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Discussion Starter #1
Saw a thread over in the drag racing section about e7 heads. Those guys are running some good times on minimum parts. I have a few ideas and was looking for feedback if you dont mind.

Goal is 12s NA that can daily drive with ease.

What I was thinking.

95 GT 5.0 AODE car
-GT40 Upper
-GT40 TMOSS Lower
-Stock cam retard 4 degrees
-70mm TB
-Stock Air Box w/K and N
-Smog/Egr Delete
-Crank and WP UD pulley
-Revised/Updated/Jmod VB
-3.73 gear
-RCI Mid length Headers, Cats and Xpipe
-3000 Torque Converter

Suspension:
-Tube K with coilover
-Rear Baseline street setup with teamz springs and strange 10 ways.
-26" tire


Couple of questions.

1. Setup thoughts?

2. What MAF for stock Air Box?

3. Capable of 12s N/A with supported suspension and Tire?

4. Tuning Recommend?

5. 1.7 Roller Rockers worth anything with e7 heads?

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Been chasing times at the track last couple years, so maybe can offer some advice.

Your list of mods is really sound, but reaching into the 12's will be difficult. Heads will need a lot of porting, lots of weight reduction everywhere, a damn good set of rear tires. If the upper intake is an explorer, port the he!! out of it. Cobra rockers add about 030 lift, so will add a little rpm. Have you considered 410 gears?

You will need a good tune.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Been chasing times at the track last couple years, so maybe can offer some advice.

Your list of mods is really sound, but reaching into the 12's will be difficult. Heads will need a lot of porting, lots of weight reduction everywhere, a damn good set of rear tires. If the upper intake is an explorer, port the he!! out of it. Cobra rockers add about 030 lift, so will add a little rpm. Have you considered 410 gears?

You will need a good tune.
4.10s are not out of the question. I'm still researching the tuning side, whether I want to do a QH or SCT tune.

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Setting up your suspension will be huge. Get adjustable upper control arms and get your instant center of gravity adjusted for better traction - you will attain your goal in large part by optimizing your 60 foot.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Setting up your suspension will be huge. Get adjustable upper control arms and get your instant center of gravity adjusted for better traction - you will attain your goal in large part by optimizing your 60 foot.
Thanks Tom, you have been a great help with this build. I talked with Baseline and will be going with their single adjustable relocated upper and single adjustable lowers. Stock springs with 50/50s.

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I had a fresh 306 with E7’s a .512, 281 duration came, Moss ported lower ho make 223 a to the wheels. A 70mm TB is kind of large I think for E7’s. I don’t think you’ll really see any gain with it. I also don’t think the E7’s would warrant a ported GT40. There’s just not enough air moving through the e7’s to need a ported gt40. The power will probably start to fall off around 5,800 rpm if even that high. A ported HO lower can support those rpm levels. So I don’t think you’ll benefit from an intake that makes power higher than that like a ported gt40 would. People are putting ported gt40’s on 170cc heads. The E7’s flow no where near as much as they do.
FWIW prior to having the lower ported it made 205 at the wheels.
Going from 14’s and 15’s to 12’s going to be tough with the amount of power you’ll be making. I think gonna have to launch the sht out of it to rip off a 13.
 

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I don't know anything about racing an auto, but I assume you would want more stall and more gear. Weight reduction will help a lot. I launch mine at 4500+
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Updated my build. Decided to toss the E7s for some gt40p heads I had machined. Basically a stock cam build now.

So new setup for the time being.
Gt40p heads
Explorer upper/lower
Stock SN95 TB/MAF/Airbox w/KN
Explorer 4 hole 19# injectors
Walboro 190lph fuel pump
Stock cam degreed somewhere(measure first)
1.7 Cobra RR
UD pullies
Shorty Headers
Catted H or X
3.73 or 3.9 gear
4R70W swap
Mach 1 TC
Tuned with QH and LC1 Wideband


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Updated my build. Decided to toss the E7s for some gt40p heads I had machined. Basically a stock cam build now.

