Ford Mustang Forums banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,010 Posts
i'm interested in this as well. I'm thinking about getting a 95 amp alternator from PA Performance cuz the stock one is going south. I understand that it is a direct replacement with no mounting bracket modification. Do you need a 'power wire' wit this one as well? If so, which one?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,918 Posts
First5.0 said:
i'm interested in this as well. I'm thinking about getting a 95 amp alternator from PA Performance cuz the stock one is going south. I understand that it is a direct replacement with no mounting bracket modification. Do you need a 'power wire' wit this one as well? If so, which one?
$30 is the difference between the 130A and the 95A. Don't let the bracket modification bother you, it will take 5-10 minutes to do. At least this way if/when you decide to run an electric fan you don't have to upgrade again to a 130A...just food for thought....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,010 Posts
xsvstang said:


$30 is the difference between the 130A and the 95A. Don't let the bracket modification bother you, it will take 5-10 minutes to do. At least this way if/when you decide to run an electric fan you don't have to upgrade again to a 130A...just food for thought....
true. but with the addition of their 'power wire' its another $45.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,918 Posts
First5.0 said:


true. but with the addition of their 'power wire' its another $45.
true....but would you want to run a 95A alternator through 10 gauge wire???? or would you buy the power wire anyways???

"#4 gauge wire kits are recommended on 95 amp upgrades but required when upgrading any 1993 or older vehicle with a 130 amp alternator because the original wiring cannot carry the added current "---PA's website


or....west marine 4 gauge wire for $2.87/ foot and a mega fuse for us cheap people:D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,980 Posts
I've got the 95 amp alt. Only reason I didn't go with the 130 was because I had no cash at the time and didn't want to upgrade to the Power wire.

Mine bolted up fine, no modifications and PA is a great company to go through. It charged great with stock pulleys. I now have a u/d water pump and crank pulley. The lights dim just a bit at idle but I still see over 12 volts at the battery idling with accessories on.

Now I'm thinking about the Power wire because the stock wiring is 12 years old and I figure it can't hurt.

xsvstang - I saw PA has a short version of the Power wire kit for $29, do you know if I can use it on a Mustang or will I have to get the long version?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
hey

i bought a 130 amp alt out here in cali --for my fox body mustang-- i had to do no modifications to the power wire just cut a cable and put a lil female type connector on it so it would fit and i have had no problems with it- he also changed the pully for more charge and my car has no problems at all -- i have pullies and the amprige is way up there without that kit u were talkin about
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,918 Posts
zeus said:
I've got the 95 amp alt. Only reason I didn't go with the 130 was because I had no cash at the time and didn't want to upgrade to the Power wire.

Mine bolted up fine, no modifications and PA is a great company to go through. It charged great with stock pulleys. I now have a u/d water pump and crank pulley. The lights dim just a bit at idle but I still see over 12 volts at the battery idling with accessories on.

Now I'm thinking about the Power wire because the stock wiring is 12 years old and I figure it can't hurt.

xsvstang - I saw PA has a short version of the Power wire kit for $29, do you know if I can use it on a Mustang or will I have to get the long version?
"· Long Kit – this is 109” from end to end including the fuse holder – and made for vehicles where the alternator and starter relay are on opposite sides of the engine compartment

· Short Kit – this is 31” from end to end including the fuse holder – and made for vehicles where the alternator and starter relay are on the same side of the engine compartment"

I bought my 4 gauge wire from West Marine. I bought 6 feet of it. My alternator is on my passenger side and my starter relay is on the driver's side. I took the wire down under the front of my pan and attached it to the same wire protector that goes to the starter. I then followed the negative wire up between the battery and starter relay. I attached the fuse to the side of the coil bracket and then ran a line to the starter relay.
I probably only had about 8-10 inches of cable left over.

There is no way that I could have made 31 inches of cable work even if I took it straight from the alternator to fuse location.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,998 Posts
Re: hey

jaf489361408 said:
i bought a 130 amp alt out here in cali --for my fox body mustang-- i had to do no modifications to the power wire just cut a cable and put a lil female type connector on it so it would fit and i have had no problems with it- he also changed the pully for more charge and my car has no problems at all -- i have pullies and the amprige is way up there without that kit u were talkin about
Sooo your running a 130 amp potential through two 8 gauge wires? Keep an extinguisher handy, when it bursts into flame, remember to shut down the engine, and then aim the dry powder AT the base of the flame. Continue to discharge the extinguisher until all flames are out. Hopefully you have a tleast 5lbs of chemical.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,408 Posts
Actually, Kim, I also ran my 130amp alternator through stock wiring for 2 years before upgrading to a 4 gauge power wire and a fuse, which cost me about 10 bux from Pep Boys. Honestly, if you don't increase your current draw past stock, there is no harm in running a 130amp alternator through the stock wiring.

Chris
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,998 Posts
Sooo did ford,,, and only a handful of them caught on fire mabe a 100 or so. SOOO not every car will burst into flames, BUT, it aint the best idea, the wireing was definatly under-engineered.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,980 Posts
Coupester said:
Actually, Kim, I also ran my 130amp alternator through stock wiring for 2 years before upgrading to a 4 gauge power wire and a fuse, which cost me about 10 bux from Pep Boys. .

Chris
You wouldn't happen to have any details on exactly what you got at Pep Boys would you? I'm a little electrically retarded so I need some help. What amp fuse did you run? All the stuff you need for $10?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,408 Posts
Hey bro, mosey down the electrical aisle at your local Pep Boys. Check out the fuse section. They have 150amp/ 175 amp fuses WITH holders for like 6 bux! Then, mosey down the battery aisle and pick up 2, 4-gauge battery cables with ring terminals on each end. The cables will need to be the appropriate length in order to reach from the B+ stud of your 130 amp alternator, to the battery side of your starter relay. Hope this helps...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,980 Posts
Cool. So I am just connecting the 2 4-gauge cables since one isn't long enough, right? Or does the fuse go inbetween the 2 cables?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,408 Posts
Yes, the fuse goes between the 2, 4-gauge wires. Otherwise, there is no way of attaching the fuse. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Chris
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,980 Posts
Chris- I went to Pep Boys, bought an 18 inch and a 49 inch cable, but I may return them and use a different combination of cables to minimize the excess once I actually take a look at it.

The counter guy said he didn't have any 175 amp fuses and I'd have to go to a car audio store and pay like $35.

I went and did a bit more searching and there was the Mega fuses tucked out of the way. The counter guy was shocked. Only $6, but doesn't appear to have a holder. It just has ring terminals on each end. Will this work? I bought some 1" bolts and nuts to go through it and figured I can just tape the hell out of it or heat shrink the connection if I can find some big enough.

One last thing, once i remove the coil cover thing, is it easy to see which terminal on the solenoid is the battery side? Sorry if thats a retarded question.

Thanks a ton for the tip, saved me a bunch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Coupester said:
Actually, Kim, I also ran my 130amp alternator through stock wiring for 2 years before upgrading to a 4 gauge power wire and a fuse, which cost me about 10 bux from Pep Boys. Honestly, if you don't increase your current draw past stock, there is no harm in running a 130amp alternator through the stock wiring.

Chris
Here is a thought - lets say you are working on your car and the tunes are on - or you go to dinner and leave the lights on for an hour or two - what do you think that 130 amp alternator does when you start the car.... I'd say about 150 amps is what. Instant fire - go grab Kim's extinguisher.

Careful with your "don't ever increase your current draw" theory it may be increased and you don't know it. Just my $0.02

Mike.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top