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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Replacing the front arms and I cannot get the friggin spring back into the car!

I have a spring compressed, with the compressor tool.

I've tried putting the arm in and jacking up the outside... can't even get the spring anywhere NEAR the perch.

I've tried putting the arm on the spindle and jacking up the INSIDE and I've almost killed myself twice because the jack has slipped out TWICE and the spring shot out.

So what exactly are my options here aside from me having this thing towed somewhere... although I don't even know if I can do that since the damn wheels aren't on the car!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I had the spring compressor on it, but I still couldn't get it compressed enough to lift the arm up into the spindle.

That's why I tried bolting it to the spindle and then lifting the inside of the arm, that caused my jack to slip out twice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Never used a compressor so I'm pretty freaked out by it. How much can you compress it safely?
 

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1990 Ford Mustang LX 351M powered!! Project Cherry Bomb!!
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I actually purchased that same compressor from my local advance auto, worked really well but I had to use a huge stack of washers to get a big enough bite on the spring, I eventually bought a stack of hardened washers and a piece of conduit as well for future use. Stock springs can be a pain to do, took me better part of a week before I cought onto how to do it then the second one I got done in a day. Just have to watch about where you put the hooks as they can be a pain to get out if you set them too far in the perch or in the control arm. Good luck and I'm sure you'll get it all sorted out!! Ta!
 

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I'd bolt up the A-Arms to the K-member first and then lower the A-Arms as far as they'll go. They should swing down far enough to get the stock springs back in place without the spring compressor. I've done this twice in the past year on my 94.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'd bolt up the A-Arms to the K-member first and then lower the A-Arms as far as they'll go. They should swing down far enough to get the stock springs back in place without the spring compressor. I've done this twice in the past year on my 94.
That was my first attempt and I couldn't get it anywhere near close enough. I'm going to try that method with the spring compressor... I took a chunk out of my hand because the spring popped out again... sigh.
 

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That was my first attempt and I couldn't get it anywhere near close enough. I'm going to try that method with the spring compressor... I took a chunk out of my hand because the spring popped out again... sigh.
Please be careful my dude.

You could always trim the springs 1/4 of a coil. It won't lower the car much more than 1/2in., if anything at all.

This would help big time.
 
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If u could afford it coil over a lot easier. I got the tool from maximum motorsports it helped stripped the threads on the spring compressor. Started tieing the coils together used coat hanger the wire for drop ceilings. Heard a few people cut coil from it to get it in. Wish u luck no fun. Did it on my friends car with drop springs did not use a spring compress pry bar had to really lower the control arm to get it in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Did the tool from MM work for you? I've only seen it on aftermarket lowering springs which are a bit shorter.
 

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Yeah it helped a little it catches the spring. That little hump u are trying to get the spring seated it helps guides it. Just gotta compress the spring enough. It is not easy doing that job. I would say cut it. Be careful. Not worth getting injured. Just remember u got 2 of them to do.
 

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I have never had a problem with the compressor from Autozone I sent the link for. You need to attach as close as possible towards the end of the spring but not so close it gets caught between the end of the spring and the. seat in the body.

I have taken out lowering springs without the compressor by using a pry bar. Might also be able to install the same way. Since lowering springs are shorter than OEM I do not think this will work with OEM.

Most important is never point the end of the compressed spring towards you body in case something breaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok... I got the spring in. I had to use both the compressor and the spring tool. With stock springs I don't see any other way.

Now... how exactly do you take the spring tool OUT of the spring?
 

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Assuming you are talking about the tool I noted I used, as long as you did not pinch the end of the hooks between 2 coils. you remove the long screw and take it out piece by piece.

I am not sure what the other tool you are talking about is.
 

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I have always used ratchet straps. I get them at work on crates for free. They're roughly 1.5" wide, no hooks. 4 of them holding two tractor crates together for shipping. Trust me, they are strong. I have often picked up a top crate and the straps bound the bottom with it, we're talking about 4000 lbs worth of weight hanging on 4 straps. Bouncing across a rough parking lot, they don't move. The straps always come off perfectly without having to cut them. Pretty strong. I just put 2 or 3 straps more or less equidistant around the spring comrpessing a little at a time until it's short enough to fit in the pocket where it goes. Jack the control arm up, hook up the strut, remove straps done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Assuming you are talking about the tool I noted I used, as long as you did not pinch the end of the hooks between 2 coils. you remove the long screw and take it out piece by piece.

I am not sure what the other tool you are talking about is.
I was able to take the top hooks out... it was a real pain in the butt but I got them out.

Now I'm trying to remove the bottom "fork" part and it's completely wedged in there.

This is a friggin nightmare.
 
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