So new setup for the time being.
Gt40p heads
Explorer upper/lower
Stock SN95 TB/MAF/Airbox w/KN
Explorer 4 hole 19# injectors
Walboro 190lph fuel pump
Stock cam degreed somewhere(measure first)
1.7 Cobra RR
UD pullies
Shorty Headers
Catted H or X
3.73 or 3.9 gear
4R70W swap
Mach 1 TC
Tuned with QH and LC1 Wideband


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The aode gearset will really hold you back on 60' times. That's why most users go 410 or even 430.

The stock cam with small port heads will run out of breath around 5300 to 5500 rpm. That holds back on the top end charge, porting and larger valves may be required to reach your goals.

For weight reduction, the interior will need to be gutted (including sound deadener) and everything in the truck removed. Driveshaft loop and possibly torque box plates are going to add weight.

Will be very interested in your progress so please keep us advised. What 26" tire are in your plans?

Do you have any baseline times yet?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Going with a 4r70w to take care of the gear ratio issues. l'll try a 3.73 or the 3.9 gear to start.

I'd like to run a 26x8.5 slick on 15 rim.

Torque converter will be changed out in the future to a higher stall than the mach 1 unit when I can afford the right one.

No times as tracks were closed when I bought the car.

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Well that should yield the 60' times needed. Very good choices.
 

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Why the stock cam? I think to take advantage of the gt40 heads going to need to “rev the sht” out of them. Not sky high, but you’ll at least want to be making power at 6k. With the stock cam you basically have a 230-250 some odd horsepower truck motor.
I also don’t think weight reduction is going to be quite enough. I saw a guy with a gutted ‘97 that had a Pi and camp swap running 9 second 1/8 miles. If I remember right he said it was making 270-280 rear horse range. You won’t be making that much with your GT40’s. His was a 5 speed. Stock suspension (I bet) and crappy street tires though. The dashboard and drivers seat was all that was left of the interior. Remember ‘94 cobra’s were only running 14 second 1/4 miles. That’s a lot of weight to loose to subtract two seconds. It can be done and I’m sure that it has been done, but probably won’t be a cake walk. With “low lower” and beefy suspension you’re going to have to launch high and drive it to the point of near breakage. It took an additional 127 horsepower from my “baseline” to knock of 2 seconds or so from the 1/8 mile. Mine is setup more as a street car vs race car though.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Why the stock cam? I think to take advantage of the gt40 heads going to need to “rev the sht” out of them. Not sky high, but you’ll at least want to be making power at 6k. With the stock cam you basically have a 230-250 some odd horsepower truck motor.
I also don’t think weight reduction is going to be quite enough. I saw a guy with a gutted ‘97 that had a Pi and camp swap running 9 second 1/8 miles. If I remember right he said it was making 270-280 rear horse range. You won’t be making that much with your GT40’s. His was a 5 speed. Stock suspension (I bet) and crappy street tires though. The dashboard and drivers seat was all that was left of the interior. Remember ‘94 cobra’s were only running 14 second 1/4 miles. That’s a lot of weight to loose to subtract two seconds. It can be done and I’m sure that it has been done, but probably won’t be a cake walk. With “low lower” and beefy suspension you’re going to have to launch high and drive it to the point of near breakage. It took an additional 127 horsepower from my “baseline” to knock of 2 seconds or so from the 1/8 mile. Mine is setup more as a street car vs race car though.
Honestly it is just for drivability. That is really my only motivation for looking at the stock cam. I have no experience with ford motors and tuning, but will learn.

What would you think the smallest cam duration I could get away with an not constantly battle the tune?

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Honestly it is just for drivability. That is really my only motivation for looking at the stock cam. I have no experience with ford motors and tuning, but will learn.

What would you think the smallest cam duration I could get away with an not constantly battle the tune?

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I’m far from a cam expert but I’ve had a .512 lift 281 duration comp cam in my ‘95 for about ten years now. One time after a trip to the tuner they forgot to put the chip back in. I drove it all the way home twenty or so miles bumper to bumper traffic. I didn’t know it wasn’t in there until they called me when I got home. It ran ok enough “un-tuned” for me not to notice. I was in traffic and didn’t “get on it” though. I’m not recommending my specific cam though because it only has an advertised operating range to 5,550. However it still makes power at 6k.
 
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