ready to go. Exhaust crossover is even blocked. Comes with gaskets.

 

[Wmac]

Calinic. If you haven't attempted the removal yet, note this well.

Drill slowly, you want a sharp drill bit to do its cutting. (use slow speed on your drill) If the drill bit starts to flex, stop immediately. You are about to break it and then its likely off to the machine shop and you can expect to pay even more money as now they have to deal with the broken bit.

Put small drill bits as far as possible into the chuck, this helps to reduce the flex. Drill a little, pull bit out a little. driill a little deeper etc. LET THE DRILL BIT CUT. If it won't, try another bit same size. I have had good luck with the long extractors with the 3 or 4 sharp sides to bite into the shell. Some heat may well help. You do not need to put much pressure on the drill. The bit needs to do its job.

I got burned maybe 15 years ago with that same bolt. Something about the coolant, galvanic corrosion, time, whatever. You are on very thin ice. I broke one of the short Lisle extractor. I didn't drill far enough, didn't use progressively larger bits, didn't take my time and had to remove the head and spend some $. You would need a head gasket, new bolts as they are torque to yield, on and on.

With the above method I have removed several (10, 15 whatever) broken exhaust manifold flange studs Worked every time. Those studs get nasty from all the heat.

Good luck, tell us all the outcome.

 

[Flade]

Hey Flade would you be interested in selling one?

Absolutely, send me a PM