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If you have not attached the ball joint, lower the control arm some but not all the way to increase the distance between the coils.

If the ball joint is attached to the steering knuckle, try disconnecting the top of the strut, the stabilizer bar end and lower the entire assembly. Keep a jack under the control arm so it drops slowly.

It may help if you can rotate the fork to where there is more space between the coils. I had rented the other version which had hooks on top and bottom (no fork).
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Got the fork out... lots of pry baring and then hammering. Now for the other side.... yay.

I've seen several videos of this procedure. The only one that actually shows how hard it is is the Eric the Car Guy vid.


The other ones just conveniently skip the hard part :)

And the Maximum Motorsports tool helps to a degree, but unless you have aftermarket shorter springs... yeah be prepared for hell.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I did a 94. Not sure if yours is different.
Rented this tool.
Hook the arms as far towards the ends of the spring as you can. Then start compressing.

What makes you think you can not compress it any more?

Did you disconnect the ball joint and the sway bar ends so the arm can drop as far as possible?

How exactly did you get this tool OUT of the spring when you were done?

There's not enough room in the hole at the bottom. And there definitely isn't enough room between the coils.
 

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How exactly did you get this tool OUT of the spring when you were done?

There's not enough room in the hole at the bottom. And there definitely isn't enough room between the coils.
It has been about 5 years since I did this. As noted earlier I did not use the fork type tool which you had. I suggest you follow what you did to get the parts out as it is probably the safest way to do it. Attach the ball joint prior to messing with the compressor.

My recollection was bolt came out through the hole and everything else was between the coils.

When working with springs you need to be prepared. Never put yourself in the path of the spring or control arm should something go wrong. Sorry for lecturing but replacing springs is very dangerous.
 

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The video you posted shows the spring sitting on the arm and the arm supported by a jack with the ball joint attached but the upper strut is not attached.
Would this give you enough clearance between the coils to pull out the compressor parts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I couldn't get the parts out. The hole at the bottom is too small, and there isn't any space in the coils. The only tool I've been able to locate that would probably work has no hooks at all.

The one with dual hooks also wouldn't fit through the bottom hole.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Ok I THINK I have it figured out.

The one with two hooks has bolts that allow you to remove the hook. I can remove the hooks and THEN slide everything out. Going to give that a shot today.
 

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I've had good luck with bolting in strut and spindle then bolting a arm to spindle leave out bolts from k member to a arm then put spring in and Jack up a arm. Trick is to jack up a arm as far inward as possible, in fact I use a bar to set up against a arm then Jack on the bar, more leverage and the jack don't move around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I've given up. The four-hook compressor will not work since the center bolt is too long... basically once it's compressed you can't put the spring in.

I'm going to allow a mechanic to deal with this nightmare and sit back and watch and drink a beer.

Oh and I'll NEVER take these springs out myself again.

What we've learned.

Maximum Motorsports tool = useless on stock springs - You can't get the spring onto the tool (spring is too long)
Four-Hook Compressor = useless on stock springs - The center bolt is too long to put the spring in once it's compressed
Two-Hook Compressor and fork = useless on stock springs - The two-part is too large to come out of the lower control arm hole and too wide to fit through the springs
Side-Hook Compressor = useless on stock springs - The safety pins won't engage as the stock spring is too "thick" also probably wouldn't work anyway since you'd have limited clearance in the tower.


The only compressor I think MIGHT work is this one https://www.amazon.com/OTC-7045B-Front-Spring-Compressor/dp/B000GTJ5I8

But even then I don't know. And I'm not paying 300 bucks to find out. I imagine it will cost less to have someone else do it.
 

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Sorry to see you had issues.
I often stack washers between the hex head on the bolt and the bar which has the hooks on it. This would reduce how far the screw extends beyond the further hook when the spring is compressed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Sorry to see you had issues.
I often stack washers between the hex head on the bolt and the bar which has the hooks on it. This would reduce how far the screw extends beyond the further hook when the spring is compressed.
That's a good idea. I'll see if that's possible. I'm thinking I'd have to stack A LOT of washers though.
 

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I've given up. The four-hook compressor will not work since the center bolt is too long... basically once it's compressed you can't put the spring in.

I'm going to allow a mechanic to deal with this nightmare and sit back and watch and drink a beer.

Oh and I'll NEVER take these springs out myself again.

What we've learned.

Maximum Motorsports tool = useless on stock springs - You can't get the spring onto the tool (spring is too long)
Four-Hook Compressor = useless on stock springs - The center bolt is too long to put the spring in once it's compressed
Two-Hook Compressor and fork = useless on stock springs - The two-part is too large to come out of the lower control arm hole and too wide to fit through the springs
Side-Hook Compressor = useless on stock springs - The safety pins won't engage as the stock spring is too "thick" also probably wouldn't work anyway since you'd have limited clearance in the tower.


The only compressor I think MIGHT work is this one Amazon.com: OTC 7045B Front Coil Spring Compressor: Automotive

But even then I don't know. And I'm not paying 300 bucks to find out. I imagine it will cost less to have someone else do it.
The bar listed on the Amazon site is exactly the style that is shown in the FORD repair manuals. I have used the hooked fork style, with success. You have to cut the long bolt shorter (die grinder works best) and position both compressors in positions that will allow removal once you have the spring positioned. Then use a floor jack positioned on the outer edge at the end of the a-arm, pump up until the spring is engaged in the spring pocket, remove both compressors.
Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Yeah man I finally got it to work with the hook compressor. I used three spacers instead of cutting the main bolt and it worked just fine.

Doing it your way is literally the only way I think it would work. Trying to jack it up from the outside of the arm just doesn't work on stock springs. On the inside it worked but man it was STILL a pain in the ass that I hope I never have to do again.
 
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